Alright heres what happened. Im 14 and have a 69 mustang fastback with a 302 2barrel. I took it to the end of my block one day and back shut it off tried to turn it on a day later and nothing happened :cussing: From then on i changed the intake to a torker 2 changed spark twice and still nothing. 2 month and $200 dollars later i find the problem....broken voltage regulator :banghead: I was just to quick to upgrade i guess. So i changed the intake back to iron, put in new regulator set timing a 0 tdc of compression strokeafter about an hour of getting all the silicone and everything togethor i go and crank it an nothing happens :cry: does anyone know a good way to go through all the wires to check and see if they are good?
Check the basics, an engine needs three things:
once you know which one is missing let us know then we can help.
Do you have a multimeter?
Is the dizzy points type?
You have probably done the basics, but double check these things:
the spark plugs are gapped properly and there is no cracks in the porcelain;
the leads from the dizzy are connected to the right plugs and the ends of the leads are not corroded;
the contacts (electrodes) inside the dizzy cap have been cleaned of any silver oxide;
the points have a gap approximately the thickness of a hacksaw blade when at maxiumum opening and the points themselves are clean;
the rotor button sweep arm has a clean leading edge;
a side issue make sure the rubbing block of the points has a smear of grease between it and the rotor lobes;
is there +ve 12 volts on the coil +ve when you turn the key to ign without starting the engine?;
:- if so, isolate the battery -ve, disconnect the -ve coming from the dizzy at the coil and connect a temporary wire in it's place, with the loose end's insulation stripped back a fraction. Put battery negative back on. Get a spare spark plug and connect the high tension wire from the coil to it and rest the plug threads on the some bare metal of the engine or chassis. Turn ignition to on, without starting the engine. Tap the wire you put on the negative of the coil to chassis ground and look for a spark at the plug everytime you lift the wire. If you don't have a spark, there's something wrong with your coil or maybe the ballast resistor.
Post edit: Make sure your leads have the correct resistance, especially the one from the coil to the dizzy. If you get a spark you need check each lead the same way and if that is ok, to start looking at things like the points suppressor (condenser), points, etc.
I don't know much about fords or if this has anything to do with the problem but he mentioned he set timing at 0 degrees,shouldn't it be a little bit more than that? just my :2cents:
Nope. TDC is where it should be set initially. Then once it's running, with
a timing light, set it to spec.
I'm going to go for one cause: bad timing. Maybe you have the timing 180 degrees off, maybe you have the rotor pointed at the WRONG tower thinking it's tower #1 but it's not. Check these things and double check them.
It's going to take you 20k to get that beast running right- sell it to
you need o stick to the mtn bikes and skate boards.