Looking for more acceleration.
Looking for more acceleration.
My 1992 civic hatchback has a 1.4L 16valve engine. I love this car, but
it's really slow...especially off the line. Once it gets into higher rpm
ranges it's not so bad. So I'm wanting something to give me a little more
torque, or acceleration.
My first thought would be a lightweight flywheel. Maybe open everything up
with some new headers and exhaust? I've also heard that higher compression
pistons will give me more acceleration, but i always thought those were
just for turbo setups. That's really all i could come up with. What else
could i do to increase acceleration? Any advice would be appreciated.
-Steve
stevewifferGood luck getting torque from that 1.4 without some intense work.
a. lightweight flywheel will help but I don't recomend them for daily
driven cars, will take you a while to get used to and will eat up your
stock clutch faster as well as burn more gas.
b. your car has a header, not headers.
c. exhaust will be loud and not all too beneficial
d. lower compression pistons are used on turbo setups
newyorkerha.... Alright then. Would any of the affordable engine swaps give me noticeable gains? Maybe a b16?
stevewifferA swap for you is the way to go, but I dont know what it will cost you
(havent dealt with hondas for a while).
I would say go for a B18, a B16 is just not too great a motor...well no it
is but the B18 is easier to get power from.
Where are you located?
newyorkerD series power all the way
EnthusiastI'm located in the Dallas-fort worth area. I have a d series right now...are there more powerful d series? A b18 wouldn't be to expensive. I'm thinking around 3-4k depending on my luck. I really don't know though.
stevewifferI thought your car had a 1.6 stock, not a 1.4...weird.
H22 swap. You will love it...if you have the money, do an H2B swap, google
it, your car will be running low 13 second quarters with just the swap (not
sure on numbers thats what i was told)
newyorkerThe H2B swap looks great. Seems easier to mount than the h22. But i'm a huge newb to the car scene, and there seems to be a lot of custom work involved in getting the h2b in the car with no problems(i.e. frame rail banging, oil-pan angles, etc.) But I figure by the time im done doing all of the research that i'll have enough money to buy the thing. :banghead:
stevewifferOh, and the stock engine may be a 1.6... but my dad had the engine swapped a while back, not for performance but just because something was wrong with the stock engine. Not exactly sure what's in it now, but i did find out it's actually a 1.5L(random?) not a 1.4L. Either way its slow.
stevewifferhaha yea but dont worry, the 1.6 wasnt much faster.
Just swap a B or an H series in there, or an H2B, you will love every
minute of it. Do suspension and brake mods to go with the extra power and
have fun.
newyorkercool, thanks for your help.
-steve :thumbs:
stevewifferI've got a B18B1 in my integra. Goes alright with the intake. I've driven a
B18C1 and it was a bit faster, never been in a B18C5 though.
I have however been in a civic with an H22A. Fully reccomend it. The car
screamed compared to any other honda I've been in. The motor ended up
blowing up. Went through a big puddle with an iceman intake, sent a rod
right through.
If you have the option I'd reccomend the H22 as well, but the B18s are
pretty decent engines. I've had very little trouble with mine in the
90,000mi I've owned it.
DBainSomeone correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the H22 motor have the most
torque of any other Honda 4cyl engine?
Definately go for an H22, buy the motor and trans, mounts from hasport,
axles (or you might not even need them), and youll have to do a bit of
trimming around the shifter area.
My friend has an EG that he bought as an automatic (coupe) and is now
running a h22 with full boltons and Hondata S200 or S200, whatever they
use. I can find out more info about the swap from him if you are
interested, and he is actually selling the car if you want to buy one thats
already done.
newyorkeryeah, im definitely going with the h22/h2b. Any info that you can give me on the swap would be awesome, considering I'm pretty novice.
stevewifferWhere are you located?? If you are semi-local to me, I can source you most
of the needed swap parts including the motor used for cheap.
edit: be aware that just the h2b kit is around 1600 last I checked, and
youll still need an h22 motor and b series tranny. Stick with an H22 swap
youll be happy as it is.
newyorkerYeah, i'm not going for the h2b...im pretty sure its aimed towards people
who already have a b series engine.
I'm in the DFW area, texas. So, assuming you're in philly....i'll probably
have to get all of the stuff myself. But i do need to know a few things.
First off...
1.) Can i use any H22 motor? (like this h22a type s?
http://sunrisejdmmotors.com/engine_details.php?id=7&page=1)
2.) What new parts will i need to buy, and what are the best ones to get? I
don't like being cheap, so lets just stick to the best.(new mounts? axles?
anything)
3.) are there any common problems i might run into that i can prepare for
early?(clearance issues?)
4.) should i try to get the engine locally...or order it from a shop?
