Alright i have a camaro z28 convertible. I took it 2 the track the other day and on my best pass i ran a 14.55 in the 1/4 mile. So i was wondering if anybody could help me out with some advice on some easy 2 do mods that can get me into the 13 sec. times:umh:
Yea, a better car.
im guessing u drive a shity import, and by ur other posts ive read u dont know much about anything at all, and ur always bagging on people so how about u F..k off:fu:
Pm a guy on here called enthusiast he owns a camaro and should be able to point you in the right direction.
Why you mad son, it was a joke...
Is your car an automatic or a stick? What mods are already done?
P.S. my shitty import is actually faster than your Z28 in the meantime ;)
Haz none but I have beaten quite a few of these Z28s on the street
thanks ill look him up
its an automatic not by choice though its all i could find at the time:banghead: and it has a cold air intake, and custom exhaust but im not sure what kind it seems 2 be a few different things put together and it was made 2 look like a sleeper car i believe by the previous owner. cus it has the stock tips on it still. their are a few other things like a racing alternator, an underdrive pulley, and i just had the transmision rebuilt.
I also have another question. I was told that chevy engines handle nos very well. is this true? I also have 125,000 miles on the car should i rebuild the engine before messing around with nos?
If you want to go faster at the strip then your auto will serve you
Dont listen to new yorker hes a dumbass and hates domestics, cause his shits slow.
First I think your car probably needs some maintenace. What'd it trap?
First Id reccomend completely going through and freshening up on all the maintenace.
Check Fuel Pressure and make sure your fuel pump is still working good which I suspect it is.
New Wires (I would only recommend the MSD superconductors as the taylors will arc on everything) Route them over the valve covers for ease (thunderracing makes a kit but it comes with taylor wires) Its really hard to route them through the stock location.
Replace ALL FLUIDS, except maybe tranny fluid depending on miles and condition of the tranny.
The mods. Always make sure the car is in great mechanical shape before you mod.
Id start with headers and Y pipe LPP makes polished stainless stuff for real cheap or maybe pacesetters. Go Longtubes or dont bother.
If you want to save money keep the stock catback (also gives it a sleeper look and sound) and run an electric cutout for when your at the strip.
Then an CAI, Id recomend the Moroso or the K&N.
Then check your gears, the autos came with 2.73s and 3.23s. the 2.73s suck for racing. If you drive it on the street alot and dont want to hurt mileage to mcuh id step up to 3:42s out of a 6speed car and if you can Id get them out of a Later LS1 so you get the better diff (I think its Torsen).
You cna check gear ratio by looking at the RPO codes but I have a 6speed so I dont remeber the exact code.
If you are willing to give up a little mileage Id go 3.73s. They work great in an auto car.
Then do a tranny cooler and a higher RPM stall. I think most bolt on guys go with a 2800-3200 rpm stall. This will really help ETs, more than any of your other mods.
Then your gonna need some traction, you can do soem basic rear suspension like Lower control arms and LCA relocation brackets, and comp engineering shock (they are only like 50 bucks a pop).
Then tires. Id reccomend getting two stock 16"s (they can be picked up real cheap) and moutning some drag radials on them for the days at the track. Id reccomend Mickey Tompson ET Street radials, they come in a 255/50/16.
Then finish the rest of the bolt ons so you have a better platform for future mods. I am a big advocate of an electric waterpump for easy of change and the stress removed from the valvetrain.
Then a TB and elbow. Lose the stock rubber intake elbow, and the weak TB some people say it wont help but more air is more air, and while your doing it might as well go with the 58mm.
Then if you plan on camming it later Id leave it alone and start saving for the cam, if you plan to stay stock cam get some Lt4 roller rockers and LT4 valve springs. Do not do 1.6 RRs and stay stock springs.
At this point you can spray it. The lT1 is good for 150 shot but some keep it safe and run a 100 shot.
Wet vs Dry shot is a whole nother story. Their are advocates for both sides. I prefer wet shots.
