Hello! My name is SKYNETRP, and I am new here and need a little help. I
unfortunately necroposted an old thread because a search engine link took
me there....oooops. So I am posting what I put there along with another
post or two from members. Sorry for the necro!
I drive a Mitsubishi 3000GT SL N/A, and it is modded pretty good. so far I am at about 275 HP (from stock 222 HP) and will be at over 300 HP when it is all said and done.
I have a CAI on her (if you can really call it a CAI at this point, pfffffft), and I need to actually make it a true CAI. At least the filter is actually closed off from the engine bay completely up to the hood. I want to cut a small hole in the hood and put a mini-scoop directly over the encased K&N filter so the air is "ram air" and actually "cold air" (ambient anyway) instead of pumping 250 degree engine bay air into the plenum. I already realize that ram air will only get me about 1/3 psi at 120 MPH+, but every little bit helps at those speeds.
I already have the new "Plenum Spacer" that completely kills off ALL of the superheated engine bay air right down to about 70 degrees or so....I was very suprised at how well it really works. Before it would literally burn your hand if you touched it, and now it isn't even warm to the touch, pretty kewl. Do any of you have any ideas about what kind of scoop will work and where I can get it? I want it to have a louver door on it so I can close it off when it is raining hard.
While you are returning replies.........think about this one........I am currently about to rout my car's A/C unit directly into the CAI pipe right at the throttle body, adding 40 degree air to the 70 degree air coming in from the CAI, which should give me an even 55 degree air flow verses the normal 250+ degree engine bay air.......giving me about a 180 degree difference which calculates to roughly a consistant 22% HP increase when combined with the CAI's CFM increase, and injecting more fuel, and a timing advance to burn the fuel/air mix evenly and completely. It actually computes to 27%, but you have to deduct 5% for the A/C units power draw from the engine, leaving a 22% HP increase. That's about 49 added HP in my 3000GT. What do you think?
BTW.........I already have the Twin Turbo Exhaust on this car which greatly increased my air outflow along with a custom Down Pipe, and removed the Cat and put a Test Pipe in, that is way less restrictive. I believe my system is pretty even all the way around right now, but I am certainly open for suggestions. If you guys and gals know of ANY way to choke out a few more HP short of 4" pistons, 750 cc Injectors, or Cam Shafts......please let me know!
Yesterday, 09:00 PM #23
Posts: 1,971 Quote:
i think it'll be hot in the cabin now
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PLANET EARTH
eRam Electric Boost to 1.7 PSI
Before I post this, I already know that a bunch of you guys are going to say that this is a rip off and doesn't work, but I am here to tell you that I have installed one myself on a friends car and the difference was incredible.
This is NOT one of those plastic "turbo looking" hair dryer things that do absolutely nothing. This thing spools up at 25,300 RPM in 1/10th of a second, and only at "WOT" and forces over 800cfm (single unit) or 1360cfm (double unit) of air at your throttle body. Now everyone knows that even a 5.0L Mustang can only gulp down 470cfm, leaving all that extra pressure to stay built up to a decent 1psi (single) or 1.7psi (double unit), which is not enough to harm ANY engine. Now I know that's not a lot of power, but it is substantial enough to make a definite difference in the seat of your pants AND at the DYNO as well. It comes out to be about a 7% HP increase in the single unit and about a 12% increase in the double unit....not bad huh? We all know that every 1 psi equals a 7% HP increase (if you do not heat up the air) and every 40 degrees of temperature drop equals a 6% HP increase.
No one could believe the performance difference that this thing made. It's called the eRam Electric Supercharger, although it is hardly what I would call a "Super" charger. It adds a mild 1 psi with a single unit, and a very decent 1.7 psi with the double unit and only at wide open throttle (WOT). I dyno'ed it and I drove it, and it is amazing for such a cheap price: $299 for single, and $598 for the double (which I highly reccommend) to perform so well. Will you guys go and check it out online? I am about to buy the double unit in a few weeks.
