Something fun & intresting. My project.
I've been working on this for awhile and havnt gotten much done. A little
work here, a little work there. A little money here, run out of money
there. I have been working on this car since fall of 2001. Up until about 8
months ago, I was just going to throw some parts its way and call it quits.
I then decided this car is somethin' special and I tore the front down and
stripped it's drivetrain for alot of work to make this car what I want and
have always wanted. It had sat up in my driveway for the past couple years,
and in another driveway long years before that.
A little history:
This car has been in the family since new. No one in my family that had this car (6 different owners in the family) liked it. Well, that's all changed and it's going to get TLC.
Orginally it had a 225CID slant 6, 3 speed auto transmission, 7.25 "open gear" rear. The first 225 blew at a little over 100K. Second went from then to it's currect mileage: 140K.
What I'm going to change...The only thing that will be restored to orginal in this car is the interior...all but the custom under-dash console that will house the CD player and aftermarket gauges. Slant 6, gone. In with a 383. Auto transmission, gone, in with a A-833. 7.25 rear, gone, in with a 8.75 rear. 3.55:1 is going to be my first set of gears I'll try out. Enough talking...here are some pictures.
This will serve as the "before" picture. It was taken right after i got the brakes working, engine running, and alot of washing.
Here is a picture of the slant 6. The second one. After I had done a good deal of work on it. Before I had decided to scrap it.
Here is the front end striped. Had to sand, repair, do some basic body work, paint.
Here is the engine bay after work had been done.
Needed to swap the /6 K-member for a V-8 k-member. Here is what it looked like when I first pulled it from a junkyard.
Here it is cleaned, prepped, and painted.
Then the front was assembled...
Then the k-member was installed.
Next i'll be getting the engine, mounts & brackets, oil pan, and I'll be dropping in the engine.
That's about it for now. I will be doing lots of work and keep this thread updated with new information and pictures. I hope ya'll enjoy watching my project. If you have any suggestions, let me know.
EDIT: And oh yeah, almost forgot. Here is what I want it to become:
Thats a nice project Dodge. I don't really know what kinda car that is, but it looks like a good projeck. Well stick to it and don't give up.I'd love to see the end results.
Thanks. 1967 Dodge Coronet 440, Yes, it is. I will. You will.
Looks like a great project! I bet that DodgeRida67 comes from the 1967 Dodge. :laughing: Looks like it'll take a bit of work but it will look great! Cant wait to see when its done! :thumbs:
Well, Since I'm converting the 3 speed auto to the A-833 4 speed manual, I'll need to make a few changes. Obviously, the pedals are going to be changed. Off with the old. Steering colum? Took it out to do my best to make it look like the brand that orginally came with a 4 speed.
I'm thinking of painting the gauge pointers so they will glow in the dark. But then I think maybe they won't show too good when the panel is lit.
So far I've pretty much just gotten the front end somewhat fixed to what I want it to be. Here is a shot.
My engine lift is anxiously waiting...I'll explain why below.
I'm going to go (hopefully) and order my rebuilt 383 from Recon Saturday if all goes well. I'm going to have it built with a stock cam. They will custom build this engine for me, but I'm going with a stocker. 2 week wait and then I'll have it. Fine day that is going to be.
Here are some parts awaiting the 383.
Chrome Valve Covers, Plug wires, Plugs, Rotor, Distributor Cap, Distributor, Alternator, Coil, Coil Bracket, Water Pump, Water Outlet, Thermostat, Starter. Chrome breather. (Going to need another with a hose hookup on it for PCV)
Nice project! other than the '67 Barracuda fastback, the Coronet 440 is my favorite '60s Chrysler product. I love the sculpting on the side, and the relatively simple grille area. A friend in high school had one the same color as yours is, all show ready with a 383, built TorqueFlite 727 automatic, lowered overlarger than stock magnum 500s. Stunning car.
Thanks. I'm going to paint it scotch red probably. I believe that color came on road runners. Not certain there because I got that color and info from a guy at a local car show. But... I was debating over the good ol' magnum 500's or a set of torque thrust wheels. I find it to be a hard decision. I am leaning more towards torque thrust. My favorite 60s chrysler product is the '68 Coronet but I love what I got just as well. I have alot of work ahead of me. Thank you for your intrest in it. :thumbs:
Hope your thought is red exterior and scotch interior. My personel preference, especially for that car. :2cents: Or red on red.
Black interior, Red Exterior, all the stock chrome, full chrome torq thrust D wheels, ah, that's it.
