Can't wait until I get my new Integra

Home  \  Asian Imports  \  Can't wait until I get my new Integra

I really hope it comes, I'm supossed to be getting it today, its Blue, auto, with cloth seats of course., I think it has a Walbro fuel pump already installed!
My mechanic said it seemed to run fine, (for a $2850 car that is)LOL!
well anyway hope to see you on the highway soon, just look for the trail of uncooked rice-OUT

posted by  C4Power

you know posting stupid crap like this doesn't even bother me so please post more and get it out of you system. the only reason i started arguing with you in the other thread is because you were singling people out and us ricers we stick together (ha ha get it sticky rice,your retarded) so feel free to post all you want but don't bash on other people or try and start arguments or we'll just have to belittle(hope that's not too big a word) you again have a nice day @sshole :mrgreen:

posted by  airmanUSN

its like fishing- all you need is the right bait

posted by  C4Power

And as you've proven, you dont need brains either :thumbs:

posted by  car_crazy89

check it out, just got a callway C4. jealous aren't youhttp://www.terraceiagolf.com/images/callaway_c4_driver.jpg

posted by  airmanUSN

:orglaugh: :orglaugh:

posted by  windsonian

wow dude
thats so cool
where are the shiny cylinders he had
at least your callaway is authentic
his is some bootleg shit
yo

hey C4 how about some rice im hungry

posted by  6000LE

my Integra is here, its a great car. I just got back from the track- I "owned"{well not really thoses losers got to drive home in them} all those Porsches and Vipers, I even raced a F-50, he had me for a coulpe of shifts- but then my NOS kicked in, you know like fast & furious(I love that movie, even got the poster up on my wall) all of a sudden, I "burnt" the F-50.
who knew you could get 764Hp from a 3 cylinder. boy was I wrong about 1.2L engines.-OUT

posted by  C4Power

what the **** is this kid smoking?

posted by  HyundaGuy

us Importers need to stick together, and tell each other that we have real cars-- that make real Hp, like 786 hp- or 1156hp, even though what we consider engine work is opening up the hood and bolting some brite green air filters on, or Type R decals, the red ones- and that what we consider the cars intake to be isn't really just is air duct leading up to the intake manifold. you know like BRRRR..... cold air intakes. War 3 cylinders pushing 800hp

posted by  C4Power

Are you done yet?

Perhaps you're better off somewhere else instead of here.

posted by  Godlaus

Yeah, that whole BRRR thing was really hilarious the first time. You just keep proving that you're an ignorant piece of dog shit. You can't even come up with two decent put-downs. Seriously, just go back to whacking off in the corner. It bothers the rest of us much less than your online behavior.

You're an ignorant idiot.

Can we ban this ass-clown now that he's started about 8 useless threads?

posted by  Bino

Bav and satty signed off before I could send a PM :ohcrap: .........

posted by  Godlaus

C4,

I honestly want to know, why do you keep posting here? No one here, and I mean NO ONE gives a F*** about what you drive, real or imaginary. Notice, not one person responded to your car with anything serious except for laughing at you. We're not jealous, we just think you are an idiot. So get a clue and realize that no one gives a rat's ass about you and stop making yourself look dumber.

Nissan_Altima :banghead:

posted by  Nissan_Altima

yeah your right, should I go with the bright green, or blue air filter?

posted by  C4Power

do you even know what the air filters connected to? or what it actually does? do you even know what suck squeeze bang and blow is?, here's a simple one for ya monkey rapist, what does a dump pipe and blow off valve do? and what are they connected to?

posted by  HyundaGuy

Which ever one gets your punk ass kicked off this discussion board the fastest.

posted by  Bino

ok, green it is

posted by  C4Power

BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN, BAN,

posted by  Bino

I've got a question for ya C4. How does a turbocharger work? How does an internal combustion engine work? Ever heard of a W engine? Know how a rotary works? Know what bhp stands for? Know what "knock" is? Know what "crankwalk" is? Probably not, so stfu and let the knowledgeable people do the talking.

posted by  Oomba

:clap: i love this guy :D

posted by  HyundaGuy

let the real car guys talk, questions like - what color should I paint my car, white or black?-or getting a car...please help?- or air filters, should I get green or blue? good idea, i'll let the "knowledgeable" people talk.

posted by  C4Power

You're the only one making big deal about these questions. Every tuner gets a new intake in the course of making their car faster. People like to have their cars a color that they like. Not everyone wants "Rust Brown" or "rainy day grey". The thing is, everyone on here knows what the things I listed are, so theres no point in making a topic on them.

You're telling me you wouldnt take a twin turboed Supra? How about a De Tomaso Pantera? Porsche 911? Bugatti Veyron? Oh I forgot you got that mad fast replicar.

posted by  Oomba

No way, I would take the entry level Acura Integra instead. then I would get a Walbro fuel pump, green air filter, cold air intake, carbon fiber hood, you know, the stuff real car "enthusiasts" get

posted by  C4Power

I said nothing about Integras or even modding the cars I was talking about. Why cant you stick to the conversation and instead make fun of ricers? I love making fun of ricers, but I like getting into conversations about good cars more than that. Not all imports are Japanese, and not all people that like Japanese imports are ricers.