Sorry for all of the questions, but like i said before, im a newb.
:tard:
Any help would be awesome.
stevewifferId say build the D series.
Get you some viatara pisonts, a z6 or y8 head, a crower cam, some good runs
and slap a turbo on that bastard.
I still want to build me a turbo d sereis.
Enthusiast1. IIRC you can use any H22 motor
2. Axles, Mounts, pedal assemblies, shifter, shifter linkages, ECU (not
sure on this one but my friend ran an integra GSR ecu on his for a little
while...p72 i think its called)
3. the h22 sits a bit lower than the d-series, i think its 4 inches
4. not sure, id say locally
newyorkerok, so i've been hunting around. Do i want the obd1 or obd2? I've been
reading that the obd1 is easier to modify than the obd2...and the obd1 is a
lot cheaper. So with that knowledge alone...i would normally go with the
obd1. But are there any advantages to the obd2 that i might like?
Also, lsd v. non-lsd. I cant really find a dumbed down definition of
lsd...so i dont really know which one to go for. Once again the non-lsd is
a lot cheaper. What is lsd going to do for me? Considering im going to be
driving this on the street the majority of the time.
stevewifferOK, as far as OBD goes my experience is limited, but I think the emissions
is different, OBD1 being easier to work with. I also hear it IS easier to
tune and work with so I would go for that.
As far as LSD, definately go for it. LSD will make it easier to drive in
the snow, and will make the car handle much better because it will transfer
power to the wheel with the most grip (usually the outside wheel)...my
buddy with the h22 EG says not getting an LSD transmission was the only
thing he regrets from the swap.
newyorkerOBD I is usually easier to tune but OBDII doesnt require the sniffer if its a 96 or later which can be useful for some people.
EnthusiastIsnt it even illegal to change OBD systems? I know here it is, so if you have an OBD2 motor in an OBD1 car its illegal and vise versa.
newyorkerFirst off, what's the sniffer? I guess I should find out what's legal here before I decide.
stevewifferI think its when your exhaust smells like fuel because you arent running a cat. I think OBD2 cars are exempt from it in the sense that if theres no CEL on, they can't fail you for not running a cat but im not 100% sure.
newyorkerhey hows it going. im in austin... dont go h22/h23 way to much work. if you
want minimal work, you could get a d16 (it would bolt right in) and you
could take the pistons form the d15. higher compression would give you more
power. then find yourself a vtec head. they came on the 94-95 civic SI and
the 1996-2000 EX civic. or for a little work go b20 with b16head
i dont belive it is illigal to change obd as long as you can pass emissions
tests.
mazda6manHow would d15 pistons work in a d16...wouldnt the bore be different??
newyorkerits the same block. honda doesnt change much. the only difference is the
stroke. ie rods and crank. bore is the same. i forgot to mention theres a
cetain engine of the civic with the d15 for the pistons you would need. i
forget what one it is. i want to say d15d1 but again not sure
oh also, another thing to raise compression would be to get a thinner head
gasket.
mazda6manok nm,found what i was looking for
D15B7 pistons in D16Z6 with D16Z6 head and D16Z6 gasket (pistons will be
about 0.028" above the top of the block)
compression ratio = 11.71:1
D16A6 has pistons with slight dish (not domed)
D16A6 pistons in D16Z6 with D16Z6 head and D16Z6 gasket
compression ratio = 9.96:1
yowzers! thats some compression. warning. something like this would need
superunleaded petrol
mazda6manThe sniffer is when they put an OBD1 car on the dyno and put an emissions
tester in the tailpipe and measuer hydrocarbons or whatever.
Yes they can fail you for not having a cat. You cannot legaly remove an
emissions parts that were installed on it from the factory and use it on
public roads.
EnthusiastFinally, thank you mazda man, D power rules
EnthusiastD series is ok... i like the b series but i am biased.
V-TecIve seen some pretty nasty D-series, but I think the B and K series are
just better starting platforms.
B20
K24/K20 frankenstein
K24
K20
B18
all great swaps to begin with, even without boost.
newyorkerI guess it just matters what kind of money one has. I guess D series can be the cheapest. B series is more expensive, and K series is the most expensive out of all of them.
V-TecI like K series alot, but they are too darn pricey. I really dont think you can beat the bang for the buck with a d series.
Enthusiastwell of course money is always what matters. d series is cheap and easy.
parts are found pretty much everywhere. *looks under a rock "hey a d series
engine"* lol ok maybe not everywhere but yeah.
k is cool, but theyre just getting so big. only k swap ive seen that i
liked was the s2000 engine in a corolla
mazda6manThat motor is called the F20c/F22c, not a K...K series are in accords, TSX, RSX, etc.
newyorkerH22? :ohcrap:
And about this bang for your buck discussion...i really dont mind spending
a little more money and doing a little extra work for a faster car with
more potential than the cheaper engines. I prefer it. As far as i'm
concerned, the h22 is pretty powerful for the price. Cheaper than a b18
...and much cheaper than those k20's.
stevewifferSure they call the S2000s 2.0/2.2s an F series but you know as well as I do its pretty much a damn K series.