Damn ChrisV, the 67 Dodge Cornet was a brand new car when you were in highschool :laughing: . No just ribbing yah. Yeah keep up the project Dodge.
im diggin the car... keep up the good work
Yeah, 'cause I was in high school when I was 4. Told you i was smart... :hi:
Sounds awesome Dodge! Keep it up! :thumbs:
Nice work so far, Dodge. Keep the pics and updates coming :clap:
Geez. I better give an update now. Well... I was going to order the engine today, but being it is apparently a holiday ( :hi: ) I wasn't able to get that in order today. Tomorrow morning hopefully. I'll post tomorrow to give a yay or nay on the ordering. Good news is Recon had one in the warehouse, and all I'm going to have to wait is 1-4 days on delivery. If anyone grabs it before I do tomorrow morning... 2-3 week wait. You'll be hearing from me tomorrow.
Well. Engine is a no-go until next weekend. Anyway, I stripped out the
interior tonight. New floor pans in the front will go in, and a new trans
tunnel. Also for the interior, upon assembly, there will be new visiors
going in, seat upholstry, seat belts, carpet, weather-stripping,
This is the chrome that was stripped from the interior.
I wasn't happy with the way the alternator was looking at me. I painted it,
and wow, it's nearly chrome quality.
Stripped the rear underside today. Rear (7 1/4, will be replaces with 8
3/4), Leaf springs, Shocks, Gas tank.
Today, removed the doors, hinges, locks, handles, and removed upholstery
off seats. Tomorrow, (hopefully) I'll be removing trim, lettering,
taillights, ect, to start the paint prep process. Maybe Also start prepping
Looks great Dodge! Keep it up! :thumbs:
Well, the engine from Recon is out. In a few days it's off to a junkyard to
grab me and 383 and strip it down to a bare block with only the mains on it
and bring it home. To the machine shop, then to my shop and I'm going to
build it from there.
So far I've gotten the interior painted and the leaf springs painted. I'll post pictures when I get batteries for my digicam.
This sounds like it's an awesome project! I can't wait for an update. I know the finished project will be a big reward! :thumbs:
DR you are making something really awesome! Keep it up!
I went to the junkyard today and pulled a 383 out of a fury & sat it on the ground. Tomorrow they will move junk out of the way and put the engine in my truck. I'll bring it home and disassemble it. Pictures coming soon...
Here is the bad boy.
The unpainted/rusty sections will be cut out and patches welded in. Also
part of the trans tunnel will be cut out and one for a 4-speed will be
This is the condition of the engine as of now. Next week it will be tanked and cleaned and then taken to the machine shop.
Most likely setup:
Pistons: KB Hyperuetectic floating pin
Rods: Eagle Forged stage I 700HP rating
Bore: Hopefuly, 4.27"
Crank: Forged steel crank as was in it. From crank kit...
Rod bolts: ARP
Wrist pins: ( you should know this) Full Floating
Cam & intake: Performer RPM idle - 5,500RPM matched cam, lifters, & intake
Carb: Holley 4160 750 CFM
New valve guilds, ground seats, milled heads (516) new steel valves, new keepers, maybe keep old retainers. New valve springs. New oil pump. New rockers, rocker shafts and of course new pushrods.
We'll see how well I stick to this...
Keep it up DR! :thumbs:
My god its looking awesome dude. I wish I had the space and money to attempt something like this.
The interior of you car looks like mine.. :laughing:
Nice work DR!
Cam kit arived last night. :smoke:
Sorry, I just cant sacrifice a smooth idle. This is as wild (yikes, totally mild) as I will go with a cam in this engine.
I'll be following the setup for this power curve.
I will be taking the engine block either today or tomorrow to the machine shop. There it will be...
Cam bearings removed.
Cylinders Bored & Honed (.020 - .030, hopefully .020)
New cam bearings installed.
When it gets home after that, I'll take pictures and ya'll can watch me build this bad boy. When I get it built I'll have sound clips... Open headers baby! I'm also going to deminstrait the importance of a clean engine build. 100% clean, obsessive compulsive clean and beyond.
Well, this is something real engine builders do. Bearing & Journal Prep.
Most people don't do these sort of things. But... most people don't do work like I do. Chamfering provides for better oiling and taking out the possibilty of that hole to cut and scar bearing/journal surfices. I've pulled engines apart before that had scared journals and that sharp edge on these holes were cleary the cause. On top of that, small chunks of metal shavings from this happening cause even more wear to bearing & journal.
