vtec or non vtec?

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how would you know if a 96 civic ex has vtec or not? is there a vtec sign on the valve cover?

posted by  silvia_star

It should say vtec on the top of the engine. Like this (thats in a 96 civic):
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/640000-640999/640145_9_fu ll.jpg

posted by  car_crazy89

It is Vtec, the 96-00 Civic EX's had 127 hp Vtec D16Y8's.

posted by  thunderbird1100

is the 96 dx motor non vtec? does 96 civic ex come with vtec and without vtec? if it does not have vtec then is it a dx motor? how can you tell if the motor has vtec? does the d16 valve cover have a vtec sign on it?

posted by  silvia_star

Might be a bit of an ignorant question...but while we're on the topic of vtec, to not start another thread, can someone explain what it is and what are it's benefits?

posted by  Vlad

Well, I did have this in another thread, but I'll repeat it here. it's long, however:

Ok, a little lesson in VTEC, and why it's important (and why it's impressive) is in order.

To start with, you need to know a bit about how a typical 4 stroke internal combustion engine works, so you know what a cam is, and what the valves do. If you don't know, check out howstuffworks.com, then come back.

The camshaft(s) open and close the valves in an engine, based on their lobe shape (the lobe is kind of round, but looks a bit like an egg if viewed from the side) much of it's diameter it's a circle, but for a bit it gets taller, which opens the valve. How tall it gets, and how long it stays there is a large part of what determines how much power the engine make and where that power is made. A typical stock engine had a medium amount of valve lift, and a medium amount of valve opening duration, very little overlap between the intake and exhaust valves being open, and a specific point in the combustion process the valves open AT.

A performance engine might have more lift, a bit more duration, and a bit more overlap, as well as a different RATE of lift. Where you want the power made (and remember, that's determined by torque and rpms) determines the exact shape and position of those lobes on the camshaft.

Too much lift and duration for a particular engine combination, and you might get goot high end power, but be unable to even RUN at low rpms. This is fine for a pure race car, especially a darg car, but not too good for a street car. On the other hand, too mild a lobe profile and you get great around town driveability and low end power, but it runs out of breath pretty quick, and won't rev very far. Great for a street engine but pretty sucky for a race or performance engine.

In the past, REGARDLESS of type of car (be it a BMW 2002 Ti, an air cooled VW, a small block V8 Mustang, or a big block Chevy) you had to balance your specific needs and engine components to determine the optimum cam shape. If you wanted a mostly race car, you compromised towards upper rpm power, but lost street driveability. If you wanted arond town grunt, you wouldn't rev very far. It was always, ALWAYS a compromise. Larger engines less so, as you could still make enough low rpm power to compensate purely from displacement, but for the average sport sedan and traditional sports car with a small engine, nothing dual purpose was EVER a perfect match. And it is a serious pain to install a street cam grind to drive around, then install a race cam on teh weekends to go racing. And you couldn't do it on the fly when you simply wanted a bit of fun. If you put a race cam with a non race intake manifold and carb, you were screwed. Same if you left a street cam in with a race intake and carb setup (like, say, a tunnel ram on an old Chevelle)

Early on, engine builders learned that you could take a slightly tuned cam and adjust the timing a bit advanced to make a bit more power. It wasn't much, but it was easier than swapping cams. Alfa and Porsche put a system in their cars that adjusted teh cams slightly based on rpm to advance it a bit for more power when needed. it wasn't much, again, but it WAS automatic. Soon you could buy kits for it for other small cars. But most engine builders simply picked the best compromise for the intended use, and left it at that.

But then, after a number of years, Honda came along with an absolutely INGENIOUS invention: VTEC. While it stands for Variable Timing and Electronic Control, it was MUCH more. Honda put two separate lobe shapes on each cam, and then mechanically switched between them on the fly at a certain rpm. Not only was the timing of the cam lobe in relation tothe crank changed (by having it operate at a slightly different degree on the camshaft itself), with the change in lobe cam a change in lift, duration, and overlap!

What this meant was that for the first time, you were esentially driving around on a stock street cam around town, but when you wanted to go for it, essentially a mechanic automatically installed a high rpm race cam while you were driving! And installed the stocker back in it when you slowed down. Unhead of! And it took nearly 10 years for anyone to come close to matching it. Variable valve timing is NOT the same! VANOS, Double VANOS, all those are NOT the same. VVTi-L is the very nearly the only one, and it arrived nearly 10 years after VTEC.

With one shot, Honda reinvented the sport sedan and sports car engine.

While the upper rpm cam was no different or no more powerful than any race cam had ever been in an engine, the important thing was that unlike a race cam engine, the Honda system gave back lost low end power and driveability.

ALL small race and performance engines revved good, and made power up high. And still do. ONLY Honda VTEC engies did so while retaining smooth daily driveability when NOT "on the cam." People who say VTEC cars have no low end are kidding themselves, or simply ignorant of how performance engines have always been. The same engine without VTEC would not only haev LESS low end, but very likely couldn't idle at all (or would idle at 2000+ rpm!) and would be very hard top get off the line without either stalling or spinning the tires from dumping the clutch at higher rpms.

VTEC allowed economy cars to economical ability without losing performance capability. VTEC allowed sports cars to have performance engines without losing daily driveability. No one else had done it, and everyone wants it now.

