elchango: Finally finished his photoshoot!!!! (56k=ok)
So it's been over a year since I did a photoshoot and there's a good reason
for that. I've been really busy getting her to where I'm happy. And I'm
glad to say she's so much closer now than she was back in May of '06. Some
of the changes include complete new paint (finally fixed that rear panel
and rust), lip, wheels, sidemarkers, engine bay makeover, etc.
The Old Gina (http://www.car-forums.com/talk/showthread.php?t=22700)
Introducing the new Gina...
(click on images for 1024x768 res)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-alley-sears-center.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/f70acbd4.jp g)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-alley-sears-right.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/57efc32e.jp g)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-rear-alley-sears.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/3e16c0bd.jp g)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-one-6-garage.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/edb071d0.jp g)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-invisible-hood.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/ac7b2348.jp g)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-one-6-garage-close.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/EG-one-6-ga rage-close.jpg)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-Chi-Neon-glow.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/EG-Chi-Neon -glow.jpg)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-alley-dock-tilt.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/EG-alley-do ck-tilt.jpg)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-spillway-no-hood.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/EG-spillway -no-hood.jpg)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-Engine-outside.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/EG-Engine-o utside.jpg)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-Engine-Shot.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/a3797b43.jp g)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /Sunset-EG-Devils-lake.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/bee3164e.jp g)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-Spillway-2.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/EG-Spillway -2.jpg)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-Spillway-rear.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/EG-Spillway -rear.jpg)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-SIUC-night.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/EG-SIUC-nig ht.jpg)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/Forum%20pics /EG-SIUC-night-rear-.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/elchango36/EG6/Facelift/EG-SIUC-nig ht-rear-.jpg)
1994 Honda Civic VX
Home-made Short ram air Intake
DC 4-1 Headers
MSD SCI, MSD Blaster Coil, MSD 8.5mm plug wires, NGK plugs
SNL Twin-Loop Muffler
Flowmaster High Flow Cat
Custom 2.5 in. Exhaust piping from flex pipe-back
ACT Bronze Clutch
Polyurethane Engine Mount Inserts
Powdercoated Valve Cover Wrinkle Red with polished letters
NRG Carbon Fiber wire cove
H and R Race Springs
Function7 rear LCAs
Skunk2 front upper control arms
GSR front lower control arms (sway bars coming soon)
Wheels and Rubber:
15 in. Konig Britelites wrapped in Falken Ziex ZE912's (195/50R15)
NH0 Championship White Paint
JDM SH!t WWRS Style Front Lip
JDM Vision corners
JDM OEM Wing
JDM OEM Amber Sidemarkers
JDM OEM Gauges
JDM OEM Clock
JDM OEM ITR Shift boot
DIY amber defroster switch
GSR black Leather Seats
Full Black interior swap (almost complete)
Skunk2 Dual bend short shifter and Skunk2 weighted shift knob
Sony CDX-GT7100 Head unit with Ipod capability (Sony XA-110IP)
Pioneer 400W 4 channel amp
12 Kenwood 600W max subwoofer in sealed box
Kenwood 6’s up front, Panasonic 6x9’s in the rear
Comments Welcome! :wink2:
Not that it looked bad a year and a half ago, but it looks great now!
Looks awesome, but can you adjust the hood so its flush with the fenders?
It looks a hair too low. For such a clean, tight car, thats my only
Also, interior pics?
Looks very good what do the wheels weigh I need some cheapish track wheels for next season and i dont trust rotas (heard stories about them breaking on the track) and gramlites and traklites are too much $$ for my blood. Thanks and keep up the work
And new yorker a friend of mine runs some koseis for the track on his miata, they are pretty damn light and he pick them up REAL CHEAP.
Find some used gram lites. My buddy grabbed some to put the slicks on for the tC. 400 for a set of 4 in mint condition./
Gram Lites arent cheap to come about, especially in the lug pattern/offset
I want and size (I will probbably be running with a wilwood or brembo big
brake kit up front and some ep3 rear disks), so I am looking for a 16x7
with a 205 50 16 tire, and im not sure what offset it needs to be to clear
the brakes up front, plus the cost of tires (which I am still undecided on,
but either the re01, rt615, or re070, if I can get them in that size, the
re070 might not be made that small). Generally gramlites around here are
500-600 a set, at least. Kosei K1 are a very popular choice and can be had
pretty cheap, but it seems like everyone runs on them..I want a functional
wheel but I dont want to be like every other person at the track. Id love
to get the Enkei RPF1 because I think they personally look amazing, and are
only 13.5lbs IIRC in the 16x7, but they are a bit pricey, 199 a corner i
recall. I might have to go out to a few winter autocross events and see if
people are selling anything, and I am interviewing with a rather expensive
car dealership for a job hopefully saturday, they are interested in me, so
I will see perhaps they can get me some things at "dealer price" even
though I dont think they deal with any aftermarket...I might try to snag
that little sponsorsip out of them at least, if they can cover anything
even slightly I am happy with that, hell even one set of free tires per
season would be a world of difference seeing as a single day at the track
is 275, if you have your own helmet lol I can go on and on. I am just
looking at different setups right now, I have all winter to dwell on it,
and since I dont plan to do road racing this year I have the extra time to
practice more in autocross and get some attention. I will see how I am
doing mid season, if I can snag a 1.8 miata for cheap, I will just do the
wheels/tires/brakes/etc. on that instead, seeing as it would prove more
rewarding on a miata than my civic
sorry for block text, its late
You want something Cheap but you want to be diff. There lies the problem,
the cheap stuff that works is popular for those very reasons.