Here's the link: http://www.electricsupercharger.com/ (Don't try removing this link unless you contact me first, it is NOT SPAM)
My project and personal goal is to take an N/A DOHC 3000GT SL and break the 200 MPH mark WITHOUT adding any major hardware like larger pistons, larger injectors or camshafts, or turbochargers or true superchargers. Right now I have managed to hit 184 MPH with my existing mods and that was at redline and it took a while to get there. I got to 160 MPH rather quickly and in 4th gear. 5th gear took me to 184 MPH but man I was screamin and I was burning 100 octane.
I believe that with the double eRam, and the hood scoop over the K&N, and the A/C routed into the Throttle Body via CAI, and the ECU retuned to match the new Fuel/Air flow, I can reach the 200 MPH mark and not at redline. What do you think?
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Wayne NJ
how does extra HP increase top speed? if it is redlined, it is redlined, extra HP doesn't change the gear ratio. no matter how much HP you have, it will still red line at the same speed, you just might get there faster, and higher octane fuel doesn't change the gear ratio either.
Are you saying that if I put in 4" pistons, 750cc injectors, a full race cam, and a full blown 20psi supercharger in my car that it won't go any faster than it does now? Are you nuts? OF COURSE IT WILL. More HP and higher octane will definitely get me there at a faster speed AND a faster time. Think about it.......you don't have to change out your tranny or your rear end unless you add so much HP that the torque alone will break it......and then you just put in a heavier duty tranny. This car will red line with a 100 HP engine in it, but it won't be doing 184 when it hits the red.......and if I had 600 HP in here, I am sure the top end would be a LOT higher at red line. The SOHC version of the 3000 GT is only 164 HP and it red lines at about 128 MPH in 5th gear, and it has the exact same tranny, rear end and gear ratio as my DOHC GT SL that redlined at 184 MPH. Well.....I am going to hit 200 MPH, and I will not be at redline when I do it, I promise you that. I was barely into the red (7000 RPM) at 184, but man it screams there. I think the added HP I will get from the Super eRam should do the trick with plenty of room left over. I only need 16 more MPH.
I was told by the dealer that this car was designed after Ferrarri. I didn't believe him so I went and looked, and he was right. The front end on this car looks pretty similar to one of the early 1990's Ferrarri 512 Testerosas' with the flip up lights, clear flash lenses below the light covers, and the front spoiler and fog lights (only on one particular year though), the door interiors and exteriors are the same style and shape including the mirrors, and the seats are extremely close, almost identical, but that's where is all ends, LOL.
The interior looks a LOT like the early Ferrarri 555, especially the dash, almost identical in every way. The main instrumentation (Speedo, Tach, Gas, etc.) is located under a single rounded dash hump in front of the steering wheel, and the other guages are located 3 in a row side by side under 3 smaller dash humps to the right of the steering wheel, exactly like the 3000 GT. And then the stereo and A/C etc., is in a very similar shaped center console that drops down below the 3 guages. The only difference I could see is that the 555 didn't have the back part of the padded center console where you rest your arm. Even the glove box portion of the dash was very similar to the 3000 GT.
The fast back rear door is a lot like another Ferrarri 635 I saw. I was shocked to see how very similar these features are to the 3000 GT. Of course it is all different after that. Pretty kewl I think. But could I go as far as to say that the 3000 GT is the Japanese Ferrarri? If it weren't for the fact that most of these Ferrarri's are rear engine 12 cylinder beasts, I guess I could. Let's just say that the 3000 GT is Japan's version of a 6 cylinder front wheel drive Ferrarri.....heh heh!!
One thing is for sure.....I have never driven a 6 cylinder sports car with only 222 HP that was any where NEAR as fast as this 3000 GT. When I first got this car, I took it up to 160 with NO MODS, and a lot more gas peddal to go too. I was amazed at how fast this thing accellerates too. I can easily say that this car stock is faster out the gate and much faster top end than most 8 cylinder American made cars today, no kidding. I looked up the history of this car in Japan, and that's when I found out that the engine in this car is a Japanese race car engine to start with. It revs up and takes off a lot quicker than most 6 cylinder or 8 cylinder factory passenger cars from America. It's hard to believe that it only uses 222 HP stock and doesn't seem to have a lot of ft/lbs either for the amount of speed she generates.