Cam Bearing out of the box. Notice the oil hole is not chamfered. Most people would install it like this but...
...it only takes about 1 minute of work to do this if you know how to do it.
Basically, all you do to do this is take a very sharp pocket knife and cut the sharp edge with the backside of the knife. With a little practice it's easy to do.
I have an extra touch though. I don't stop there. Once it has been chamfered, I finish off the chamfer with a pencil. I take a pencil and stick the cone end in the hole and twist the pencil to smooth out the chamfer. That was a secret that only I used but... thought I'd share.
Now for the holes in the cam journal. Can't leave them out.
Before. Note the sharp cut hole. 90 degree edge.
Now after about a minute it's like this.
The process is simple. I used a round file, cut the chamfer. Used to pocket knife to smooth that out. Follow it up by polishing the journal.
Taking extra steps like these during an engine build means a great engine that will last for many many miles. This will be done to every bearing and journal. Crank & Cam.
Jeez. You know a lot DR! Good Luck!
I'd like to announce something. Something pretty big I'm going to do to
this motor. There has been alot of talk about it around these forums but no
one seems to have seen it used outside of movies. You should know what I'm
talking about now. I'm going mild, 50-100HP shot but I'm probably going to
make this engine build to handle way more. I'm not going to use NOS
(Holley's setup which seems to be popular) probably but rather Edelbrock's
setup. You know, since the rest of the air/fuel setup is going to be
Edelbrock. Cam, Intake, Carburetor. Approx. 480HP+ I'll call it passing
You know, just because your nitrous kit says Edelbrock does'nt mean its any less ricier than one that says NoS... :laughing:
Sounds sweet DR! :thumbs:
Dodgerider do you have to tap the orginal fuel line for another fuel line that goes into a solenoid(on the picture there is 2 solenoids, nitrous, fuel) so that the nitrous and fuel can both be injected into the intake?
My ride couldn't get any farther from ricey... :mrgreen:
DR I have a couple of questions.
The last time I checked your profile it said you were 16. Where did you learn all of this? Where did you get all of this space? How do you find time to do these things if you are 16 and (theoretically) go to high school? And, most importantly, where the hell are you getting all the money to do this?
I have just always wondered this. :thumbs:
Where did I learn all this... Well, I've had hands on since 8 and have been
doing it solo since about 11. I remember the first repair I did solo was
replace a Powersteering Pump on a Ford 302 when I was about 11.
Space... well I don't have ALOT of space. 484 Square foot shop that I build two summers ago.
Time? I spend every second of my free time on it.
Money? Well... :wink2: Don't worry about that one.
ANYWAY. The engine was dropped off a couple hours ago at a machine shop. Ordered the pistons a little while ago.
lemme guess, prostitution! Am I right?
Just kidding man, I know you probably have some perfectly legal way of selling your body on street corners.
Im just messin with ya man, don't get hurt! :laughing:
Naw... far to simple. It has got to be drugs. He probly runs strip clubs, is a pimp, and sells drugs. Am I right DR? :laughing:
Pistons Arived today.
DR what is the compression ratio of thoes? Did you install them yet? DO you have to take the oil pan off and then take the rods out and then the piston and then install them?
While waiting on the block to come back from the machine shop... Took down
the headliner today.
No, no rust here. Glue and rust colored primer...
When building an engine, cleanliness is beyond what I can stress in
I first washed the crank about 2 weeks ago. Today I washed it again, only difference this time is I went through the "cleaned" oil holes with cleaning brushes.
There is a hollow in the outer-most journals on either end. It looked real clean after the first wash. Today when washing again, I used a cleaning brush on it. Look what I pulled out of what looked to be a clean hole bored in this sucker.
I know, right? After it comes back from the machine shop, it will be cleaned yet again, measurements will be made, cleaned again, bagged, and will await final assembly. That is a total of 4 washings.
After it is cleaned, I dry it off and then spray WD-40 to it and stand it up on end, on it's flange.
What the hell is on that crankshaft. It looks like you've been rolling it in the mud.. I surley hope you are'nt telling us that all of that dirt and gunk came out of the oil holes?
Got the block back from the machine shop. It has been Tanked, Bored, Honed.
Once I get the rotating assembly ready, I'll use it to check deck
clearance. Send the block back for 0 deck clearance. Anyway, I painted it
Sure it came out of the hole. On the SECOND wash with a brush made for cleaning the holes in the crank.
