I was wandering if ne1 could me info on the 4AGZE motors (like wat i have 2 do 2 them 2 get them North-south config)? or would i betta with a 13b turbo?
check your pm
wtf :confused: mazda6man, what is he talking about? 4AGZE? is the 13b the rx-7 motor? Im sooo lost.
yeah, 13b is an rx7 motor. 4agze is a supercharged 4age (the z means supercharged) and the 4age motor came in ae86 and ae92 corollas, and also the mr2... the supercharged one came stock in some mr2s
got it. makes sense now. thanks.
i would sujest that u dont us a rotor unless u r loaded they are quick but
cost a lot to run and maintain. a 4AGZE is a good choice but an even better
choice is a 4AGE turbo!!! u can buy crossmembers and gearbox mounts 4 a
4AGE as that is what i have done with my 1987 KE70 wagon. mine is not a
turbo but it isnt to much hassel to ad one, and i am planning to ad one
soon. the standard internals can handle the turbo but u will need a
custom manifold and a T-VIS injection unit for a good power figure. i hope
this has helped and that u will take my advice
P.S if you want to e mail me it is a mates e mail (as i dont have one) but feel free as he will pass it on to me.
whoa there guy! beg to differ on that.
Yea! Who says rotory is hard to maintain? Not any harder han a piston engine.
Rotarys are the way to go if you want reliabilty and power with a high rpm range. 13B comes in the RX8 as the renesis also. The engine will freely do 13000 RPMs If you have some sense youll read up more on the wankel(rotary) before you choose the reliable yota motor. Be careful as not to flood the rotary (only done with faulty parts or stupid people)
your an idiot :thumbs: :laughing:
Well, don't flood it OR let it run lean. Of course, many of the RX7s had
fuel injection probnlems that allowed them to do both. And dont' run them
hot, or run them low on oil (they inject oil into the combustion chamber to
lube the Apex seals, and if you let them run low, the seals aren't lubed.
But since they inject the oil into the combustion chamber, they use oil
faster than a regular engine will).
As for reliability, I know of a number of stock rotaries to go past 250k miles, but few of them are turbo engines and NONE of them are modded. Modded rotaries are STILL not reliable high power engines. And ANY rotary modded to spin up to 13,000 rpm is going to be a short lived engine. Just the nature of the beast.
well the rpm thing goes for any motor. at least there arent any connecting rods the get bent from the hi rpm load. we get a bobble effect. Racing BEat does offer a good balancing service for the rotors and eccentric. That would be the ONLY why i would left it go higher than the 10K mark without being scared the whole time.
i use a premix oil made for preformance fuel injection applications instead of using the OMP. Mostly because i didnt trust the OMP, the lines or the spider vac (which i didnt have) so i decided to just suck it up and remember to put oil in the tank when i get gas. Now i am running a 50 weight synthetic in the pan, seeing it just out of the breakin from the rebuild, i should be good for lubrication. Any thoughts though?
nothin like grave digging... pull old posts from the dead...