I am looking to get a system in my car. I was thinking about a memphis 500d amp two pioneer premire 12s and for a head unit I was thinking about a pioneer premire 770mp when it comes out. any sugestions comments
Don't get Pioneer subs, they're horrible. If you want lots of bass get 2
Kicker Comp 12's, they go for about $170CAD a piece. For quality you gotta
go Rockford, P212S4, they go for about 200CAD a piece. For an amp, I'd go
for an MRP-350 Class-D which puts out 350rms, which is plenty to pound
those two. The head unit you chose is excellent. The entire system should
put you down just under $!000CAD.
That's just a lower class system, from your first choice I assume you don't want to blow too much money. What's your budget? Then I can have an idea of what you can afford.
I am looking to put about 650 into a system in my car. I have a friend that can get me killer deals from pioneer. That is Why I am looking into their premire line. Its alot better than the normal pioneer line.
650 isn't very much for a system.. are you replacing the stock speakers
Personally I haven't really noticed any noticeable difference between the two Pioneer lines, just the name really. If you want go ahead and get Pioneer subs, wouldn't suggest it because they're quite a sloppy sounding sub, they head unit is a good choice though. When it comes down to it, it's whether you want to spend the extra hundred bucks and get good quality right now, or spend a hundred less and get decent quality then when you get tired of that, have to buy better ones.
Pioneer subs arent good at all (unless you get their record holding 12"
SPL...which is over a grand).
The guy who said get the COMP's over the Pioneer's isnt too smart when it comes to car audio...COMP's are just baseline subs with ultra small magnets and a small VC and really compete with base lines like the MTX 4000 series and RF P1/P2.
You want real good subs? Look into Digital Designs, Orion, Focal, Diamond Audio, Adire, PPI, Image Dynamics and such. Your head unit choice is good. Pioneer makes an excellent HU.
Memphis makes an excellent amp. But you need to look into Alpine, Kicker, Hifonics, Zapco, Monitor, Orion etc as well... All make very powerful, clean and reliable amps. Rockford Fosgate amps are horribly known for being unreliable nowadays and I have seen this to be quite true.
Comps are decent subs for the price, that's what I was stating. I have 5
subs ( 2 Rockford HE2 1 HX2, and two Kicker comp-vr's -- hits 190db)
pounding in my car and 8 speakers all running off 5 amps and powered by a
180amp alternator, with a 6500 headunit, don't care for MP3 playing units.
Everything is custom made by myself from the boxes to the amp mounts to the
dash kit. I know a good deal about car stereos.
Why would you name all the high dollar brands when he mentioned he only wanted to put 650 into the system?
If you're going to get speakers, look into concept, they don't handle bass, but your subs will take care of that, and they have excellent quality sound for the price, pair of 6x9's for about $130 on sale usually. You could also look into Alpine Type-S's, they're okay for the price too.
Now we all know you're full of shit. Stop lying kid. 190dB's is well above
the IASCA Audio RECORD and there is now way you can even come close to that
with 5 budget-midrange 12" subs when they are using custom made 18/24/30"+
woofers. You might be in the 150dB range pending what amps you have. You
have no diea WTF you are talking about when it comes to car audio or cars
in general from looking at other posts. I bet you have no idea how many
dB's it takes to make a system twice as loud as it was before. You charged
somebody $400 for an alt. pulley and $600 for an alternator for a
Jetta(obviously made the hell up when you can go to your local autozone and
get an alt. pulley for $50 and alternator for $100). COMP VR's are good if
you waste your money on $100 subs worth $40. Or, you could get a 12" DVC
Volfenhag for $50 and have dual 2.2" VC's, all aluminum construction,
140+oz magnet, and 500rms power handling (really 600-650rms). All those
brands have lower end models and can be obtained for a great value. Just
stop posting while you're as deep as you are... People on here aren't as
gullable as you wish we were.
190dB's...LOL still cant get over that... :laughing:
[QUOTE=88GrandPrixSE]Comps are decent subs for the price, that's what I was
stating. I have 5 subs ( 2 Rockford HE2 1 HX2, and two Kicker comp-vr's --
hits 190db) pounding in my car and 8 speakers all running off 5 amps and
powered by a 180amp alternator, with a 6500 headunit, don't care for MP3
playing units. Everything is custom made by myself from the boxes to the
amp mounts to the dash kit. I know a good deal about car stereos.
Just for kicks to prove my point...
Pioneer had a F250 in the Extreme 9+ class in 2003 with NINE 12" TS-W5000 subs (these things have 320oz magnets) and had 36 amps giving the big subs 115,000 watts of power (probably about 112-113k more than you're giving yours) and he hit 173.3dB's. So much for you hitting 190dB's with 5 budget/somewhat mid range subs...
Link to the TS-W5000s
IN reply to the comment bout pioneer pro speakers not being very good i would have to disagree with that, im running the TSD160R's straight from my HU and they give a hiding to many of my friends cars who have 6x9's in the back aswell as 6"s in the front. High quality sound IMO. they are a good buy to i think as other brands i have seen where $100NZ more for the same thing.
Pioneer Premier speakers are the exact same things as the regular line. All
they do is take the Pioneer logo off the dust cap and slap on a 'Premier'
emblem. Don't believe me? Check it out for yourself...notice they look
exactly the same and have the exact same specs. I'm not saying they're BAD,
just a complete waste of money when there are 25 other brand names that are
much much better.
Notice even how they have the EXACT same MSRP... :laughing: Such a good marketing ploy to trick people into paying $10 more for the same product thinking they are getting something better because it says 'Premier' instead of 'Pioneer' on it.
undefinedI have a 2000 Nissan Altima and recently put in 180 watt infinity 6 and a halfs. I am lookin to go top of the line...or atleast the limit to what my car can withstand. Im asking for help on the top 5 subs, remember money is not an option. The top amps would help...and im relatively new to the car audio so if u guys can help out a little on like settin me up with subs and tellin me how much amp power i will need, and compacitors and stuff. If i have to, I will spend 10 grand.Thanks
Oh no thunderbird1100 hes an expert at just about everything. Cars, Audio,
Performance.. I mean hes only been arround them all his life. But don't
mind me, HE's the expert.