Hell, those of us that used to build fast V8 cars in the '60s and '70s would have LOVED the ability to have our performance cams and daily driveability at the same time! If I could have in a small block Chevy the higher rpm power of a Comp Cams 260/555 (3000-7000 rpm) and the daily driveability of a Comp Cams 224/470 (1500-5800 rpm) in the same engine at the same time, it would have been pure magic!

posted by  ChrisV

alright i know what vtec is. im sorry if i didnt be specific enough. i just need to know how could you tell if a 96 civic ex is vtec or not? does it write vtec on the valve cover? what else is there so you could know its a vtec motor? i have a friend with a civic ex and dont know if its a vtec or not? does a civic ex come with a different motor like a d15 or something? or does it only come in a d16y8 motor? if a civic ex motor doesnt have vtec, then would it be a civic dx motor?

posted by  silvia_star

Why not just call Honda and ask them?

posted by  Wally


posted by  Wally

LOL....I hope you copy/pasted that from your original, cos' that sure would have taken some patients to do a second time! Always informative though, Chris :thumbs:

posted by  Cliffy

Isnt there some honda engine that is vtecH but doesnt have the vtec on the cover? How would you know then if its vtecH or not?

posted by  CarEXPERT

On the cam gears, there will be a 'bulge' that's way bigger than the other camgear (presuming there's only a intake/exhaust variable).

This pic has one of both exhaust and intake variable valved. See how much bigger the cam gears are than on a non-Variable valve setup?

posted by  Godlaus

Yeah, it says VTEC DOHC. Plus you should be able to tell it apart anyway just because the valve cover on a non-VTEC is smaller.

posted by  FordFromHell351

NO FUKING SHIT GODAUS?? You would have to take the cylinder head off!! I said just to look at it how would you know?

posted by  CarEXPERT

In case you haven't noticed, on most cars, you can see the cam gears without taking the valve covers off.

Feel lucky, carexpert, that I'm trying not to flame anyone anymore.

posted by  Godlaus

Oh you said Cam GEARS? I read it too fast and thought you said just CAMS. And not all the vtecs have the cam-phrasing which is the bulge thingy. I think only the i-vtec has that bulge thingy on the intake cam for advance and retard, not the regular vtecs like b16s engines.

But if the engine was all stock and everything on place, would you beable to see the vtec solenoid near the distributor to see if its vtec or not? Or is there oil lines that go to the head?

posted by  CarEXPERT

I actually don't know, the only true way to be able to tell would be to see the cam lobes.

posted by  Godlaus

Yeah, I copied it from my original. No sense typing it all over again.. :laughing:

posted by  ChrisV

If your Car is a VTEC can you put a part in that says Non-VTEC

posted by  bigman101

Excuse me? :ohcrap:

posted by  Cliffy

My car Is a 1998 Honda Accord 4cyl VTEC I want to put in a New Header for it but it says.........Non-VTEC 2.0L Inline 4-Cylinder N/A Engine..... on the part description does that mean i cant put it in my car here is the link if you want to know what i am talking about

http://www.advancespeedshop.com/jvt-racing-stainless-steel-header-421-2pc-9 802-honda-accord-4cyl-pn-rhdsha98l4-p-3477.html

posted by  bigman101

I tried helping, but maybe i wasn't clear, I said start a NEW thread, not post on more threads.
Here, let me walk you through it:
you are talking about a Honda, which is an Asian Import, you got that part right, and i congratulate you on that.
Now look at the top of this page, you will see this: http://www.car-forums.com/talk/images/cf.gif
Just below that you will see:
Car Forums > Vehicle Specific > Asian Imports > vtec or non vtec
Click on Asian Imports
Right below the Google adds on the top of the page you will see this button: http://www.car-forums.com/talk/images/buttons/newthread.gif
Click It
You will now be creating an entirely NEW thread, not adding to one that already exists. Enter an appropriate title, and you question. Your question was worded much better the second time, and much easier for someone that knows the answer to answer.

I apologize for being an ass, but i couldn't help myself:ohcrap:
Good luck
PS if you couldn't follow the above, just click Here (http://www.car-forums.com/talk/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=15)

posted by  dvdrose18

no apology i needed that cause i had no idea how to do it so thanks

posted by  bigman101

my old honda lol before i switched to dsm. i asked the same questions as u did. a couple of my friends told me to look at the car manuel. so i looked at it. and it said that my car was indeed a vtec. after ward i was dumbfounded and saw vtec on the engine identification plate on the fire wall.lol:laughing:

posted by  DARKtEAGLE

look at the motor, D16y8 =vtec D16z6=non vtec. Another way to tell if its vtec look at the spark plugs if the plugs are closer to the front of the car then yes it has vtec.

posted by  meitianweb

it should say vtec on the valve cover or look for the vtec solenoid under the dizzy

posted by  95teggy

way to revive an old thread.

posted by  Ki2AY

for sure

posted by  DARKtEAGLE

Not all civic valve covers will say V-tec on it so look for the vtec solenoid on the left side behind the engine valve cover. or you can test drive it and floor the car pass 5,800 rpm if you can hear the vtec switch over. if not then its non vtec. or look on the front lower block of the engine, if it is d16y8 then its vtec. if its d16y7 its non vtec.

Fudgedbutt   06 Feb 2012 22:11

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