Wow, that is a lot of dirt and crap out of a couple holes. I'm lovin' the looks and sounds of the project, cant wait to see and read more about the progess and definately the end product. Good job and keep up the good work. :thumbs: Thats a great car in any shape.
I threw this thign togethor to see what it would look like.
As you can see, the waterpump/housing is black. Not something Mopeople really do. Also the timing cover is black. Again, black in the front usually isn't done. Atleast I have never seen it. I think it looks great, however. I guess you can tell by this that... I can't wait. :mrgreen:
Yeah that stuff really needs to be chromed or painted silver. The Black, Red, and Silver just kinda makes the engine look funny. What kinda engine is that anywhos a 440 Wedge or a 426 Hemi :hi: ?
Looks great DR! Keep it coming! :thumbs:
It's a Hemi. Can't you tell? The spark plugs are a huge hint. :laughing:
Nah, it's a 383. Now it's a 388 due to boring. I'm going out there now to take all that junk off.
So you don't have to muck around with getting the valley cover machined, would it be better to look for a piston with a taller comp height, rather than decking the block? Or even longer rods if the clearance permits?
Whoops, just saw you have new pistons already. :oops:
That would work out but, finding a piston that's already on the market and available to meet your every specification gets hard to do. This is as close to what I wanted as I could find. Getting a longer rod is pretty much out of the question, though, changing a rod and only a rod. I find this to be the best route.
you may have said it before, but i was wondering what color it's going to
end up? are you going to paint the engine compartment body color or leave
it black? just curious...
Hey your ride is very interesting. after seeing your thread, I asked my dad
wha his first car was. ya know what he said?? He told me " well gosh, it
was a 1966 Dodge Coronet, Black with Black interior. I bought it used in 77
and had it for about 15 years. Then I had to get rid of it because Your
mom's dad sazid i had to get rid of it if i was going to marry youyr mom.
Just out of curiosity, why are you putting a 383 in a car that should either have a 440 or 426?
A good many reasons, actually. First of all I love 383s, and they make
impressive torque numbers. To rule out a Hemi, they would run me about
12-14 grand. Easy rule-out there. On the 440 option, there are not any 440
blocks around in my neck of the woods.
EDIT: 335HP stock and I BELIEVE (and i'm very foggy on this) 425lb-ft torque stock.
EDIT: Also, 383 2 or 4BBL was an option for this car. Big Blocks and B-bodies rock!
I believe 383s will out run a 440 any day.
Besides, the 383's looking sweeet!! :thumbs:
I like to polish mains and cam girdles before putting in any bearings.
Extra steps like these make an engine build a quality engine build.
Do the two-bolt caps cause grief on these engines when they are pushing higher power?
Well lets see. Hemi's use 4-bolt mains. However I'd say they work out fine.
I always thought most big block V8's had 4 bolt main caps. I guess not.. I still say you should have forked over for the 426. I mean building it from a salvaged 426 block could'nt have been that expensive. I've seen performance 350's and 427's built for cheaper than 11-12K.
As soon as you find a useable 426 hemi out of a salvage yard, give me a call.
You could probaby find a remanufactured block for $2800. What kinda DodgeRida would you be without a Hemi? A very none Dodgey one I'll tell you that much.
A dodgey dodgerida... :orglaugh: Good one. :clap:
By reman block I guess you mean fully machined. I doubt you could build a 426 hemi for under $10,000. I've never built a Hemi so I wouldn't know. You rear an interesting point however, I'll look into it and get back on the pros and cons of that thought with a price tag on it.
No I'm chocking your chain. I have'nt seen a 426 shortblock for under $6000. The cheapest one I've ever seen was this wrecked 1970 'Cuda Convertible. I'm not sure if it was an all matching numbers 426 or a remanufactured one. Eitherway the car had to be worth $100,000+ in the condition it was before he hit a concrete barrier and flipped it a couple of times(Concrete always wins). He was selling the engine engine for $8000. I felt bad for him, especially when they told me there were only 15 of those Cudas made. :ohcrap:
I'm thinking of going with theses puppies.
Can anyone photoshop them for me?
Yeah, now that, that looks smooth. I think I'm going to go with those.
Thank you for doing that. I really appreciate it. :thumbs:
You're welcome. The pic I started with was off-white, and already had that hood/scoop combo on it, which (other than the big text) I really like on those cars.
Nice job Chris! You are certainly a man with many talents!
Yeah it looks good with those wheels, but since this is a Resto-Mod project I think the car would fancy a larger wheel.
me to. So here's that look:
And another, slightly different angle...