190DB's Yeah right..., you should be slapped by and MECP just for saying that.
Some Rockford subs and a couple Kickers running off 5 amps 1 battery and a 180amp alternator. Pushing out 190+DB's.... Oh my god... :banghead: .
Woah, $10,000. You'd be better off going to a profesional sound shop waiving arround that kind of money. Try to shoot at a shop that retails Diamond Audio, JBL, RockFord Fosgate, Infinity, Kenwood, Pioneer, and any other high named audio brands. They usually will have alot of better stuff to offer than just the "normal".
Or you can go to some specialty shops that retail some of the underground brands as DD, Directed Electronics(PPI, and Viper), IDMAX, Eclipse, Elemental Designs, Resonant Engineering(May have to get some stuff ordered from Navada for this one), TREO, BA, MB, MMATS, etc... The list goes on and on.
Whoa, where'd 190 come from, 130 she hits. My bad. Only have 3 now, 2 more made no difference unless the trunk was open, didn't have enough air to push. Waste of power.
So wich is it 190, 160, or 130?
When will you stop lying and come to the truth? Like thunderbird said, we are'nt that gullable as if we can't see through your shit....
'Tis 130 you 'tard. Many systems have the capability of hitting that hard. I never claimed my stuff what top of the line, I wouldn't want it to be, almost all of it is hot anyway. Only thing that isn't is 1 sub and 1 amp.
undefinedI was thinking about getting 2 Pioneer Premier SPL 5000 Watt 12 inch subs. I want to get a Sony deck, they have nice LCD screen decks, but Im not sure which amps to get to power the 2 subs, and my 180 watt infinity 6 and a half inch speakers. Any suggestions?
I want the Sony MEX-5DI CD Player deck, as well as the 5000 watt spl's, is there a bandpass box or some other box rather than the one that pioneer offers to fit the subs into, and also i need advice on amps. Do you think that 2 5000W spl subs will be too much for my altima, if so what would be the most powerful system that wouldnt overpower my system, even with dynamats installed in my doors and trunk. Thanks
personaly i am somewhat of a pro and my advice for an amp
get a mono amp id recomend these brands first buy what u can afford and u will be happy
#1 choice a 1999 series us amps like a 400x itll run u 500 roughly on ebay if u can find one avoid the new ones there not nearly as great
#2 choice a ppi mono chrome amp
#3 an xtant 1001d if u can find one dont stray from that model
#4 audio bahn the biggest mono block u can find there rating have a little to be desired wattage wise so id get a 1500watt rms or higher
but rember a system is only as good as the weekest link
dont forget capicators 4guage wire or bigger and please invest in sound damping materal
theres a lot of good amps out there this is only my personal choice id stick with :2cents:
i have finally decided to go with the JL audio w7's, 2 of them and i will get the 1000W amp they offer, as well as a smaller one for the speakers. I will need capacitors. The head unit, im not sure, pioneer has a nice one for $680 that has 2 screens, and sony does too except its $799. Im also getting a rockford fosgate q-logic bandpass box. Anything that i should change or substitute items for this system, and also, is this system ranked pretty high??
Haven't looked into RE XXX's or Adire audio for subs? I'd take their top of the line stuff over W7's. Cheaper too.
what about the re MT's if i got 2 12" ones can i fit them in a bandpass box and what amp/s would i need to easily power them.
Bandpass box? Come on be serious. If you get two MT's put them in a nice 1" MDF 2.5-3cu-ft ported box.
Thats the problem with some newb people in audio. They assume ported is the
greatest because everyone uses it for high sound pressure levels. Maybe
he's trying to achieve a nice level of bass without rattling his trunk off.
Maybe he has a bandpass that will give hin the quality thats hes looking
for over a ported or ventedbox. Everything does'nt need to be vented. Many
subwoofers will work just fine in a bandpass or sealed enclosure.
Who the hell uses 1" thick MDF board anywhos? I've never see professionals use 1" MDF board except on extreme projects. Welcome to the real world, here we use 1/4" or 3/4" MDF, a 1" piece of wood is a tad bit excessive to house only two subwoofers.
Check the MT's parameters (assuming you know how to interpret them) and what RE recommends. I didnt assume ported was best by any means in my post. To me the XXX sounds better in a sealed box. How many SERIOUS audio competitors run bandpass boxes? I've seen none. Almost ALL top box makers use 1" MDF for their top of the line boxes ($200-$300). All pre-fabbed W7 boxes use 1" MDF (JL even recommends it, I've seen a W7 install where they did it with 3/4" MDF and after a few months it CRACKED). BTW- I'm no 'newb' to car audio, and it befuddles me to see you not realizing 1" MDF is the standard for top end sub boxes nowadays. I think YOU need to get a 'welcome to the real world'.
Again, you're using the excuse "how many serious car audio competitors use
X" to get a point. Well how many top fuel drag racers have 1000+HP engines?
Does that make it right for every person to own? Again.. you did "assume"
it was the "best" by telling him that its a waste of time to use a bandpass
and that he should go ported. Its not about what you think sounds nice, it
is'nt your car or your subwoofers.... Anyone with half a brain should know
that audio competitions are measured on decibels, and vented/ported subs
produce the highes ammount of decibels. So why would'nt they use ported
"ALL top box makers use 1" MDF for their top of the line boxes"
Sure about that? How many audio shops have you actually worked in? I'm assuming you've proabably met all sorts of top end box builders eh? Yeah, 1" the inudstry standard... haha my ass. Just because you see guys in magazines with $15,000 setups that have 1" boxes does'nt make it the industry standard. Compare the ammount of people with just avearage setups to extreme setups and you're going to get more people with just an average setup(that almost always requires a simple 3/4"). Its more common to find a 3/4" MDF subwooferbox. Hell I don't even have computer desks that are an inch thick....