The 3000 GT is still called a "GTO" in Japan, and was built as a GT Racing car (LeMans style racing) that was put on the streets with just a few mods to slow it down a little. It is very easy to unleash that HP with very little hardware. When I am done, it will have about 326 HP, and all I will have done to it is increase the air/fuel ratios, increase the cfm of nice cold 55 degree air to about 300cfm, and take out all the intake AND exhaust air restrictions by using 3" smooth Mandrel bent pipes throughout the system, and throw in 1.75 psi for good measure. Of course, I will have to plug in the old lap top to the ECU and tune her real nice, and maybe sing to her, and tell her a bedtime story. Her name is "Little Red".....go figure!
BTW.....can you tell that I love my car?
Today, 08:30 AM #28
I Drive A Buick...Also
okay first of all, your stock N/A 3000GT never did 160 mph with planty of pedal left, no point in lying here, we know the difference
second of all, 326 hp will never get you to 200mph, unless you are driving a streamliner or something like that
third of all, if you redline at 126 in 5th gear with 222 hp
you will also redline at 126 in 5th with 600 hp as well
the only way to change top speed is ethier to alter the gears in your car. or possibly raise the redline to something like 9000rpm or more
and finally, necropost
and welcome to CF
Actually, you're right, the car already did have a Twin Turbo Exhaust and high performance mufflers on it for a lot less air restriction, but that's it....nothing else. And I call 2 inches of pedal a lot of room to play with....my bad. How would I go about "raising" the redline? Is that even possible?
Hang on a second......I already got it to 184 MPH @ 275 HP, I only need 16 more MPH and I will have another 50 HP when I'm done. You telling me I can't get 16 MPH out of 50 more HP? Are you sure? I'm telling ya, the SOHC redlines at 128 MPH in 5th gear and mine redlines at 184 with all the mods in 5th, and 160 without them with the exact same tranny, and yes, I had an inch or two of peddal left at 160....that's plenty......I just ran out of what I consider usable safe RPM's. BUT, I am bad about not liking to go past 7000 RPM if I don't have to, even though it is supposed to be OK at 8000, even 8500 I have been told. But it sounds like it is going to explode at 7500.....the revs are so damned high and smoooooth, ear piercing actually. Keep in mind that my engine is almost brand new, and has over $8000 in new parts and labor in it (that's another long and funny story), so it runs very strong. My actual overall milage is just under 100K, but all the important mechanics have been replaced recently. My 3000 GT is a Generation 1 (1991) with a Gen 1 ECU, the best of all the 3000 GT models to reprogram. Plus I think that the Ferrarri pop up lights are the kewlest.
BTW......I am ONLY refering to the GEN 1 DOHC 3000 GT SL Model.......NO GEN 2'S OR GEN 3'S. They are not able to be tuned like the GEN 1 because the GEN 1 already has almost NO RESTRICTIONS and you can easilly program almost anything you want to in that GEN 1 ECU and I have been told that you cannot program the 2's or 3's the way you can a 1. Speed limiter.....Rev Limiter....what's that? LOL!
And BTW, with an American built car I would totally agree with you about not reaching 200 MPH with only 326 HP, but these Japanese Mitsubishi racing engines get a HELL of a lot more speed per HP than I have personally ever seen on ANY car. In this car I seem to get speeds and times that American cars with twice the HP and two more cylinders are getting......no kidding. During my long tedius life I have owned a 72 Vette, a BMW 520 Euro, a real nice Datsun 240Z, a 69 Camaro (in 1973!), a 78 Porche 911, 58 Chevy, 57 Bellaire, all set to run fast, and none of them impressed me as much in HP verses speed as the 3000 GT....except for maybe the 911, I loved that car.
Have you ever heard of a stock 6 cylinder even doing 160? I don't know what they did to make this engine so damned fast, but I truly respect this car's ability with such short HP. I am thinking that maybe the stroke is a lot shorter, kind of like a 2 stroke verses a 4 stroke in motorcycle engines, just a guess. I did notice that these are quick reving engines and fast off the line. I noticed that the car had the quickest acceration at about 3/4 peddal and would knock you back in your seat in the first 3 gears, but if you tried it WOT it was noticably slower which told me to repregram the fuel/air flow map to run a lot richer.....that fixed it right away. So the stories about factory programming being run real lean in order to give better gas milage is true.
