I just recently got ahold of a 1967 Grand Prix for a relatively low price.
Of course the car has sat for 10 years and last ran 4 years ago. But it's
definitely restorable and I look forward to getting this project going. I
just would like to hear the motor run before I start ripping everything
First off the ignition switch itself is gone so until I get a new one I'm hotwiring it, I just wanna hear the motor run.
The problem - I've replaced just about everything in the ignition category and I'm still not getting any spark at all. Coil, points, condenser, coil wire. The plugs and wires and in good shape. I got the car from a friend. It last ran, like I said, about 4 years ago and according to him and several others it actually ran pretty good.
I did hook up a test light and I'm getting 12v to the coil when the ignition is on and cranking. No spark. Replaced the coil twice now. No spark. Put in new points and set them. No spark. New condenser. No spark. I was really excited about just hearing this car run before I begin tearing everything apart and restoring it and it's killing my morale. Any ideas? Something I'm missing? I'm not real familiar with points type ignitions, so bear with me.
Let me add this, because I suppose I could be doing something wrong when hotwiring the car.
When I go to start it, I am taking a wire that has a pig tail on the end ( one end split into 3 wires) one wire first goes to the battery, then I stick one in the ignition, then one to the solenoid and she cranks. There IS a slot for a second ignition, not sure what that's all about but I've tried sticking a wire in there as opposed to the first ignition slot, I've also tried using both of them at the same time. No spark in any case.
When you hotwire it, is the starter turning over? If so, the ignition switch bypass is obviously working.
Oh yeah. It cranks real nicely.
Ok, I lied. I'm really a 5'7" brunette female underwear model, 110 lbs, 34C
creamers with a nice booty. Oh, I just LOVE meeting guys from the internet
that know about cars. Anyone got an clue whats wrong with mine? :mrgreen:
You know if that was true, there would probably be 10x more people here to help.
Haha i jave to agree :orglaugh:
go back to the basics, dude. make sure the dist is actually turning, for one. take a multimeter or test light and make sure the points are closing all the way when they get to the flat. sometimes the point gap needs to be closed up a little from the manufacturer's specs. make sure the rotor is good. if you have to, turn the motor over slowly by hand and verify that everything is timed right. if the coil has 12V when the point cam is on a flat, then it should fire the coil. how are you checking for spark?
By manipulating the wires, can you get it to a stage where the dash lights
up, but the starter doesn't try to turn over? This is the on position, and
the state the ignition switch (or in this case, loose wires) must be in
once the engine is running. You need to get to this point, then fire the
starter like you've been doing.
If you can do that, and still don't get spark, then it's definitely not the ignition switch.
Yeah, we went and did the whole top dead center stuff. Set the points that way. I guess I could buy a new rotor, but this one doesn't look bad at all. I'm checking for spark by sticking a screwdriver in one end (the right end, hehe) of the coil wire, spark plug wires and laying it close to a solid piece of iron on the engine.
Yeah, I can get the dash to light up without cranking it. That happens when
I have one end in the battery slot, one in the ignition slot. To fire it, I
stick another end (pigtail) into the solenoid slot and she cranks, but no
fire. It's really driving me nuts.
Oh I should note in response to Dodger, that yeah the dist. is definitely turning. Checked that out with the cap off when I was turning the motor by hand to get to TDC.
that method leaves a lot of room for failure. do you have access to a timing light? spark testers can be found at chain parts stores for like $5 if i recall correctly. what i'm saying is that it's a very simple system. you can run 2 jumper wires and trigger the coil to check spark, and if you use a test light across the coil wires, you can turn it over slowly and actually see when the coil is being energized...
Will try that, thanks. :thumbs:
I got ahold of an old Motor Manual from 67 and I followed the instructions
in there. It said to check power to the coil with a test light, blah blah
blah like we've already discussed. All that was good. The new information I
got was this: Hook your test light up to the distributor terminal, slowly
spin the motor manually or by cranking and make sure when the distributor
cam allows the points to close, the light should be OFF. If not, replace
your points. Replace? WTF, I just bought them! So what it was - the points
weren't quite closing 100% and it was pretty hard to see, we're talking
maybe .005 or .010 of an inch. But I played around with them and bam, fired
right up. Unreal. I had no idea how touchy points systems could be, so I'm
gonna end it all and throw a HEI unit in eventually.
Like I said, I just wanted to hear it run before I ripped it apart for several reasons. Morale, haha, and I wanted to know that it was in good running condition before hand so when I put it back together it should all be good. Yeah right. Haha. But man! It sounded pretty good! Sounds like it has some balls to it. After sitting for the majority of the past 10 years and last ran 4 years ago and it fired right up and idled on that old ass gas! Wow. So I was a happy man. :smoke:
Thanks guys for the help. I think I'll be hanging around here for awhile, y'all seem like a good group of people. :thumbs:
Glad ot worked out, and yes, everybody here is nice except for Gay-J :thumbs: :doh:
go to electronic ignition, dude. i switched after i fought w/ my points on
the coronet on and off for 3 days. turned out the points were binding
SOMETIMES. i would check it out, and it'd seem ok. start it, go 2 feet,
die. over and over. i finally caught it... :banghead:
:fu: <--- to points ignition
:fu: :fu: <----to dual points...