That does look good with bigger wheels but I'm going to go with the 14s.
Thanks for the suggestions.
What do you think I should do with the hood ChrisV? I think a black hood would look good, but, I think some sort of hood scoop or something would be good looking. Maybe not even a hood scoop, I don't really want to make a funtional one anyway. Just something up there to make it look nice...
I think that both set of wheels would look great on the car but if your going for a more 'old school' look then the first ones are better, just my opinion. I think the hood (black) on the one in the photo looks pretty good and matches the look of the car.
Keep working dude, cant wait to see the updates!
I love the look of the bigger rims on it, but with the 14's you could put some more meat on the tires and roast them longer :hi:
Keep us posted man! Looks like a great project, your lucky. I plan to restore a 1988 Trans Am sometime in the near future.
I've decided my next moves need to be finish up this engine 100%, set it
aside, gather the rest of the drivetrain and build it. Replace the
floorpans that need replacing, along with the tranny hump for the 4-speed,
rustproof the undercarriage, install the rear so I'll have a roller, primer
the entire car minus the undercarriage (and of course take care of the body
work), paint the engine bay and hood black, paint the rest of the car the
shade of red I want, drop in the engine, tranny, have my driveshaft work
done, install the interior along with the doors, trunk lid, hood, and all
the other craploads of things to put back. It will pretty much be done then
aside from about 1 million little details. WOW, sounds so easy when I say
it that way. Anyway I think that's the route I'll try and take from here on
Anyway, update. I took out the glass... the front windshield will have to be replaced as it has sun damage (?). White around the bottem edge and a little ways along the bottem of the sides.
Pretty much stripped now... Got alot to work with. :drool: Fun, fun, fun.
So! Let me state some of the mods I'll probably be doing. First off, underdash "console" I'm going to build. Just a carpeted box from the bottem of the dash down to the tranny hump that will house the CD player and 3 gauges (volts, water temp, oil pressure). Next we have The "chrome" runners taken off. Other than that, the trim that went in the "dent" of the trunklid will be taken out, and I will just put the letters that was on the trim in there, spaced out just like the ones on the front to spell "D o d g e." Speaking of that, all the emblems & lettering will be glued on and the holes that were there before welded up. Then we have the hood & engine conpartment. Both black, not sure what gloss yes. But... hood scoop as well. I'm thinking of one of these...
http://www.paddockparts.com/Paddock/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=1048&gif t=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D4%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D%2CDodge%2FPly mouth&1=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D50%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D0%2CDodge%2FPly mouth%20Body%20Parts&mscssid=E460DADD60D8413681FC4E75CE29A662
I think that covers the mods. This is it for now...
Good luck DR! You probley know all of this, but they did a show about how to replace floor panels on "Trucks!" on Spike last weekend. It was really great, you may want to check their site or something if you need help with the floor. Good luck! :thumbs:
Keep the updates coming man :thumbs:
I got the rotating assembly ready to go. Crank ground .010/.010, rods
resized, new rod bolts, pistons & rods assembled, completely balanced.
Gapped & slipped on the moly piston rings and washed the crank one final
time (no telling how many times this makes that I've washed that
I did a mock-up and took deck clearance measurements. Now I just need to take the block to have it decked and have the cam bearings popped in and I'll build the shortblock.
I hope I'm around here long enough to see the completed version.
Keep up the good work, dodge!
BTW = what are your plans for it after it's finished? Weekend joy-ride? And how does a build up car like this play into your insurance?
Just a cruiser. Probably will take it on a few trips to Florida in the
summer time. Spring break Miami trip, maybe. :hi:
It doesn't play into insurance... all they know about the car is what the VIN number tells them, and the VIN number doesn't change.
you know, do you think it'll see less than 5000 miles a year, and can you
say it's kept in a locked garage? If you can, you can use something like
Hagerty specialty insurance company. they insure street rods and customs,
at statted value, for dirt cheap, including cars in progress and under
construction. my full coverage insurance for the Fiat for a year at $5k
stated falue is $138! My Comet project is an in progress street rod, and
they know about every custom trick being done. At a stated value of $10k,
the annual cost is $200 for insurance. You might want to check them out
(while this sounds like an ad, it's really meant to help out a fellow forum
member). I did a quick example quote, and if you put a $10k value on your
car, and listed it as modified, at your approximate age and location, the
quote is still under $500 a year for full coverage with no deductible.