I get 0-60 in 5 seconds flat, and I can get that down to 4.5 seconds with a better clutch and a short throw shifter......that's fast man. I only wish I could get to 60 in 1st gear.....I bet I could do it in 4 seconds flat that way if she'd keep pulling hard through 7500 RPM. Unfortunately, I can only get to 45 MPH in 1st gear which is kind of dissapointing. I think the gear ratio's could have been a little better and more consistant in this tranny. I keep wondering if I am better off with the 6 speed tranny version (TT/VR4) for this car? After all, I am already hitting speeds that the twin turbo was meant to do. The weight differencs in the VR4 just doesn't justify the the whole concept of a turbo version, that's why I think they went with twin turbo......maybe an after thought? Or just an end to justify the means? I chose a Non Turbo N/A because I didn't want the hassle and expence of TWO turbos to deal with, PLUS I knew I could get the N/A model to run damned near as fast with the right modifications and the lessor weight, and I was right.
This car has already been put up against a bunch of both non-modded SOHC & DOHC N/A 3000 GT's, a couple of Stealths (which are not near as fast or as classy as the Mitsubishi's IMHO) and a few non-modded Twin Turbo's, and even some modded VR4's.....and they were all pretty impressed with the way these N/A cars respond to the better inexpensive mods combined with Windows based tuning software. Keep in mind I am ONLY referring to the GEN 1 DOHC 3000 GT SL'S.....NOT THE GEN 2 NOR THE GEN 3'S. I have not been beaten by any of the N/A's, and I outran the VR4's for the most part, maybe due to the turbo lag and short distances. But every time, they were playing catch up to me, not the other way around. I did get my ass beat by several VR4's that had been modded of course, but that's to be expected. My goal was to challenge and beat non-modded Twin Turbo's which I did. I had a little more trouble with the Gen 3's for some reason, it was a lot closer race.
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Down Below
Posts: 1,972 huh??
You can only be young once. But you can always be immature.
I just brought the thread to this new thread so we can discuss the subject without beating a dead horse.
2) You SUCK at life.
1. He's not beating a dead horse by creating an entirely new thread to
rehash a previous thread. Go figure. What don’t you understand?
2. I don't know if he sucks at life, but he certainly does suck at lying about his car. And he is apparently good at spamming. After all, he did get in the website he want's us to look at least once without being reported and without rent-a-cop catching it. Success.
Yeah...I think this is officially the most misinformed thread on CF yet.
One, it has already been said in this thread:
1.Even if you put in a bigger engine, the transmission's gear ratios are the same. If a 2 litre, 4 cylinder engine is doing 5,000 RPM in 5th, and an 8 litre 12 cylinder engine is doing 5,000 RPM in 5th gear on the same transmission, the car will be moving at the same speed.
2. Also, would you really get more power if you re-routed the A/C to blow into the engine? lol
Please go away, I came here to get a little help from fellow car lovers, not morons who congregate online. Seriously, I am not going to waste my time with you.
Well, I went out this morning and took a chance and took this engine to
8000 RPM in 4 out of 5 gears. 1st went to 7500 RPM and I shifted. To my
surprise, it was fine. I am just not used to an engine that sounds this
way. So my top end WILL be able to reach 200 MPH without a rear end change.
I have almost always beefed up American cars, and Japanese cars sound and
react completely different.......at least this one does. My German 911 was
never modded it ran so well like it was and I didn't know much about those
engines, so I had nothing to compare this Japanese engine to at all.
Anyway, I have never had to switch out rear ends myself, my mechanic did
those things back in the day. I looked up what you said and you are right,
the rear end needs to be changed if you need more room at the top of your
run. They must use a different size rear end in the SOHC 3000 GT, because
it definitely redlines at 128 and mine redlines at 184.