You call what they use in competitions 'an excuse' as to why it's becoming what is the standard for something? Just read over to what you just rambled about, it makes no sense. Tell me then, what do you go by for the standard in building boxes for subwoofers that handle 1000+ true watts? Truely not by what professionals use in building their top of the line systems that do 150, 160 even 170dB's. According to you that'd be 'an excuse' to use what they use. I go to IASCA competitions and USAC (NOPI) competitions pretty often now, and I see what they are using all the time.
No its not an excuse, its your crutch for justifying why to use it other
than admitting the truth and saying "I don't know shit about car audio so I
just go on what I see professionals do". Wattage is'nt the greatest factor
when deciding on how thick to go with a piece of wood. It really matters
upon the size of the subwoofer and how much air can it actually move.
There is no standard, every box should be built to conform to the subwoofer and every subwoofer just does'nt need an 1" thick wood to house it. Even a 1" box can crack, it all depends on the builder and how they build it. You can't generalize a indefinite variable. Subs come in all different sizes, shapes, power ratings, etc... However, the most common size among audio setups are 3/4" MDF. That shit you see at the IASCA and USAC comps are all rich, fancy stuff. Your avearge audio guru is'nt going to have a 10,000 audio setup. Nore will they always use 1"MDF. I happen to work with a girl who holds the record for one of the loudest sport compact car in the US(she has an Eclipse GS-T). She used a series of 8 8" RE subs housed in a 3/4" ported box. Her level was somwhere abover 160DB's I don't remember the number, but 1" is'nt always the best application.
I'd have to warn some people take wieght into consideration of what goes into their trunk permanently. Not everyone wants a 250lb 1" box in their trunk...
Haha, a quarter? What kinda subs do you power? Run them off your HU? No one
ever uses 1/4", the smallest you will ever see is 1/2".
3/4" is by far the most common, but, you're missing the point Thunderbird is trying to make. No matter the case, 1" will always be better than 3/4", 2" better than 1".. the bigger the better, it's just an issue of practicality. Tbird is stating that 1" is better than 3/4", which is very true. It would only add probably another 10 lbs to your whole set-up so it's nothing very big either.
Also, every sub has a box they sound best in. For MTX I believe it is indeed a ported box. Usually it will state in the manual for the subs which is recommended.
That 1/4" should be 1/2". I'm glad you caught that. Thats common simple
mindness. If its bigger it should be better. A 1" box is'nt better than a
3/4" when all you need is a 3/4" box. You can't just say cuz its bigger its
automaticly better. Thats just not true.... Using more than you need when
its not needed is not better, its called a waste of resources.
Why run a 2 gage wire when you only need a 4gage?
Box's job is to deaden the sound passing through it, and to make a better
seal, doesn't take much to push 3/4 to its limits. I've seen 10's actually
bend 1/2" boxes (as in.. when they pound the sides of the box would buldge)
so that means it'd be pretty close to pushing 3/4, so why not just go 1",
you can't go wrong. I do agree though, it's not necessary most of the time,
but it will always be better, maybe almost impossible to tell it's better,
but it will be.
Goddamn pigs just gave me two tickets, those ****ers.
I think that in this thread a few people got served, but only a few got the answers they wanted becuase there was so much bickering going on. You both know what you know, your probabaly both professionals with 2 different professional opinions. Altought i must say that hunderburd has helped me a bunch with my car audio and waws definitely right about the choices to make.
Now I remember why I dont make a point with you -> :banghead: .
say im getting two audiobahn 15 in. subs with a peak of 4,000 and a RMS of 2,000. what would be the cheapest amp setup to push them.
NO!!!!! Audiopawn makes shitty stuff. They arent called chrome turds in the audio world for nothing. What's your budget for subs and i'll point you in the right direction.
i just want two 15's with at least a max of 3,000 watts each.
i would spend no more than 300 each on them.
i have no idea what kind of amps to get.
Wattage doesnt mean shit. Some subs sound better with 300rms than others do
with twice that power. It's how efficently the sub uses that power.
You could get some Digital Designs DD3515d's (what i have) for 300/piece. Some others to look into: Adire Brahma, Eclipse Aluminum, Image Dynamics IDMAX, Resonant Engineering XXX, Ascendant Audio Avalanche and Orion H2 are a few to start out with. As for amps, well, we'll get their after you pick a sub setup.
I think I'm gonna go with the Digital Designs 3500 series 15'" subs.
Now to the amps.
what website could I get the DD3500's, I can't find 'em anywhere but on the DD website.
You have to buy direct from DD. You'll pay about 30-40% off the listed MSRP
price. If they try and sell it to you for MSRP tell them you wont pay that
and they SHOULD take the price down 30% at least. I personally have the
DD3515d's, you'll love them.
OKAY, amps... Since each DD3515d can handle 1000rms I'd throw them in a vented box (tuned to 45hz) and give them 2.5-3 cu-ft each to play with. As for powering them, look into getting a Hifonics BX1800D mono amp giving them about 900rms a piece. www.onlinecarstereo.com has this amp for an INCREDIBLE $299 (this amp has an MSRP of $800 and is worth every penny at that price). I'd pick it up fast for that price, they wont last long (reason why price is so low is because it's last years model).
head unit? I need it to play MP3s
Look into Eclipse (5000/8000 series), Alpine (9830 series), Panasonic (8000/9000 series) and Pioneer (800-900 series). All are about the same feature wise. It's up to you which one you like asthetically.
Thx a lot for all your help, I was one lost 14 year old in the way of car
what kind of enclosure should I get thunderbird?
Ported definatley. You really should build your own (it's not that difficult). But if you must by pre-fabbed get an Obcon or SubZero box.
