Are volfenhag amps good? I was thinking the 1600 or 1000. Any help is apreciated.
No, simply put.
What are you looking to power and I'll help you out.
2 12' alpine type r's...1000watts peak...450 rms
Are they the new 12" 05 model type-R (500rms/1500peak).
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14953< br />
Or the 04 model (300rms/1000peak).
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=11612< br />
They didnt make a 450rms 12" Type-R.
Also, did you get the Dual 4ohm or Dual 2ohm model...
Sorry, they are the 04 ones and i believe they are 4 ohm..im buying from a friend.
dont go cheap when buying car audio...most of the time you get what u pay for, also when u do get an amp bridge it and wire yer speakers down to 2ohms(2ohms each). that way yer amp will have no prob pushin them :2cents:
Okay, now I can recommend some amps. If your electrical system can take it
I HIGHLY recommend you do not pass up this deal...
This thing retails NEW for over $500. One of the most trusted/best amp makers on the market.
Since it's class AB it might have a pretty big draw on your electrical system running bridged at 600rms 4ohm mono. To keep the price in check you really wont be able to go to a D-Class monoblock and run it at 4ohm for around 600rms. You could wire the subs down to a 1ohm load and run of these
I still suggest going with the Orion, bridging it and running everything at 4ohm. It'll sound great and be very reliable. Lets hope your electrical system is still happy though.
With two dual 4ohm subs he can only wire them to 4ohms or 1ohm.
And bridging 90% of Class AB amps and running them to a 2ohm load means you'll be frying quite a few amps. Most 2 channel Class AB amps are NOT 2ohm MONO stable (but are almost always 2ohm STEREO stable). Only usually some very expensive ones are (such as made by Zapco).
you are my savior :rock:
Hey this has nothing to do with volfenhag but I thought I would post my audio question in here instead of making another thread. A while ago I decided on getting the DD3512ds, I was thinking about this amp http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14805< br /> because the RMS for the DDs is 1,000 and they would each get exactly that with this amp, and its a super D class ( I'm not sure what the SUPER means but hopefully you can clarify that for me. Anyway do think that is a good amp and what sort of ohm load should I run them on.
Yes that's a great amp choice and would perfect for a set of 3512d's.
Remember to get the DVC 1ohm model so you can wire two of them down to a 1 ohm load.
I found the same amp at ikesound for a bit cheaper, check it out.
hey thunder while ur here, ive been searching for 2 more 12" subs, so i can
have 3, i was just lookin at those 05' 4ohm type R's... are they really
that seems like a pretty good price if they are, also if u do recommend those subs what would be the best bang/buck amp to power them?
would this be a good enclosure for the 3 of them without buying from some 3rd party half assed company.
Hey thanks a lot man. Could I wire them down below 1 ohm, the DD website
says they can take it, or is the problem that the amp can't take it?
o yeah and how much again did you say DD would sell those subs for?
Edit-Nevermind it says 1 ohm my bad
Dont you already have a 12" Volf? Or are you willing to get rid of it for 3
Okay, if you go with three '05 12" Type-R's get the Dual 2ohm model. This way you can wire it down to 1.34ohm (If you get the DVC 4ohm model you can wire it down to only 2.67ohm...which good luck finding an amp that can do 1500+rms within price reason).
ikesound doesnt have the DVC 2ohm model in yet with the 12" but they have the 10"
Are you sure you want to lose that much trunk space with 3 12s? 3 10s would sound pretty good and cost exactly $300 + ship.
As for an amp to push them...
Would push 1400rms. Giving each about 460-470rms.
No, that's a bit too big per sub. Alpine recommend the 12" Type-R be put in
a .66-1 cu-ft sealed enclosure. I dropped one in a 1.02cu-ft box I built
with a friend and it was a low end monster...problem is it doesnt hit too
much high bass, so he's going to get a couple 8s for up front mid-bass.
Ideally they recommend .88cu-ft per driver...which you wont be as loud on
the low but have more high end and get a little louder.
You should really take out some time and build your own sealed box. Sealed boxes are pretty simple to make (just make sure when you done to seal everything up so there is no air leaks with some chauk). You can buy 3/4" MDF sheets at Home Depot. A 2'x4' sheet is about $7. Probably spend around $25-$30 total for building a box. Saves a lot of money.
Yeah they can be wired down for extremely low ohm loads (.25ohm and such)
but the problem is finding an amp that is .5ohm or .25ohm stable. Mostly
people who do wire them down like that use it for short burps at
competitions and still fry amps.
You'd be fine getting two DVC 1ohm models and wirte them for a 1 ohm load.
Take about 20-40% off msrp.
ok and thanks for finding me that amp for 60 dollars less than it was on onlinecarstereo.com. How much did you get your DD3515s for. O yeah, and I need to know exactly how big the 12s are in diameter, including the lip and everything. Thanks.
They were $320/each for me. So $640 total.
will the 12s be cheaper
Not by much, retail wise they are $30 cheaper a pop...but in real life once you get a discounted price they will end up being maybe $20 cheaper a pop. but once you get into spending $300+ for a woofer, $300 and $320 doesnt make a difference.
thunder i was planning on just keeping the volf and getting 2 type r's. but i mean thats if u think they are good, i also head about the infinity's and theyre pretty good, my friend made my box im using for the volf, but how do u measure how much cubic feet it is inside? can u just do the HxWxD equation or is it different with the sub in there? and depending on the subs u choose whats a good amp to power em?