The answer to the A/C question is ABSOLUTELY. This mod is being done all over the country right now, It wasn't exactly my idea. BUT, you also have to install a REAL CAI, a REAL plenum spacer, and vent out the hood correctly OR run the CAI the old fashioned way under the body or through the fender well. If you know ANYTHING at all about temps and HP, you wouldn't be ignorant enough to say that. Every 40 degrees cooler your car runs, the HP increases by 6%. My CAI is a TRUE CAI and I want to put a better hood scoop over it instead of running it under the car like it is now. If you have 70 degree air (for example) running into your CAI and the plenum spacer is keeping at a 70 degree temp, the A/C unit will add 40 degree cold air to the mix (varies in different cars) cooling the 70 degree air flow to aprox 55 degrees (varies on different cars) and INCREASING HP BY APROX. 8% to 9% RESPECTIVELY.
You REALLY should try doing a little research before you run your mouth. I can tell there are a lot of youngsters here, the ignorance has a distinct stench.
I haven't lied about a single thing about this car, and I don't have time to play the flamers game either. I didn't spam anything, I simply asked you to take a look at the electric booster and tell me what you think.......I actually wanted some of your opinions, which was obviously a total waste of my time for most of ya. I saw the run times myself on that eRam, I already know for a fact that it works. They may exagerate the double unit by a few tenths, but you can feel the boost kick in VERY pronounced on it. I just wanted to know if any of you had ever heard of it. But after the wize cracks I have already seen, I am quite sure you will TRY to acuse it of being the same thing as those rip off pieces of crap on Ebay that blow 240 cfm or less......
All I ask right now is that the guy who emailed me to help me out (you know who you are), go ahead and try it. I will buy it from you if you don't like it, but you have to tell me BEFORE I order the double from them. And thanks for all your help and all the links that you sent me to, they have been a LOT of help! I found the hood scoop you sent me to and it's exactly what I was looking for. I am posting this here because I want the flamers to know that there ARE some decent people here who really do help newcomers.
If I say I hit 184 MPH, then I hit 184 MPH. There is no sence in saying any different. I belong to a 3000 GT club here in Memphis, and I can GUARANTEE you that we have VR4's here that walk all over 155 MPH that only took off the speed limiters and rev limiters. The whole point of this thread is to prove that the GEN 1 N/A model of the 3000 GT can run just as fast as the unmodded VR4's due to the weight difference's and whatever they did in the GEN 2's and 3's T/T ECU's. This car has an extra 130 HP PLUS locked away in it and the cost to unleash MOST of it is extremely cheap......about $1000.00 including the downpipe OR the new 3SX long headers and removal of the CAT.
I have done a LOT of work on my car and it is beautiful under that hood in both looks (completely chromed and red/blue color scheme) AND in power mods. I take my car seriously just like any other car lover. Trust me, she is FAST, FAST, FAST for a cheaply modded car for sure. And if you can tell me how to get an extra 100 HP PLUS out of YOUR car without new pistons, injectors and cams.....by all means...tell me about it. I only say "100" HP here instead of 130 HP because the last 30 HP is where it gets a little expensive dealing with Borla exhausts or the like.
Seriously guys, try and have a little decency and leave this thread intact so some of us can have a few nice conversations.
This link is going to take you to the video that will make you eat your
words. This STOCK 3000 GT Non-Turbo hit 275 KMH and you can see that the
RPM's are still only at 5000 RPM. In case you don't know how to
convert....that's 170 MPH, and he had 2000 more RPM to go which should have
put him at at least 175 MPH.
My 3000 GT is heavily modded, and it didn't take much to hit 184, I'm telling ya. Anyway, you cannot argue with this video, it is plain for anyone to see. He keeps the camera on BOTH the Tach and the Speedo at all times. At first he goes to about 220, backs off (maybe a little scared), and then goes a little faster and holds at 240 for a second or two, and then to 275 and shows the white lines in the road flying by.
I certainly hope that this will shut up the non believers. The owner sais on the intro to the video that the 3000 GT is completely STOCK. His car is a lot faster than mine was stock.....I backed off at 160.