Hey Short. So far you have the right idea. Go to as many forums as you can. The more non-idiots you talk to the better. Since money is not an object you need to decide what kind of system you want. To me it sounds like you're looking for a system that will not only sound bad a$$, but will turn some heads and piss off the neighbors. There are alot of car audio companys out there. I would suggest Eclipse (by Fujitsu Ten) or you could go with JL, Kicker, Alpine, Audiobahn.... DO NOT get sony, pioneer, or kenwood For what you want to do it would just be a waste of money. You want to make sure your amps have class "D" circuitry.... gosh, if you're serious about this e-mail me, otherwise id be here all night. Put some thought into it.
you better be ready to lay down some serious cash if you want to push two 2,000 watt speakers. If you want cheap go to Ebay (of course).
I have an even better idea. He could enlist the help of audio professionals at a professional audio shop INSTEAD of listening to said idiot on an internet forum such as yourself. I think that solution works alot better than taking you're advice about what to get and what not to. For all you know, he could have no idea was a class D amp is. For all I know, you could have no clue either... Either way it goes, if he was serious about spending that much money (Wich I can assure you he is'nt) he'd allready be on his way to "X" audio shop to get the help his thousands of dollars are warrented...
Are we talkin about the same stuff. I said audiobahn, you said
Yes, same junk from the same company. They've earned that name, cheap shit they slap chrome on, overrate it doubly and then charge triple what it's actually worth.
Im new at the whole car audio thing, but a friend of mine gave me a 12" infinity, and i wanted to know if it was worth trying to get it fixed somewhere. And if so where should i go to get it fixed? My friend said he has no idea why it doesnt work.
yeah, I knew the amps would cost a lot, but I've changed my mind.
I'm getting the 15 in. Digital Designs 3500s that thunderbird helped me out with.
The Hifonics amps aren't that bad when it comes to price.
Hey thundurbird you told me to get a Volfenhag 12 aluminum. After consulting my dads brothers co-worker (owns a chain of car audio stores) he said Volfenhag was excenllent, i just got mine in yesterday. SO thats where i begin... I only have thatn 1 12 and im gonna get my obcon enclosure soon (any specific model u recommend). Now the amp, you said get a HiFonics, so if i only have that 1 12 and my replaced stock speakers in the front door and rear deck which amp should i get, if possible any model you recommend, (in total there are 4 replaced speakers plus the sub)
Go Alpine Hu, Jl subs and amps, and mb quards mid range. monster cable for
and do the research for yourself. dont go to a shop and ask for their help and expect them to be honest. i have worked in audio retail (i was in home audio) the best to them is what pays the best commission. do the research. then go around to the different retailers. talk to them. after you do your research you will know who is fulll of shit. find out any more info you can. then decide on your purchase. if you have a friend that knows car audio then have them help. the worst thing you could do though is flash a wad of cash at a retailer and expect them to "hook u up" cause all they are going to do is hook u up with "their" most expensive shit. dont go to fry's. all their stuff is mid range. good guys caries mb, jl and alpine. alpine is arguably the best hu manufacturer. as far as sound is concerned. speakers i havnt found a company yet that get as solid reviews. every seems to have a different opinion.
Box - http://www.cardomain.com/item/OBCGZ31812 Would work good with it.
High quality box (3/4" MDF) and it's on sale right now ($69).
Amp - Hifonics BX1000D would work perfect with a single 12" DVC Volfenhag (wire it to a 2-ohm load from the Dual 4-ohm VC's to get 500rms).
www.onlinecarstereo.com has it for $239
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13120< br />
I know you take the two wire leads from the HU and wire them to the input
part of your x-over then wire one set of wires to your tweeter and one set
to your woofer from the ouput side of your x-over. I have a 98 accord with
6 factory speakers. I was wondering whether the factory sytem has a
crossover (so it would be two wire leads), or whether the wiring harness
has additional speaker wires for the tweeters, or if the wires double some
were to accomidate the tweets. Any help would be much appreciated!!!
You can get better deals on eBay for amps/subs than from any company. You
can get the Hifonics BX1205D for about $225, that's where I'd suggest
buying your stuff.
thunderbird1100, I'm interested in Volfenhag stuff, I'm bored of my Kickers, right about now, I wanna jab a fork through them right about now. I'm not looking to spend a lot of money at the moment, for I'm painting my car by the end of this month. I know I can get two 12'' Volfs for about $80 + shipping (gives you an idea of what I'm willing to spend right at the moment), I just don't know anything about the company. Could you lead me in the direction of which of their subs are the best quality, bass isn't an issue to me, I'd rather quality over bass anyday. Or a different company even? Quality > Bass
I never liked Ebay and you can find audio stuff at onlinecarstereo.com or
ikesound.com for just as cheap. Plus you know you WILL get great customer
service and have at least a 1 year warrenty buying from those places (on
top of knowing you wont get scamed).
Volfenhag is a VERY known company in Europe (German brand, known as 'The German Concept'). They arent very known here in the states which is kind of cool to me since that makes them sort of 'sleeper' subwoofers. An interesting fact is that a company called Performance Tekniques makes the same exact woofer as the Volfenhag DVC red aluminum. These are more SQ woofers than SPL which is just up your alley. The woofers in particular I'm speaking of are these...
You can get the 12" at ikesound.com for only $49. I recommend running a Hifonics BX1000D or that newer BX1205D to them (1ohm load).
u all are so stupid. you think that you have the best but you dont. Wait
till you start getting the big stuff like me. I have 4 solo x12 with 8
amps.2000w appeice. The system all together is 16,000 watts. None of you no
anything. you all think you have 150. db but you dont because all your
stuff is shit. and its all probably bought from best buy.
you all are so stupid.
Yes, they sell Orion, Digital Designs and Diamond Audio at Best
Metered the DD's at 151-153dB's on the dash several times.
Although I'm pretty sure you're lying...
A. Because you cant spell worth a 3rd grader
B. Because you put general stuff down like '2000 watt amp' when any self respecting audio nut who owns a supposed $4k worth of Subs alone would say WHICH amp and list it as RMS.