How large is the rotor you want to run up front?
Interior pics are coming as soon as I have some time to mess around with my camera. I took some pics but didn't like any single one so I'm going to do them over. As for the hood, I'll bring it back once I install the front "H" emblem I got for Christmas.
Thank you. The wheels weigh 12.6 lbs, they're a little heavier than my old Rotas which weighed around 10 lbs. As Enthusiast said, cheap and different don't exist. The cheaper the wheel, the more people rock them. Hence why Rota's and Drag wheels are so popular.
Yea I know lol its gona be hard. The HP brake kit is 12.5, says that it
requires a 17 inch wheel so thats out. I emailed my guy eddie, he still
hasnt gotten back to me about the wilwood and powerslot kits. A lot of
people say that even if I run with brembo blanks up front and EBC/Hawk
pads, and an EP3 swap in the rear with the same rotor and pad I wont get
brake fade anyway.
I found this as well, Dezod does a lot of work with cars that are usually "hard to find" stuff for, but its a bit much money
As far as wheels, its a pain in the ass because I dont know if I should trust rota and drag or not, I can get them for 300 a set through some connection, and the rt615 tires are 92 a piece from the same guy, g-Force r1 are only 168, and advan a048 medium or medium hard are 151 a piece, but they can only get them in a 205 55 16, I wanted to run a 205 50 16, I dont know how much or how little that will change the performance.
Then again I might be able to get away with a 225 tire on the track because Pocono raceway doesnt have any turns where I will hit full lock anyway, so rubbing shouldnt be too big an issue...i hope..cause wider with the same series sidewall the sidewall is still gona be a bit bigger, and I hope it doenst rub the perch on the strut, or rub in the back, I dont want to run staggered tires :(
Damn ElChingy Gina looks absolutely gorgeous! That is by far the cleanest Civic I have seen in a long time. :thumbs:
Thanks Steven! Nice to see this thread get back on topic:wink2:.
I Love the R1s they are a hell of a tire and provide TONS of GRIP.
Especially in the 315/35/17 flavor haha.
The a048s are pretty badass too, Ive never had much firsthand experienc with them as mostly import guys use them, but Ive read some reviews and they are probably right up there with the R1. Doesnt the elise come with them? Or maybe Im thinkin of the wrong tire.
A taller tire will give you a taller effective gearing. But theoretically there is only a ~10mm difference in height of the two size you posted, so I seriously doubt you would notice.
Id probably just go with whichever one I could get for cheapest, they are both going to be a hell of a tire and I doubt you are good enough to fully explore the slight advantage one may have over the other.
Only thing I am concerned about with the R comps is the wear time...I would like a set to last me about 7-10 track days, dont know how many laps I will be running, and I dont know if I should get them heat cycled or just slap em on
Well On the Red Demon he had a set of R6s and A6s (315 all around), and
with a 40 tread wear he actually got a lot of life out of them, from
everything to daily driving and track days. I think he did a few autocross
sessions but that was on the KDs I believe.
As far as I know now hes street driving on his R1s and he has never said anything about them wearing quickly, but then again I dont think he cares. Shit his brake pads (Panther Plus) rarely last past 10K miles.
Ill call him ask him tomorrow and see what kind of life hes seeing from th R1s.
Thanks, just shoot me a PM I dont want to clutter Chango's thread anymore
Thanks, I appreciate your concern.
the car looks great,
how much horsep0wer do you think you're putting out currently?
