what are all of the things you need to make a turbo run? i know you need a bov, wastegate, intercooler, the pipings, the air filter, and the gaskets. is there anything else in a full turbo kit?
ecu, fuel pumps, fuel rails, oil pump... umm.. lowered compression.. need's
to be like down around 8.1:1
EDIT: what are you intending on turbo'in?
every situation is different, you don't NEED a blow off valve
the blow off valve isn't exactly needed, like windsonian said, aslong as you've got a wastegate and dump pipe you should be alright.
If you're running low enough boost to not use a BOV, you probably don't need an aftercooler as well (intercooler for the masses). See Honda City Turbo I, no BOV, no IC, ~11psi.
what about turbo's? you can buy any kind of turbo and put it in your car right? as long as you get the piping customized right? is there anything else to a turbo kit instead of the things that you listed?
Well Im not sure if this is what you ment by "piping" but you will need an exhaust manifold inorder to power the turbo. Also, depeding on how much boost you are going with, you are probably going to need bigger injectors along with a fuel managment system(like stated above) so that you dont get fuel cut. Also, a very helpful and also cheap peice for any turbo car is a Manual Boost Controller.
You'll also need all of the necessary gauges to monitor what is going on
inside your newly built powerplant. A little knowledge about all of this
stuff would be a good start. Find a turbo forum, don't ask questions, just
read... A LOT.
At one point none of us knew a damn thing about this stuff. Then, (me anyway) we started acquiring every conceivable piece of literature we could get our hands on and ingesting the information.
This is a good play on words, but... knowledge is power.
Im with Bino on that one, I (along with the rest of the people here) have learned from lots of reading and some hands on activity. Dont just jump into something like this if you arent sure on how to do it. Just do your best to read all you can.
not necessarily, 8:1 is ideal but not necessary to slap a turbo on, only requirement is the tuning be top notch.
No, 8:1 is not ideal, it's just where a lot of guys put their C/R for ease
of tuning. The new Cobalt SS runs a 9.5:1 C/R and then ~11psi boost on top
of that. The new Mazda Speed MX-5 runs a turbo on top of 9.5:1 C/R, and
the new Audi A4 2.0L runs a 11.4psi over the top of 10.5:1 C/R. People
just usually set the C/R lower because it increases the margin for
I, personally, would like to increase the C/R on my turbo motor from 8.5:1 to 9:1, just to improve the off-boost response.
higher ratio and higher boost will = more power... just more chance of boom.. my life goal is 13:1 compressio turbo... haha... it will be done!
oh, and to add... 13:1 C/R turbo that wont go boom
We ran 12:1 +18psi with Methanol on a boosted Ninja motor in college... that was sweet.
the only reason i suggested such a low compression compared to some of the
other stock car's is because of what my mate has in his R32 GT-R, he's
pushin' close on 450hp at the wheels and he need's a lower compression to
be able to run much higher boost.
and to the way i've gotten my experience in motor vehicles and turbo's blah blah blah, yes quite a bit of it has been because of study and also from askin' question's like "what do you need to turbo a car", if you don't ask questions, you don't get answer's, doesn't matter if you look like an idiot, cause one day you'll be the one giving the answer's to the idiot's, lol.
i'd say my knowledge has come from a 50/50 hands on experience and studying experience, and YES knowledge IS power, i agree with you completely.
anyway, as was suggested earlier, bigger injectors would be needed for higher boost, i think that 800cc injectors are perfect to run about 18 - 22psi on, my mate's GT-R is runnin' daily on 18psi, he's got 800cc injectors with Nismo fuel rails and basically a complete Nismo package for the engine to keep it nice and cool while at high revs and pushin' itself to the limit.
it's nice when you've got enough money to swim in.... *drools*....
No you can't just buy any kind of turbo. You either have to do a bit of
maths to ballpark a selection or rely on someone else doing the hard yards
It is wise to get the CR down to around 8. Engines with higher static compression running a hairdryer will have internals that are designed to take the boost. The CR8 figure was derived imperically to ensure planes didn't fall out of the sky.
Plenty of hobbyists have whacked on a turbo and aftermarket ECU without reducing the CR, but plenty of them have had ring failure, bearing failure, blown head gaskets, cracked heads, legs out of bed, etc as a result. You don't hear a lot about the failures for obvious reasons.
And be prepared for a shortened period between major overhauls.
would anyone happen to know the max power and psi output of a t1/t4 turbo?
I have no clue what what a t1/t4 turbo is, perhaps you were referring to a
t3/t4 turbo (which is a hybrid turbo), in which case, no.