But if you made the plunge in buying those worthless subs have fun replacing the cones every 3-6 months.
i hit 250 db and i is true u ****en idiots. i will kill u all with my subs
And now is when you leave these forums since now you have zero credibility.
thunderbird u are gay cause i have the best subs. i have two jackhammer in my hummer. that is 24 thousand watts dumass.
Holy 24 thousand watts, i didnt know they could get even close to that high. Where did you get the money to buy a Hummer and a system like that? How old are you?
make up your mind weiner ..... is it 16 or 24 kW?
if you're going to spin BS, at least make it consistent BS.
rofl this guy is full of shit, a 747 taking off, or a rocket launghing is 180 decibels. 200 decibels will make u straight deaf. which makes anyone standing withint 150 of his truck deaf as well as him with his 250 decibel bullshit...
lmao this guy is so full of shit he made me cry, he;s obvisouly not out of the 6th grade if he never uses a period and spells dumbass wrong, which is a word every flamer uses at least 39 times a day.
250dB's would probably peel your skin off, literally. It would surely bust
your ear drums in a millisecond and explode your eyeballs. This guy still
hasnt taken my advice that he now has zero credibility and just needs to
leave before he digs an even DEEPER hole.
Pioneer had an F250 they did with 9 12" Pioneer top of the line SPL subs and ran about 115k watts in total and hit 173.3dB's. He wouldnt even come close to that with 4 18" subs and 15k, 25k or even 50k watts of power. At best with 25k watts and 4 18" Solo X's you probably wouldn't see above 163-165dB's.
is it just me or are the jackhammers not for public sale yet??
yeah, that guy is full of BS in regards to 250dBs with 2 subs, especially at that low of power. you would need at least 200kw worth of power, and somewhere in the range of 20-30 subs to even try to beat the world record. The Pioneer SPL truck, as thunderbird mentioned, holds the current record, and look at how many subs and how much power it took to get there...
thats not even going into the space, or how to get that much power for that many amplifiers.
@tbird - exact wattage of the truck is 115,200
i own mtx audio dumass. i have the best system around you all are full of shit. suck my penis ****ers.
I have a feeling you arent going to last much longer on these forums with all your lies, horrible grammar and language.
He should just give up. Obviously noones falling for any of it. I also didnt know MTX was the best either, i guess i was wrong :screwy: . "Suck my penis"? Isn't that what'd you'd like? Sorry man but this isnt a gay bar here, i dont think anyone here will do that, or they could atleast find better. :wink2:
i have the best and i will challenge any of you. you want to try me go ahead
go home buddy :stupid:
This reminds me of an old thread i saw with -What- challenging people to a rap (freestyle) battle, except this is a sub/sound battle, or atleast i think it is. :banghead:
yeah, but you still contradicted yourself ... you gave two values that were
totally different for your power output (or rated capacity more likely).
I've got a mate who is an acoustic and vibration engineer. I might ask him for some details about dB levels and their effects. Then I'll get back to you with some solid data, not just speculation that you're full of crap. I'd much rather prove it beyond doubt. :thumbs:
Im really scared
i dont have crap and you ca find out if you challenge me dumass. i will tear your shit to shreads with a my bass.
you all are so gay because you dont even have subs i think i would no better than you would if you did. so you all are fist ****ers
You just dont get it do you... you're a nOOb who ruined your credibility
within TWO POSTS (probably a new record). Stop lying, stop saying you "no"
(*KNOW* you asinine caribou) better than all of us and finally stop posting
on these forums... It's for you're own good, leave now before you are...
Wow, you really like the gay and f*cker thing dont you. For one i thought i told your mom to keep the fist thing secret, and for another i have seen/heard many different systems (and i KNOW the other people here have to) and what you saying it GREATLY unlikely, especially coming from you who has no credibility anymore. Give us one reason why we should believe you, i think everyone here would take back what they said if you could PROVE yourself. If yours are really that good then i cant wait to see your name in the next Guiness Book of World Reconds.
i don't know about that record, I think CAREXPERT beat him
I don't care, just shut up
Ok, read this and then tell me if you still want us to believe you:
The National Campaign for Hearing Health's Toxic Noise Guidelines (exposure times and decibel levels that cause hearing loss)
85 dB 8-hour period
85 - 90 dB 2-hour period
90 - 100 dB 1 to 2-hour period
100 - 110 between 2 and 15 minutes
110 - 120 less than 30 seconds
130 dB ANY EXPOSURE WILL RESULT IN PERMANENT HEARING LOSS
ps: I didn't make this up, it comes from http://www.lowertheboom.org/trice/safedblevels.htm
I don't really care if you've got big subs (compensating for something maybe?), but if you're going to try and abuse people, at least do it with something slightly resembling fact.
Anyone else agree?
ya but you guys dont even know. you dont know about subs or amplifliers. i build them and i can easily make one. you all are dumasses cause you dont even know what you are getting yourselfs into when you deal with me. oh ya i cant get banned dumass.
It's true that 130dB's is the threshold of pain for hearing...although many upper class systems do reach the 150-160-170dB range. I've personally never seen/heard of a system (in a car) breaking into the 180dB range. 250dB is absolutely absurd and we all know he's lying straight through his probably crooked teeth.
Just stop lying, you already violated my first rule!!!
Really? We'll see about this, check the General Chat threads in about 15-20 minutes from the time I post this...
Okay you retard, if you had 250 db's then how did you not go deaf when you turned the stereo on and you're gonna get banned buddy :fu:
Go to the General Chat section, I just posted a thread on him alone...
Speak out against him.
That goes for everyone who doesn't want to see johnk2k around here anymore; go and speak out here...
if your so damned great john2k, what are the main components of a
subwoofer? that should be something EASY for such an EXPERT like you to
Five bucks says this twits 16 years old, and has a stock stereo, or some no name bargain basement bullshit setup.
Try again john2k.