I know the car is light as hell (as long as you didnt replace the interior, but still its a hatchback civic lol)
if you lived in my town you would have by far the cleanest and believe it or not the fastest civic in town :laughing:
with the engine work I have to guess somewhere in the area of 160-180whp
maybe...if he got a smaller exhaust it would probbably feel and perform
better, those motors need backpressure, and 2.5 for the b16 is usually a
good size if you are running a bit of boost, otherwise 2 or 2.25 is just
fine, and that mere .25-.5 makes a big difference
chango, have you considered a lighter flywheel?? it lets the motor put down more power (frees up power that is usually lost), and since you are running most of your power in the higher RPM, and arent boosted it wouldnt be too big of an inconvinience in daily driving, check out the line of Exedy, ACT, and especially Fridanza flywheels they are good stuff. You on stock timing too?? Id save for some skunk2 cams, or something along those lines, along with adjustable gears, you will feel good gains with that, but youll have to run 91+ octane with the different timing, I think its worth it
Changing pipe diameter doesnt change back pressure only velocity.
feel free to use terms like inertia (and the moment thereof), kinetic energy and fluctuating torque.
I dont understand what you want me to explain...
the bit i quoted obviously, but in case your own writing doesn't make sense
can you please explain to me how a "lighter" flywheel will free up lost power, allowing the engine to produce more.
also how their would be "not too much inconvenience" in daily driving because of a lack of boost..... which leads to a follow up of why would there be more inconvenience if he WAS running boost?
Also, why does the fact that he is "running most of his power in the high revs" impact the "inconvenience" of daily driving, with specific reference to a lighter flywheel?
Since you seem to want to act so smart, why dont you explain it, since you do no real useful posting here, just try to confront me on shit. Thanks dipshit, I cant wait to read your post. Ive driven the different cars with the different flywheels, and I mean exactly what I say, I know its hard to understand for someone as intelligent as yourself. :rolleyes:
I can't explain it, because I don't understand it. That's why I asked.
I could explain to you my understanding of flywheels, but this would have no bearing on what you said, so it would be of little relevance here.
Sounded like you were just trying to nitpick my post
Here is a small post from another forum, the question was
Please discuss facts about ...about flywheel weight. I have researched, and found primarily that a lighter flywheel as opposed to stock will not make any change at all as far as power output - HP or torque. I've read no change will be seen on a dyno when comparing a light flywheel with a standard weight flywheel.
In my way of thinking, the rotational mass of the flywheel with the heavier flywheel of course will have more inertia than the lightweight one, and that inertia would contribute towards torque output in a positive manner.
People keep saying that you get nothing but benefits from a lightened flywheel other than the con of driveability due to the dampening effect being lost of the flywheel when dampening acceleration and de-acceleration.
From what I think a light flywheel makes the car "seem faster" because it gets the power output to the wheels quicker. I'm sorta against it. I think there are good reasons as to why lightweight flywheels are no good. I can only see it being good for counter-acting turbo lag.
A lot of autocross guys use them cause you can accelerate a bit quicker and decelerate a bit quicker, but as you go up the gears, the effect dies off. A lot of people have said that after 3rd gear (honda owners), you can hardly feel any difference.
Basically, it allows the car to rev a bit quicker, and get to the power zone a bit faster. There are negatives to this, and turbo guys usually dont get light flywheels, youll understand why.
With my car now, I can get off from a light even at 1000RPM with hardly any judder.
With a light flywheel, since the RPM goes up quicker, it goes down quicker, so I would have to rev higher to keep the RPM from dipping into the stall zone.
Turbo guys dont want this because since you have to rev higher, it causes traction problems.
a. you may try to take off normally from a light and hit boost (depending on how your car is tuned)
b. if you are at the track (drag) and are launching, you have to also rev a bit higher, and again you may hit boost too fast and just spin...this is a problem for FWD guys, probbably some RWD guys too.
Basically, as I always say, there is always a tradeoff to any mod.
A lighter flywheel wont harm your motor, but can wear your clutch out faster because you are always revving higher to get moving, and clutch slippage sucks.
It can be usefull in autocross since most of the time, you never get past 2nd gear (at least the ones ive been to)...my car hits 62 in 2nd, and on an autocross, you dont have room to hit that speed. Then again you have to remember that its going to cause a pain in the ass during daily driving.
Its the kinda thing that I can see being done on track only cars, because for them its a good benefit without the drawbacks of daily driving the cars. A lighter flywheel WILL increase performance, but not to a point where your car will be flying, so for a daily driven car, I say no.
The whole flywheel thing is one of those that is done by choice..some people will run them on turbo cars just fine and like them, others wont, its sort of a matter of preference
if you want a more technical explanation, i cant give it to you..i make my posts and advice and such based on the things i have heard (and in most cases then read up about on my own) or experienced (helping someone, driving a car, etc). In this case ive driven plenty of cars with different engine and drivetrain setups and my explanation and understanding only goes as far as Ive said, google will do you better with info.