A t3 is just a line of turbo's, there's a ton of different flow rates for a T3 turbo, probably ranging from 210hp up to 450hp.
nah i read a street machine mag from a while back that had a 5.7ltr twin
turbo gen II holden VS in it, twin t1/t4 turbo's, i was shocked to see that
there's such a turbo that i didn't know about! :doh:
anyway, i knew that t3/t4's are capable of around 450hp AT MOST when highflowed aswel, i'm just curious as to why this bloke would put twin t1/t4 turbo's on a 5.7ltr gen II V8.
what do you mean by you cant run any turbo? cant you just buy like any turbo and customize all the pipings and the manifold and get all of the turbo accerseries to make it run? how do you lower your compression ratio? so im confused, is it better to run higher boost on higher compression ratio, or is it better to run higher boost on lower compression ratio?
my supra has a compression of 8.5:1 in stock trim and it runs just fine.
ran fine with 11 psi at one point.
ecu isnt really necessary, just helps keep the engine alive for much longer.
same with the oil pump.
sometimes, u dont even need a new fuel pump (though its always recommended, and they are cheap now, like $120 for full kits).
list goes on...... it all really depends on the model.
forged package's slightly lower your compression, also, you can buy a low
compression piston set.. and the lower the compression is the safer it
makes it to run higher boost.
also, not EVERY turbo fits on EVERY engine, you can't just go out and get a HUGE ASS Garret T99-T2 from my dad's kenworth truck and drop it on a 1.3ltr alto works engine, you've gotta stick within a reasonable range with turbo/engine combo's, e.g: SR20DET = T67, 2JZ-GTE = T51R or 3037 or T88, RB26DETT = T88 (apprently the best turbo to use on an RB26DETT) the list goes on really..
just use a reasonable sized turbo on a reasonable sized engine, like for a F6A (1.3ltr alto works engine), you'd wanna stick to something reasonabally small like a T25BB from a JDM CA18DET.
turbo's a mysterious upgrade, the slightest fuk up and you've ruined the whole car, yet.. the slightest upgrade or increase of boost and you can increase acceleration by massive amounts.... meh.. ask a pro like ChrisV.
what about rx7? ive seen rx7's with t88 turbo's when there engine size is only 1.3 ltrs. what im trying to ask is, can you put any turbo in any car? as long as you got the pipings customized right? and lets say the turbo is a decent size for the engine and you have some internals upgrade. you could make that turbo run in that motor right?
Yes, but you are not necessarily maximising your volume. If you lowered your compression to say 7.8 you could sneek in some more 11psi air even though the swept volume doesn't change. Actually with an ECU you could sneek in more 20 psi air on occassions.
true, rotary's are different to rb26dett's though, lol... i've seen a HKS
T51R KH (1100hp turbo) on a 2.0ltr rotary, it was off tap... meh.. i guess
aslong as you've worked your engine correctly and done everything at the
right level.. like.. there's a bloke that i spoke to a while back on
another forum who got a diahatsu charade and worked it to fit a jdm t28bb
from an s15 silvia, i was shocked!! 1.3ltr 3cyl runnin' such a big turbo!
meh, i'm not all that knowledgable compared to professional's that do it daily in a place like HKS Kansai Service.
Let me ask you guys a question.
I understand that the desired CR is about 8:1:1. From what I have read in this thread, why and how can you get more power out of the same amount of boost with a CR of say 10:1:1? Why does this make it more dangeruos? Im sure its an obvious answer, but its not coming to me.
Thanks for clearing it up for me.
because if it's a higher compression ratio it's running a higher risk of
blowing the turbo, head gaskit, valve's, springs, piston's, conrods and
even your crack shaft and cam shaft's.
basically, the higher the c/r on a n/a tuned car, the better, it gives it more chance to run more fuel/air into the combustion chamber and thus create more power for the engine to rely on throughout all rev ranges.
apposed to runnin' a low compression on a f/i car, that allows it to run the correct amount of fuel/air intake to run the car's f/i system along with the engine..
i believe my old man once told me that a s/c is capable of running a higher c/r then a t/c, you'd wanna ask some of these other guys, cause they'd be sure of it.. i'm only 16, still got quite a bit to learn.
purchasing a thick head gasket would lower compression in your ride.. hyundai you said crack shaft? sounds like thats a higher risk to blow..lols...im just messin man...
you got to keep in mind you can just get any kind of turbo..youll hate it when you find out you have twice the turbo lag compared to a smaller turbo with a smaller housing that spools up much quicker
How much did your friend pay for his r32?
there is a guy around indy where i live his name is tim he has a toyota supra woth a stock block and a fully built head and a sp86 turbo or something like that.....and he is putting down 1000+hp to the wheels he has the world record for stock block......so you can boost without changing out the bottom end and still be reliable