I've got 20$ on my first stereo that I bought at 16 beating whatever the hell he has! (oooohhhh that sounds like such a penis war lol)
... and another challenge: what's the difference between dB SPL and dBV? And if your response can be found by anyone else by google-ing it, then you lose.
cant forget SQ either.
You all know he cant answer ANY questions you ask him. I agree that he's probably just some young kid trying to 'show' off. The only way (and even this could give him trouble) he could possibly build an amp (from how he talks, he may not know what an amp is) is by putting the case or a dust shield on it. I vont see how he's helpeing/helped here so if he could be banned then he wont be missed.
im back ****ers. did you miss me. i told you that you could not bann me. oh ya i know alot more than all of you do about subwoofers. i do hit 250 db. you all can come listen to it. Untill you do stop talking shit.
Why hello again, you must really like us all. Where about are you located then incase we do decide we want to here. I dont think anyone will really stop talking 'shit' and as for you knowing more about subs, can you tell us atleast ONE thing that most people here wont know? Probably got me beat, i dont know audio, so thats 1 down, everyone else to go. :mrgreen:
Well that made sense :screwy: We're the ones talking shit :laughing: You would be going deaf with that many db's so do the math :evil:
prove it ... until then, stop talking sh!t yourself.
all you do is say "i know more" - well tell us some of what you know, then we can give you the respect you've earned with your vast, vast knowledge of car audio systems, or as you like to call it "subwoofers". (I reckon 250dB would sound good with only subs :screwy: )
Do you mean 250dB /5? That would probably be more accurate there buddy. 250dB would make your head explode(well, at the extreme end of the scale...but for sure your ear drums would be shattered)
180 db is a rocket blastoff i believe. That would make you quiet deaf...
well you can come listen to it when ever you want. i live in Florida and i will prove to you all that i do hit 250 db and stop talking shit why dont you come down and listen. until you do you still know nothing.
Well, given that the world audio record for dB is somewhere in the 190dB
range... and 250dB has doubled the noise level 6 times (read it again...
and think about it)... 250dB is sixty-four times as loud as 190dB. So,
any exposure to 130dB will cause permanent hearing damage... and 250dB has
doubled the noise level 12 times over 130dB (read once again) 4096 times
as loud as the thresh-hold for permanent hearing damage.
Noise level doubles with every 10dB... so... We'll say our starting noise level is X. So, at 130dB we have X amount of noise. Then at 140dB we have 2*X, then 150dB we have 2*2*X, and so on... at 190dB we have 2^6*X (2^6 = 64). Continuing on our little journey from 130dB to 250dB we get 2^12*X (X still being our noise level for instant hearing damage) which equals 4096*X. So, you expect us to believe that your car creats almost Four-Thousand-One-Hundred times the amount of noise that is necessary for permanent hearing damage...
Sorry... we're not all as stupid as you want us to be... I hope you're enjoying your miserable little existance.
You know, if you really spent all that money on your system, I'm sure it'd be pretty easy to put together a video for all of us to prove what you're hitting. Even better yet, some pics maybe? So how about, until YOU provide any kind of proof, shut the hell up, grow up, and get a life.
how are you going to prove it? what do you use for measurement?
Well if you go deaf and get permanent injury (and needed medical attention) then he want lying :ohcrap: . Hey 99integra (if you look at this) you should check it out lol, you may be around there. :mrgreen:
If he has as much money as it would take for a system like he's claiming, he could easily get a db gauge, put it on the dash, turn his system on, and take a pic of the gauge to post here.
well, its highly unlikely, but there is outlaw...subs that hit 140 in comp have done 170+ in outlaw(seen it happen!)....but you would have to have the world record holding vehicle in straight comp to even dream of hitting that in outlaw...
*notices his lack of posting*
Where'd he go since we asked for proof?
It seems to take him a couple days. I think its cause he's trying to think of a come back, or another way to tell us to go to florida and listen for ourselves of we want proof.
Or maybe he's busy working on the car to add another couple of dB's :laughing:
I don't honestly see what good it's going to do for one of us to go listen to his stereo system. Has anybody every listened to a car drive by and immediately known that it was 98dB (or whatever). It's not like a color, you can see a color and know what it is. You can't hear a tone and know how loud it is on a dB scale.
No, you wont know for sure but you'll have a rough idea he is right or close if it makes you ears bleed, eyes burst and you start convulsing..... oh and cant forget the part where the car just falls apart from vibration. :laughing:
And that's just the simple stuff lol
im still here and if you want proof i will give it to you. until you ask then shut up my car is the best and i will prove it easily. so shut the **** up you stupid ****ers. you all dont know what the hell your talking about.God you all are so stupid.
Ummm.... we have asked :ohcrap: .
HA HA HA!!!
We have asked several times, then all you can do is say "I do know, and you guys are ****ers with no idea". You cannot support anything you say. We ask you questions that you are not smart enough to answer, and you just repeat yourself and hope that by trying to sound tough (it's really not working) you can force us to think that you're cool.
I thought there were some dumb people on this forum, but I think you're the worst. Maybe you're a cool guy, maybe you're not, but I am quite certain that you are not very intelligent. Maybe you'll grow up one day.
Hello all, hope you don't mind if I stop by to drop some bombs on the 250db wonder boy :laughing: Anyway, wonderboy, would you please tell us the sensitivity of your subs that it only takes 24kw to reach your seismic testing volume. That range is achievable, but I believe never before in air. Some submarines use sonar that can "ping" that loud, but sound transfer through water is much more powerful, as water is a better conductor than air. In order for your system to reach 250db with a meesly 24kw, your subs would be sporting a spl 1w/1m of around 200db, you gain 3db of output for every time the input signal doubles. i.e. you gain 3 decibels when you go from 1 to 2 watts, and 3 again when you double to 4watts of input. If you infact are pulling off this more than impossible feat, call (guiness <--sp?) until then, bug off, everyone else on this thread seems intelligent and serious, why be the black sheep, there are places for your input, and this doesn't have the feel of one of them.