Well, here's the link:
OK, now that we have established that I am telling the truth, and one of you already got me the hood vent I needed, can someone PLEASE help me out and tell me how much HP 1.75 psi really creates? I can produce the psi without heating the air (supossedly).
I know that a lot of people hate to believe that they could have increased their HP by a large amount without spending a lot of money after they dumped a fortune into their cars, especially when it envolves mods that they thought couldn't possibly work, but you really can. After you tell me the rules and tricks that I don't know about psi boost and HP, I'll tell you about a very cheap mod that works as well as tuning your fuel/air map and advancing your ignition timing with an expensive piggyback ECU Module (OR a stand alone unit) and a lap top. I used it myself and watched my times drop and felt the extra accelleration push me back in my seat. You are really going to hate it.
A dude I knew in college recorded himself going just as fast in his 3000 GT. I raced him in my stock Eclipse GSX and was walking away from him at 120 mph. What the? He later admitted what everyone was speculating....HE SWAPPED OUT HIS GAUGES.
Your about as intelligent as a packet of mayonaise. haha your piece of shit
little n/a V6 isnt going to rev to 8K and if you make it somehow and it
does completely vaporize, It will make NO POWER up there. Way to far past
your power band.
And about doing a rear change, your cars FWD you tool.
NO thats just you lying. Your car wont run 184 in its current form, go to the Texas Mile or any of the simialar races and watch the cars and see how much horsepower it takes to go that fast. Earlier you said with 50 hp you hould be able to go from 184 to 200. Definetly not.
You repeatedly surprise me about how stupid someone could be.
I never thought that A/C was just as good as nitrous or an intercooler. WOW
I spoke with a head engineer at LOckheed marting about electric superchargers, and if they could actually work under any circumstances, he said give me a day. I came back and saw him and he had all kinds of specs and apparently to spin just fast enough to supply enough air to the motor ( as in not having the vacuum from the motor completely just overpower the fan) and barely push a tiny bit more air than the engine is sucking, it would have to spin at an insanely high speed. Then he had all the specs drawn up about power sources and fan sizes. His conclusion, currently, it is damn near impossible and if you did get it to work, it be impossible ot package any of it cause it be about the size of a blue whale.
Im a member on 3si.org maybe I can get some of them over here to read this bullshit haha
I can add 150 for under 400 bucks. Its called nitrous.
That's it...........I've heard enough from you idiots. I knew EXACTLY what
you were going to say before you even said it. And those guages are OEM GT
guages, anyone who owns a GT can see that. OH, and you can't tell he was
flying from the road shot? Forget it man, you are just another typical
internet Moron that if Jesus Christ himself came down and told you how fast
the GT is, you would swear it was Satan pulling a practical joke.
I didn't come here to try to impress anyone, especially internet forum types. I came here to get a little help finding an extra 16 MPH....THAT'S IT. I fiund a 3S Racing Club site last night that has all the answers I needed, so piss off.
My car's current form? You dont even know what my car's current for is you
moron, heh heh heh, what an idiot! I am so sick of your type, it's just sad
how you get together with other typical loosers and cut down people who are
just trying to get a couple of answers and go back to their real lives. If
you have over 1000 posts here you must not have a real life, because you
certainly didn't get help NOR give help on a 1000 problems.
Do you think the video is a fake too? Are you as stupid as that other guy? The owner of that GT was honestly trying to show you people how fast the 3000 GT really is in STOCK form, and being a typical forum moron, your guy says it is a fake.........the car is actually a little faster than that, it had TWO passengers in it. But I guess "seeing isn't believing" for you GODS of the FAST CARS. 3Si.org had no problem believing the video, I asked. You see, we all (DOHC 3000 GT owners) know we have great cars with huge potential, we get the thrill of driving one every day, and you'll never get to know just how great they run unless you drive one yourself.
Nitrous is a cop out unless you have tried everything else FIRST. Nitrous is really only for a car that has all the other mods FIRST, including either a turbocharger or a supercharger, just ask the pro's. Go to the SPEED CHANNEL and learn something. Or are they all liars too? The SPEED Channel had the owner of a Supercharger company go over all the different ways of getting more power with temp and HP and turbo/supercharger changes out of your car, and he told everyone that Nitrous is a LAST resort. I would take his word over yours any day.