I don't need a more technical response, I know the best part of the theory,
but I wanted to see some technical backing for your seemingly unrelated
topics of boost and flywheel.
I see there is some thought there, although I don't believe you need to rev higher with a "lighter" flywheel, just better control of revs. You're talking about having to rev higher because the revs will drop quicker (i assume you mean when you release the clutch). So boost shouldn't really matter, you just need to find the point in the rev range where de-clutching will result in your appropriate take-off revs.
And now I'm really concerned that you're contradicting yourself again.....
Why did you say it was something worthwhile for him to look at doing then?
Thanks nighthawk! As for hp I have to agree with newyorker, guessing
somewhere around 160-180whp.
Newyorker, I have considered a lighter flywheel, and opted against it. I've had the displeasure of driving a 99 Civic Si with a 8.5 lbs. flywheel and absolutely hated it. Yeah, it revved faster. It was also a pain to get moving from a standstill. If you let off the clutch like you normally would, you'd stall. You let off too quickly and you'd chirp. Rev high and let off, your putting more strain on the clutch which is bad. Rev high and let off quickly and you'd just sit there on a rainy day spinning in a big cloud of smoke. Chirping and burning out is not something I want to be doing at the stop lights especially when sitting next to a cop. I also don't want to mess up the amount of rotating mass that Honda engineers deemed necessary for the health and happiness of my motor. I'm fine with how my motor revs, I don't dread being stuck on an uphill. Lastly, I'm building another JDM B16A excpet this one's getting boosted. Some of the things I've spent money on on this motor I will also use on the boosted motor (things like transmission, MSD, valve cover, ...). So I don't really see a point to getting a lightened flywheel.
On the subject of timing, already looking to source some toda cam gears, but still deciding on cams though (not sure if I should get custom turbo cams made or if I will be able to afford them). As for 91+ octane, I already have to run that high an octane being as how it's a high compression motor that knocks with anything less.
Oh, and the exhaust has plenty of back pressure, that's what the twin loop is for. :wink2:
Nice set of wheels. Those are actually some pretty impressive pictures. Did you shoot them yourself or did you have a professional do them?
WOW, that's one hell of a compliment! Thanks! I took them and edited them
I could have taken much better shots if I had a better camera. All I could afford for my birthday was Sony DSC-H3. I really wanted a Canon Digital Rebel XTi.
You should get into photography, at least as a hobby. The way you used the
ambient light in the first 2 of pictures is actually pretty impressive.
Also the engine bay shot with the light subtlety reflecting off the valve
cover. The one where the car is reflecting off the body of water is a cool
idea, but you should have change the shutter speed so you don't get such a
reflection off the body of your car. But I assume you did that all in one
day so the sun was just at that point where you can not do anything about
it. Trust me, I know:cussing:
This months issue of Modified or Import 2NR (or whatever) has a JDM white hatch just like yours. I remember thinking, "Great, another issue with a JDM Honda. We get it, Honda's are cool and they are also sold in the worlds most overpopulated piece of land" (Not against you, I'm just sick of paying $30 year to see the same Honda over and over). But a few of those photos do look professional quality.
I've been using the Cannon S5 SLR for most of my photos. I originally bought it for my business, but it has progressed into actually shooting models with merchandise for catalog/online purposes.
Anywhos, nice car and great pictures.
Thanks DSMer for the wonderful comments, I really appreciate them. I've actually been wanting to get into photography for a few years now. I've just never been able to afford it. This is my first camera and I'm still learning how to use it. I think my photography skills are far from professional. Do you have any tips for an amateur such as myself?
Very good guide, for cars anyway
I'm no professional, I'm just able to afford some decent equipment. I
actually learned a lot of "techniques" , so to speak, from a photographer
that I hired to do a few catalog pictures. My best advice.... head over to
your local book store and pick up a few on photography. This is just to
learn your basics about aperture, exposure, light settings, lenses
Then start taking pictures. You have a digital camera, so just go nuts. When I got my macro, wide angle and zoom lenses I must have taken about 1500 pictures of just random things using different settings and options.
Thanks for the link newyorker!
DSMer: Thanks for the tips. I need your opinion on lenses and filters. Is brand name important? Sony makes lenses and filters for my camera, but they're really expensive. I have found lens and filter kits on ebay for cheap, but they're not Sony lenses. Is brand name important when it comes to lenses?
Like with anything else, you're always going to get what you pay for. Then
in some instances you're going to pay for more than what you get. Sony
"generally" makes good lenses, however I'm not a brand whore.
Check out This Place (http://www.dpreview.com). They have good reviews of cameras and camera related accessories.
aww man shes a beaut. nice job man