Vehicle: 96 T-bird LX 4.6l OHC modified breather box w/K&N. est. HP ~250
Head Unit: Pioneer Premier P960 MP WMA/MP3
Amps: Soundstream Van Gogh 1600.2 and 320.4
Full Range: Alphasonik 800 Series 5 x 7's Front and Rear
Subs: 2 x 12" Audiobahn Flame Q in Computer Optimized Slot Vent Enclosers tuned at 37Hz.
Max recoreded SPL (designed for mid quality SQL) 142db
Dual battery system; Optima Deep Cycle isolated with 200 amp continuos duty DC contactor. tripped by it's own relay, which is tripped by a relay that turns on amps and all neons that light trunk to show subs.
I have been playing with car audio as a hobby for 12 years.
Now, it's past my bed time, so bye for now. :thumbs: :sleep:
Wow :tard: That was a helluva lotta information, and thanks for dropping another bomb on him. :laughing:
Nice car and stereo (although I'm not a huge Audiobahn fan at all
:laughing: ). My friend sports a 95 LX T-bird with a simple 2.5" cat-back,
warm air intake, 70mm TB (i believe) and new plug wires. All he has as far
as stereo goes is a Panasonic CQ-C8400 and 5x7 Alpine Type-R's (F/R). It's
pretty good sounding (I love the Panasonic HU's) but he needs to amp the
My system(s) are down in my sig, well one is the other is in my 300zxtt but was too long to list in the sig so if you're interested in knowing just ask.
BTW - I've always wanted to know how the Alpha 800 series compares to everything else. I was looking into putting the 800 series speakers into my 300zx but went with alpine instead because I know they sound good. Also have you ever heard an Alpha 800 series woofer? Because I had a deal to get a 15" 800 series for only $160, instead I spent about double that on an Adire Brahma (a better sub no doubt, but twice the cash and i probably could of did just ifne with the 800).
I absolutly love the warm sound from the 800's but the solid state tweeter protection cuts the tweets out just before my ears start to bleed, I think this is to early. Once installed, there is a noticable gain in sound quality bass guitars were much more detailed and even the slide of the players fingers was smooth and in place. The only problem was the tweets, they sound beautiful till they cut out, I'm running 80 rms per Alphasonik and the tweets cutout about 70 percent volume. The Mid-Woofers run with extremely low distortion all the way up. I didn't care much for Audiobahn till year before last, I got to play with a High Excursion Series, Put it in a Competition SPL Box with .02 Port Mach and run 450 watts into it (this was in a Geo Tracker by the way) and got out staggering from jarred static equilibrium. Then, last year I moved up to a 10" Immortal and hit it with 1800 watts (2 x 900watt mono's) and managed a 138db @ 45hz. So I thought I'd try some Flame Q's, and for anyone who hasn't heard these things in a proper box, I reccomend you check out the SQ. I have a flat pass from 22hz-150hz. There is a noticable SQ loss when each sub is receiving higher wattage than they need to peak... about 800, but up to that point, they are the closest to audiophile I have ever used and for the price it's hard to go wrong. :thumbs:
Simply put and to the point, Brama's would bully the Alphasonik :hi: , but The sound quality would be comparable. Have you checked out the Soundstream XXX, 8500rms 15" with your choice of coils. I'm going to try a Mayhem 900 Series 12" Alphasonik, they say it can hold 2200rms... We'll just have to see about that! :laughing:
ya ask me any question and i will prove it to you all. and that other kid was wrong who was talking about the submarines. he was makeing up that bullshit. i am always right.
Making up all that stuff huh? Well "John", here is a link to a government
document that gives specifics, and giving your bad grammatical skills, I'm
betting you won't understand most of it, but I figured I'd out gun you and
supply "proof" :laughing:
Scroll down to page 5 of 11. The pages are marked on the left with small font, either 8 or 10 point, not the large bold number... Think you can manage that?
http://22.214.171.124/search?q=cache:4O20rMqmXzQJ:www.deh.gov.au/cgi-bin/epb c/epbc_ap.pl%3Fname%3Dshow_document%26document_id%3D601%26proposal_id%3D107 +Sonar+250db&hl=en&lr=lang_en
And here is another link to back up the previous one.
And While I'm at it. You have been asked questions, I asked for the sensitivity of your subs? I'm thinkin' John might be a little :screwy:
hey guys, well i got 2 15'' kicker comp vr's, there not as bad as you guys have been sayin'. they hit loud and hard. but i'm not here to brag or nothin, i need help. i got a 2000 mitsubishi galant and i'm tryin to install a head unit and i need to bypass the stock amp and i'm a little confused. can you pros help?
I think we should just let him be.... he never answers questions. We're not going to prove anything further by pushing him. He'll just breeze on in every now and then and say "you all know nothing, I know everything. Just ask me and I'll prove it". Then we'll say he doesn't know what he's talking about and ask him some questions to prove him wrong. Then he'll come back and say "you all know nothing, I know everything. Just ask me and I'll prove it". :screwy:
Well, my T-bird also had a factory amp, but instead of fooling with trying to find a way around it, I just bypassed it completely and installed new wiring with the old, I never use the power of the head unit, I haven't found one clean or clear enough to please me. I just run amps for highs and low's and power all of the speakers off of external amps. The wiring can be a hassle, I had to take off alot of panels to get to places keep everything outta site, but when finished, the sound difference is gratifying. I have no ametuer-recognizable audible distortion. Somewhere in the .07% electrical, and typical driver cone distortion for aluminum. Audiophile as not can be.
Running wiring for amps is a pain in the ass. Thats probably the hardest
part of the whole install.