As far as my car, of course I know it is a FWD, you MORON. I simply meant it would go faster if it was geared differently. I was also talking about cars in general and the gearing. You are a complete waste of time. and BTW, the video I showed you IS made by a 3S member, pfffffffft.
And as far as the A/C conversion, it works, just as I said it does. You are just another forum fool. I gave you the specs, anyone with a brain can understand them. The A/C feed drops the CAI's air flow temp by ANOTHER 15 degrees (70 CAI degrees and 40 A/C degrees together makes 55 INTAKE degrees), which is another 2.0% in power OVER the CAI's increase......PERIOD. So if your Nitrous or Intercooler is only getting you a 2.0% increase, YOU HAVE A CRAP NITROUS/INTERCOOLER SYSTEM......MORON.
MY car does 8000 RPM, I just told you I took it there yesterday. I usually only go to 7000 RPM, and you don't know dick about our powerband obviously. If the rev/speed limiters are still engaged you can't reach high RPM's. An OBD1 "Gen1" 3000 GT can easily have the speed and rev limiters turned off, and you can reach 8000 RPM then, just as I did. Don't try to feel better about yourself by cutting down people that you don't even know, you are so damned typical.....the exact reason that most people don't go to forums to be abused.
The eRam works......they have a race team that has been racing with it for YEARS. Even the race magazines say it works and @ 1.75 psi. So who are YOU who has done ZERO research (typical internet idiot) to say any different?And if you took the time to read the info at the website, you wouldn't have come here and spewed out your DRIBBLE. The 3000 GT will walk all over any other car with the same HP easily, that has already been proven time after time, I think you are just jealous.
You spoke to the head engineer at Lockheed.....yeah right, LOL. You would try to speak to him, yet not even go and do the research on the eRam, what a friggin JOKE.
And I don't believe that you are a member of 3Si.org, you don't have the vocabulary or decency (which they REQUIRE) to belong to it. You would have already been kicked out for THIS post right here, and I'm not kidding about that.......just go and read the rules of their forum and list.
Since this is my last post in this terrible, rude, obnoxious, and moronic forum, I don't have to watch what I say................SO PISS OFF, ALL OF YOU. I'll be the one watching you fall farther and farther behind in my rear view mirror on race day.
Next time try being a little nicer to new guests no matter if you agree with them or NOT. You show your age AND your lack of intelligence by talking rudely to newcomers. Just because you do not agree with them does NOT give you the right to be so damned rude......who do you think you are anyway, only YOUNG PUNKS do that. The REAL drivers will come to a forum, pose their question, get the answer, and go BACK to driving HARD and living their life. They don't sit around here for thousands of BS posts like you are doing. That's EXACTLY why I am out of here, I have some fast driving and a lot of crazy fun to do..........goodbye you fools.
i almost pissed my pants, never heard that one lol
OK correct me if I am wrong. You say you can get another 6% HP by routing
your A/C to you air intake? I know the numbers aren't going to be exact but
using even ones for simplicity...
1) 6% of 200HP = 12 HP
Now unless I am wrong doesnt it take around 8 HP + or - to run the compressor on the air conditioner,AND by running the A/C its increasing the ambient engine bay temperature?
2) 12HP - 8HP (not factoring in temp change in engine bay) = 4HP + or -
4HP is not going to give you any noticeble seat of the pants gain. IMHO this isnt worth doing.
Also if you are redlining that bad...it would probably save you money in the long run if all you care about is top end speed to change your gears...no sense in blowing your motor just so you can say you 200mph. I don't care who made your engine (unless its from a F1 or motorcycle) holding 8k rpms isn't healthy. So spare your powertrain and just change the gears.
Also dont forget an AC compressor doesn move even remotely enough air to keep up with the amount the engine is sucking.
Oh and this tool got all pissy and sent me a PM cussing at me.
Haha he kinda reminds me of small angry neon
ya he send me a pm also i was laughing my ass off
I didn't get an angry PM :ohcrap:.
Why didn't I get a PM? I think he was more pissed at me than you guys. I
feel sad now.