EnthusiastI would go for an H22 swap. Then decide if you want to boost. My buddy had an h22 eg with a header, full exhaust, and intake, and it moves pretty nicely. He has a JDM h22 that revs to over 8 grand, MUSIC
newyorkerhaha oh yeah, my bad. ive been out of the honda scene for a long time now
mazda6manif you were to go with an h series swap, id reccomend a frankenstein of h23 with the h22 vtec head. never hurts to go bigger
mazda6manwhat does the frankenstein h23/h22 do for me? and what kind of hp and
torque does it get? just curious.
also...do i have to buy 2 engines...or can i just buy the separate pieces
of both?
stevewifferYou can buy seperate pieces of both, but its easier to buy 2 engines, get
all you need and sell off the parts rather than have to hunt down small
bolts and gaskets with the other option.
I say stick with an H22, you will be happy enough, trust me, ive driven
them :thumbs:
newyorkerjust like any swap besides your d series, you need not only the engine, but
the wiring harness, tranny, ecu, engine mounts new exhaust piping to link
it up to the manifold, and etc...
just an fyi
mazda6manYeah, if theres anything else...then please fill in that "etc..."
I'm pretty new to the car scene. :oops: Anything i can prepare
for...instead of running into during the swap, and delaying the process.
stevewifferhonda-tech is your friend.
V-Tecyea I should have said that pages ago, they probbably have whole DIY writeups for swaps :laughing:
newyorkerwell, when it comes to getting a new engine and trans. it doesnt hurt to get a new clutch and flywheel (doesnt have to be a pricy one, just a stock one wiill do.) also resurface the flywheel is a good idea. oh, you would also need the axels, im not sure if theyre different or not, but im sure a standard axel from a d series engine cant handle anything else.
mazda6manOh wow, lots of good stuff there. Thanks.
stevewiffer""My lug nuts require more torque than your honda makes"" :thumbs:
EPerkinsUntil you get the GSX, that is probbably not the case...and even then I wouldn't be sure
newyorkerIt was a joke. I really don't understand this in forums. Why is it always a competition of sarcastic remarks and "my d*ck is bigger than yours" attitudes?
EPerkinsBecause YOU come in with the "my dick is bigger than yours" attitude trying to mindlessly bash on Hondas. Pot, kettle, black?
newyorkerHey now. My dick may not be bigger, but your wife likes it plenty.
DBainIt was a quote that I saw on another site and I thought it was funny. I apologize for any emotional harm caused to honda owners but I would like to clear up that I was not bashing them I was simply copying and pasting a quote that I found humorous. Also, hondas are known for their low torque but the high revs and the vtech engines compensate for it along with a lot of import cars attempting to compete with torquey muscles. I did not say they were slow. The quote itself only commented on the low torque commonly found in hondas. But still, I apologize. And don't you drive a mazda anyways?
EPerkinsDoes me driving a Mazda make that quote any less ignorant? Didn't think so.
newyorker:orglaugh:
Spanky2324Okay. You win :thumbs:
EPerkinsAverage Torque needed for lug nuts= 80-90 lb ft
1988-1991 Honda Civic Hatchback
Displacement : 1,493 cc (91.1 cu in)
Bore and Stroke : 75 mm × 84.5 mm (3.0 in × 3.3 in)
Compression : 9.2:1
Power : 62 hp (46 kW) @ 5500 rpm & 82.6 ft·lbf (112.0 N·m) @ 3000 rpm [1]
Valvetrain : SOHC (4 valves per cylinder)
Fuel Control : OBD-O DPFI
EPerkinsIm sorry I couldn't find the 1992 1.4 stats. These were for the 1.5s. But
that is besides the point because the quote (which was not created by me
but by some other "ignorant" person) was not directed at this man's
particular honda. Yes the quote uses the words "your honda" but the word
"your" is used to be directed at honda owners in general. And yes there are
also hondas that put out more than 80-90 torque but there are also many
that are at or below that mark.
Ignorant-
adjective 1. lacking in knowledge or training; unlearned: an ignorant man.
2. lacking knowledge or information as to a particular subject or fact:
ignorant of quantum physics.
3. uninformed; unaware.
4. due to or showing lack of knowledge or training: an ignorant statement.
Because this quote has factual support..... well whatever....
EPerkinsYour Message