Would they cover cars you see at Barret Jackson or other auctions? Most companies will insure for the stated value of the car back in orginal condition, but a $4000 vette sells for a lot more at auctions. A friend got rid of his old ferrari because he couldnt insure it for enoguh to cover what he actualy spent on it.
Did you follow the link? They insure modified cars that HAVE no "original"
value, and they insure for "agreed value" which is usually what it costs to
replace the car in the condition it's in.
Click on the links in here: http://www.hagerty.com/vehicle_insure.asp
Lookin real good DR. Keep it up man. Can't wait to see it finished. Hopefully you'll be able to help me out with my project...once I buy it and get started that is... :mrgreen:
I can't wait to get this short block togethor. I may get the block back and do it this weekend. Yeah right, I might as well dream about it.
Still waiting on that machine work. Get it today, maybe? Anyway, using the
*torque curve* provided by Edelbrock (same exact setup) I plotted the
horsepower curve. Well, redid the whole thing. What can I say, I don't like
the horsepower curve, but I love the torque curve. Oh well. I suppose a
170HP gain over a span of 2,500RPMs is okay, BUT - starting at 130HP @
2,000RPMs isn't that great for the cam chosen. For this I could have gotten
a big cam to produce this 130HP @ 2,000RPMs but gain HUGE on the top end.
But... I'd sacrife the idle quality and I hate that in street cars so much
so that I won't even drive them. I expect a good pull from 3,500 -
4,500RPMs. Narrow, but that's just the maximum I'm talking about. So
basically the torque I like, and the horsepower is livable.
Here is a comparison to stock (in red).
hey...at least it's more through the RPM range. And, "You drive torque,
your buy horsepower." At least that is what I've learned over the last 25
Hey DodgeRida, I just found this thread and I have to say after reading it from start to finish, you made me want to get out in my garage and rebuild a car of my own! If only I had a suitable car, the know-how and the money. unfortunately, I have none of the three. :doh: Ha. I find it hardest to believe you're younger than me and I'm a 19 year old. I wish you the best of luck and the ride is coming along great! Keep the updates coming!
Hey, DodgeRida have you gotten the engine and everything and put it together yet? Havent seen any new updates and i'm kinda curious.
WOW! You are one of the most knowledgeable people I have ever heard of. It's amazing what your doin here, keep it up man! :driving: :clap:
Hey DodgeRida, how come you havent given us anymore updates lately? How is the project coming along now, have you gotten the engine and everything?
Although I am fond of the 383, and have owned 4 383 cars in the past, it is
a bit much to say that 383's will smoke 440 as a general rule. First the
basic numbers show they don't put out as much torque and HP and two if you
look at the link below out of the top 20 fastest factory muscle cars 9 were
either a 440-6 or a hemi. The 383 is a great motor that has the capability
of running very strong numbers but all things equal, the 440 will win that
conversation most of the time. IMHO
50 Fastest Muscle Cars (http://www.musclecarclub.com/musclecars/general/musclecars-50fast.shtml)
Now as for your project it looks like you are doing a great job and when it finished you should have a sharp potent musclecar. Lots of hard work going into that project. Good Luck!! :thumbs:
Yeah still waiting on that block to be finished up. Had trouble with the cam bearings yesterday so I had to go see about it. Bearing bore in the very back was .005 too small. It was honed. Tomorrow if it went ok and there was no other trouble and the cam now is turning freely I'll pick it up.
Lets just hope it works this time :laughing:
Haha alright, good luck. It just seemed like you forgot to keep us updated, its been awhile.
Short block is pretty much together. A lot went on with this, so I'll post
more later tonight as I need to leave here at 6:15 P.M. Stories and
pictures, that is.
That shortblock is looking real good. In case I missed it are those pistons
'0' deck? What brand? As good as that looks you would almost hate to start
it. (Almost :laughing: )
KB's. TDC located at approx. 0.00 on all cylinders.
Nevermind the stories and pictures for now. All I got to say is I'm having to re-order #1 piston so everything awaits on that.
Have you gotten the parts you needed and made any more progress?
I have been very busy, so no, I have not. Hopefully, sometime next month I'll finish up the shortblock and take it from there.
much respect, that's astonishing someone the same age as me is doin' such a
rebuild, very very nice car, i'm well and truely amazed!
you've got me motivated to go out, buy a valiant and get to work!
that looks like one helluva prject there many, lota work, but awesome reward, i still think you should add some chrome trim to it.
*Sniffs around for updates*
LOL ... nicely done!!
*nudges thread to top*
DODGY! We're sick of the same information, update us!