posted by  Oomba

i'm glad you got a walbro fuel pump for your base integra, your obviously plaining on going with a boosted setup, and relized that with the addition of more air into the cylinders more fuel would be needed to maintain a good stoichiometric air to fuel ratio. OH you didn't know that well the air/fuel ratio is a common source of confusion to many people. It refers to the ratio of air to fuel exiting from the engine, and it is a good measure (in combination with an exhaust gas temperature gauge/ or 02 sensor) of measuring engine tune. The air/fuel ratio is commonly represented as a single numeral as in 14.7. This actually represents the number of air particles exiting per single fuel molecule (ie., 14.7:1). The 14.7:1 just mentioned is actually what is called stoichiometric - or the ideal air/fuel ratio, at which temperatures are controlled and fuel economy is optimized. Typically cars make best power at about 12.5:1 air/fuel ratio, but this is harder on the emissions parts and sensors, which reduces lifetime. This is because the air/fuel ratio affects the heat generated during the combustion phase of the engine cycle. Fuel acts as a cooling agent for the cycle, and thus having a numerically lower air/fuel ratio - which is considered to be a RICHER air/fuel ratio (ie., richer in the amount of gas exiting) will result in lower exhaust gas temperatures. Similarly, leaning out the mixture by injecting less gasoline causes the overall exhaust gas temperatures (commonly referred to as EGTs) to rise. Frequently a change from a lean to a rich mixture can cool the exhaust charge by as much as 400 degrees Fahreinheit, so this is a very practical matter.

You should probaly invest in a engine management unit of some sort also maybe a reflash or a piggyback system like Apex'i AFC. The AFC acts as and aid to help the stock computer to vary the air/fuel ratio by taking into account engine RPM, throttle position, engine temperature, timing advancement, and a number of other factors. As the engine cycles/turns, the computer calculates the optimal period for the fuel injectors to open and spray fuel into the engine (remember that fuel is pressurized, so that the time the injector is open is directly proportional to how much fuel gets sprayed in - ie., fuel spray happens at an effectly constant rate, so that having an injector open for 0.05sec will spray less fuel than 0.10sec). Obviously, the air/fuel ratio is proportional to how much fuel is injected, and therefore the computer uses the determined air/fuel ratio continually to tune and optimize its fuel injection maps. This is what causes the 'bouncing' or 'scrolling' commonly observed in air/fuel gauges at part throttle - the computer seeks to keep the engine operating at the optimal air/fuel ratio by richening and leaning the fuel mixture, attempting to get the mix *just right*. However, there will always be a certain set amount of 'bounce' no matter how long the computer seeks to tune the mixture, as it is also used to test that the O2 sensor is still functioning.

IF ANYBODY WOULD LIKE TO CORRECT ME OR ADD PLEASE FEEL FREE :2cents:

posted by  airmanUSN

OH and deffinately want to ditch the OE setup and go witha wideband, those are real cheap though so you should have plenty of money left over for look-a-like body parts and chrome accessories

posted by  airmanUSN

though you could use these after all that hard work your brain just had to dohttp://www.onlinehealth.ca/images/Products/Tylenol.jpg

posted by  airmanUSN

even i have no idea what you just siad
clue me in man im supposet to be the smartest racer in MAD Tuners and I feel dumb now

posted by  6000LE

sorry C4 was just doubting my mad ricers skills so i had to get thesauric on his punk ass yo! -さようなら

posted by  airmanUSN

but i reall wana know what all that stuff is
lol

posted by  6000LE

Air-fuel ratio stuff

posted by  Oomba

thanks
but whats the detailed stuff
like he mentioned a lot i didnt read all of it im at work right now
i have no idea what all this stuff is
i know prices
i know what goes where
but all of the numerics like balancing ratios i have no clue as to what it is
clue me in someone

btw oomba dont hate on the civic
i like them
and then later im gona get it converted to a stick
how much does that cost does anyone know?

posted by  6000LE

Why not just get a manual from the start?

posted by  Oomba

cause i found a nice civic witrh really low miles
1995 wih 25k miles

and my dad doesnt want me to get a stick
he siad in a yera
so i wana drive this year and then swap the trans because the car will still have low miles on the engine and il get a brand new transmission
or maybe a salvage one with like 50k miles on it
sound like a good idea?
considering the fact you hate civics but put that aside for this one time
in general does it make sense or no
so i will have the civic modded and so i wont have to start all over

posted by  6000LE

basically like he said it's just the very technical way of explaining air/fuel ratios and how you computer uses numerious sensors(many of which i didn't mention) to keep it at or around stoichiometric levels. (ideal ratio at which internal combustion occurs) And the wideband i mentioned was refering to the 02 sensor which aids the ECU in the adjustment of MAP. the original one is a norrowband which is only accurrate to a certian point and can be affected by location whereas a wideband after market one is much more precise but also a lot more expensive.

posted by  airmanUSN

he was saying that cause it can be alot of work to swap auto with manual. you have to put in a clutch pedal. (im not too familiar with fwd, but in rwd i am) and i know with rwd cars with tranny being under the hump between the passenger and driver seat that alot of times you have to cut into the floor pan and get a new cross member. but im not sure since the trans axel is in the engine bay. but for sure you need to put the clutch peday in and that can be tricky. overall it would have been easier to either buy a manual to begin with. but who knows in a year might be able to sell the auto and find a good manual car.

posted by  72firebird

That's true. On a fairly complex late model car like the Honda you're looking at, swapping to a manual trans is a real pain in the ass. Often times, half the car has to be changed. Everything from motor mounts and adding a flywheel (and associated balancing issues) to adding pedals, shifter mechanisms to wiring harnesses (different sensors and often even the computer, etc). Seriously, on a newer car if you want one that's a manual trans, get one that is that way already, as it will either cost you as much as the car did to swap, or take you a LONG time to geet it to work.

Older cars are easy, as are soon-to-be race cars. Late model daily drivers are not.

posted by  ChrisV

Your Message