Or you may want to stay NA, if your ona budget Id go cam only for a while, if you can save go ahead and do heads and cam. But I could write pages on cam selection so we will save that for later.
You will also need tuning I can reccomend some good LT1 tuners if you let me know were you are located. In an auto youll want a tune after the gears for sure and definetly after the TB and converter as it will throw off the tranny. You can drive the headers and intake without the tune for a while but youll be leaving alot of power and economy on the table if you do. Most guys charge a flat rate for the initial tune and a discount price for the retunes if it is small changes like TB or verter or gears.
And heres some videos for fun.
A pretty quick cam only LT1
A pretty quick bolt on Lt1 vs a bolt on Mach 1
Same guys vs cammed 5.slow
I love my LT1 and they can be quick fun cars when maintained and built properly.
If you have anymore questions just let me know
okay first its not nos, thats what ricers call it.
its called Nitrous, or spray amon many others. NOS is a company. If you are talking to knowledgeable F-body guys and say Nos they will prbably laugh at you, just a heads up, and yes the LT1 will handle spray pretty well. You should probably be safe on a 100 to 150 shot. But there is alot more involved than just the kit.
First you need a wideband, then you need to make sure your fuel system is up to the task. Then you need colder plugs I think most are running the NGK tr55s. You also need to do a compression test and make sure all of your cylinders have good compression (and they also need to be consistent I think within 5% is good). Then tuning preferably ona dyno. And dont worry about the mileage if the car is in good shape, I know alot of highmileage guys that are spraying 150, and they arent having problems.
Nitrous like higher mileage LT1s, as in nirtous motors you usually run a little bigger gap in the piston rings so a more loose Lt1 is nno big deal.
Im just not a fan of poor engineering thats all...and my shits definately not slow :thumbs:
Yes your shits slow.
poor engineering. Care to elaborate? Oh let me guess, camaros are poorly engineered. Dont act like miatas dont have their own problems, cause remeber I know quite alot about miatas.
Also dont forget domestic automakers invented many of your favorite import things.
Variable valve timing anyone. Yah I think buick did that first.
No, Fiat first introduced that idea I think in 1964 or 1946 or something like that.
fiat did it first in an automotive application. long before that, it was used in steam engines and aircraft engines:2cents:
Learn something new every day :thumbs:
Wanna have a run? Choose a 2-door I own. It's on like Donkey
Hope you enjoy looking at tail lights from a real car.
Take it to a real racetrack and well see what happens, but regardless theres no point paper racing seeing as we are thousands of miles apart.
Your call on track. Beretta is set-up for Auto-X/road courses, Camaro, obviously straight line. Drifting is easy too though, I just hate changing the damn tires out.
i wouldn't mind a shot at the camaro from a dig once i get some drag radials... if not a roll would be perfect.
You must take me for some kind of idiot....why would i bother racing a car thats considerably faster than mine, KNOWING I would lose. I would most likely shit all over the bereta though especialy on auto-x
Well that sounds like a challenge to me:pop:
You think? :hi:
have u ran teh camaro at the strip?
Not yet. Been busy re-modeling my house and taking care of my son and recording music...Cars have def. taken a back seat, as has the interwebz.
Ill run you satty. I should be able to muster a 14 on a baby shot.:orglaugh:
have u ran urs yet?
i like the "vtec lol" in your avator. i agreed that v tec=lol but boost+vtec=ohh shit
Ive run it on the old motor, I havent done any track racing on the new
motor cause the rears gettin a little loud, so If someone wants to run its
gonna be from a roll until I get the rear in.
Oh and Im not a big fan of VTEC and boost, sure a boosted VTEC car is fun to drive but it also makes tuning a pain in the ass.
its usually the agressive cams that make it a paint to tune. Staying with ITR or CTR cams is the smartest choice imo...
Yah but your also leaving horsepower on the table, its all give and take.
To the OP....
Question...what altitude are you running at because 14.5 seems kinda low if you car is in good running condition (unless you have the 2.73s in the rear). 13.9-14.1 is common for well maintained stock LT1s.
The RPO code for the 3.23 rear end for the autos is GU5...check your door and see if you have that code...if not you got the 2.73s. If you plan on keeping your car a mild build I would definitely step up to higher gears...3.73s (will hurt the gas mileage though) or 3.42s out of a M6 f-body. BUT if you plan on going aggressive with this car don't waste money on parts for the 10bolt. Save the money and get gears when you get a different rear end so you aren't buying the same parts twice. Because when you get some more power or traction the clock is ticking on the 10bolt. They have been known to be trashed at stock power levels with the M6s. Now that being said if you can get a cheap set of 3.42s from a wrecked f-body and either do the work yourself or have it done then by all means grab the 3.42s because it won't cost you much and be good for a decent improvement.
Enthusiast is right. If I were you I would do things in the following order if your goal is 13s.
1) Maintenance...if you are still running the orginal plugs / wires / fuel filter your car is not running nearly at its potential. Btw I run the NGK TR55GPs spark plugs and love them. If you are going to spray it you will want a colder plug...probably a NGK TR6 or something in that neighborhood. Also seafoam is your friend there is a good write up on ls1tech. I have also been using some Taylor 8.2mm Thundervolt wires and haven't had any arc'ing problems with them and love them. I do know that it is hit or miss when using Taylor especially with the 8mm Spiro-pro wires...they either work very well or arc. Also changing the spark plugs on an LT1 f-body, especially with the stock exhaust manifold, is a complete PITA. Driver's side isn't too bad but the passenger side is a nightmare. I will never change these plugs and wires again myself until I am installing my headers when everything is out of the way and I can reach everything easily.
2) The fast way to drop that time condsiderably on an auto is a high stall torque convertor. You get something with over a 3k stall and some DRs and you can expect to drop at least 5 tenths off the quarter (stock torque convertor in the autos is something like a 1800 stall). However high stall + sticky tires = not good for the health of the rear. And for the sake of your trans get another trans cooler if running a higher stall. You also may need a tune for the convertor as some cars run into whats called stall wall when the convertor is switched.
3) Drag radials. My car is pretty close to stock (only a few mods) and I have traction problems on street tires. As it is on the street if am at a dead stop and floor it (not power braking) I spin all the way through 1st and well into 2nd (usually hooks finally around the 3-4k mark). This is with the 3.23 gears though and with relatively new (<2000 miles) yokohama s.drive 275/40ZR17s. My old BFGs were just as bad for this.
4) LT1s love long tube headers. Like said above either LPP or Pacesetter. Both are very reasonably priced and should net you anywhere from 20-30rwhp (ran with an ory or high flow cats).
Those four things will definitely get you pretty well into the 13s especially if your car needs some of the maintenance done to it (if that is the original fuel filter then changing this will be the cheapest horsepower you can buy). If you do add a stall convertor definitely get the DRs too as otherwise you will just be spinning a lot off the line.
So to recap:
1) Tune-up = ?? $ [?]
2) higher stall torque convertor = ~$500 [.3 - .5 tenths]
3) Drag Radials = $ depends on brand [.1 - .3 tenths]
4) Long Tube headers = ~$500 depending on brand. [.1-.3 tenths]
As far as spraying I agree with enthusiast. Some people spray as much as a 200 on the stock bottom end but I wouldn't try that for any length of time as that is asking from problems. A lot of people say 150 is ok but I would stay around a 100 shot if the motor is in good condition and you want to be safe with it. Don't skimp on the safety equipment though. Just because the system will work without it doesn't mean its smart to it. Things like a window switch, a WOT switch, bottle heater, and all the other goodies will make sure you can spray until your hearts content.
On a built bottom end you can spray these things all day with big shots and multi-stages. (over a 300 shot is common on the built for spray motors). I have a friend who ran low 10's regularly in his 1993 z28 (383 stroker + 300 shot).
Hope this helps and have fun going fast. You said the trans was built so if you already have high stall torque convertor in it I would say something isn't running right unless you:
a) are blowing the tires off in puffs of white smoke (eg a really bad 60')
b) at a much higher altitude
c) car needs maintenance