I agree with you in regards to amping the speakers, but sometimes that isn't always an option(car itself, cost). If that's the case, then a slightly higher-end deck can still provide pretty decent sound for speakers. I run concept speakers with a Pioneer Premier deck, and the sound quality is just fine. I only notice distortion when the volume levels reach near ear-bleeding highs. And very little at that. I guess having the decks EQ set custom helps that, and having the HPF running at 125HZ...cleans the sound up quite a bit.
Really. Im still here. I have been answering your question the whole time
dumasses. i stilll have the best and you all suck so hahahahahahahahaha.
you can only be young once but you can always be immature
Nobody cares anymore :banghead:
what? you're stealing my sig quote now?
Get your own stuff.... both quotes and car sound systems.
Whoa dude he is, kick him in his ovary :orglaugh:
Lmao, that just sounds funny when reading :orglaugh: . And what the hell, why come back to say nothing of importance (although NOTHING you've said is of importance but thats not the point). You obviously still cant prove it. There's a big difference between being immature and being stupid, and you are obviously the latter. Just cause 'Your only young once, but you can always be immature' doesnt mean you can be stupid too. :banghead:
I've been using it as my excuse :laughing:
In all seriousness though john2k. If you're answering all our questions, here's a simple one that I want a direct answer to. If you're such an audio guru, you'll know it easily.
How does a log (base 10) scale work? Explain in purely numerical terms, then apply to a decibel scale.
A log scale measures how heavy a log is :screwy: :laughing:
Haha, well i'm immature at times but i know when to stop being immature. But john2k, he's not immature, he's just stupid, or so it looks.
fine all you stupid ****ers. i have the best and you can see me in the car
audio compettitons in august and september and you will be amazed.
you can only be young once. but you can always be stupid like all of you.
ps: sttop taking my catch frases.
hey, welcome back. Are you gonna answer our questions now?
Your catch 'phrases'? And how would we know who you were in the competition? Will you be the guy with the Guiness Trophy for loudest sound system? You got nothing, and still have no proof. If i may ask, where is this Car Audio Competition and what are the exact dates?
I don't mean to "drop a bomb" on anyone, but i believe on earth (no water,
just plain old american air), you can only achieve 194dB..... period...
if you wanna go on the moon and do dB Drags then u might get a lot more, but i believe that 194 is the limit for our atmosphere.
Im doing pretty good, im considering that Alphasonik Mayhem PSW912 and two PMA1200DA's to power it, eventually, what do u guys think?
Here is my current setup:
Deck: Pioneer DEH-P7600MP
Subs: Two Audiopipe TXX-C1200's (700RMS each)
Amp: Alphasonik PMA800DA (1640 RMS at 1 ohm)
Cap: Audiopipe CAP-100 (1.0 farad)
Box: Custom 3/4" MDF 3 cu.ft. box by H&K Audio (Kendallville, indiana)
Right now im hitting mid 140's.....
I figure if i save up cash for a PSW912 and two linked PMA1200DA's (2470rms at 1 ohm, each) i could do pretty good.... Of course i would only use both amps for a burp, not continous. just one for normal play.
What do u guys think? Think it will be loud or no? Any good for SQL? I hear it only responds 45Hz and up.....
man if u want something loud then get two Kicker SoloX 12's(10,000watt Max and 5,000watt RMS). half fun layin down the money for them and the amps to push them.
Ok first off, I don't have $1100 a sub,,,
second off, I don't have the airspace for two of them, hardly one, and surely not a big enough box (or box space) for two.
With my trunk car (97 monte carlo) I think it would be better to get a PSW912 Mayhem? Or one or two Kicker L7 15"? What do u guys think?
lmao!, after reading this thread i feel as if i know absoloutely NOTHING about sound systems and car audio gear.. i just buy the cheapest mp3/cd player deck for my car and i get a couple of 6x9's from my mate troy for cheap, lmao!... wow.. i should do some research!
And you'll probably get a half decent sound ... as long as you don't try to crank it up to scare the birds out of trees. If you do that, then you'll notice your lack of controlled amplification.
do you want to hear anything beyond your 30's?.....hehehehe
seriously though, sounds like your looking for an SPL setup. I wouldn't narrow it down to two subs. You want to look at a few things when building an SPL setup - sensitivity - RMS and Peak Power handling - frequency response(some sound louders then others(i shit you not) - xmax excursion helps too...
id research some more, but it seems you have your heart set on one of those two subs. so a few questions - how much room will they need to be efficient, how much power do they need, and can you supply that?
yep, you don't only wanna go down to 45Hz ... around about 20Hz is when you
start thinking your stomach is imploding.
a guy at work designed an amp (not for a car), and put a passive crossover in it, that took the bass segment, passed it to the subs, but also passed it through a frequency divider and passed half the frequency to the subs. This kept it in the right harmonics, just LLLOOOOWWWEEERRR!! (*you've gotta growl that last bit for it to make sense*)
haha!, yeah i don't blast a sound system, i'm not all about blowing my head up, i just like being able to hear shit clearly and having no interuptions.. actually, you can always have a conversation in my car at a normal level and never have any trouble hearing the other person (unless they're mumbling), i think that's more important to me then not bein' able to hear anythin' but my boot vibrating, i think that's really embarisin' actually.
The Kicker square subs (L5/L7/X) all have too many reliability issues with
their cones... Plus, they dont sound that good at all (a very overrated sub
in my opinion). Dont get me wrong, they get loud...but might as well buy a
$20 Jenson and give it 800rms because it sounds about the same SQ wise.
The 900 series from I hear isnt bad at all (and a great deal if you can find one). I havent heard the 900 series but I not too long ago put in a 800 series 15" in a friends car and it was an excellent sub for the price ($169). But in the end Alphasonik is known for their amps the most... Their High Current amps are simply sick...
Ever thought about getting an Adire Brahma or maybe a Resonant Engineering SX or XXX. Both are kick ass subs. Also Digital Designs makes some excellent mid-high end subs (my 3515d's really are one of the best daily driver subs I've ever heard).
Just to add, if space is a matter then look into the Ascendent Audio Avalanche or Atlas, they are built to work best in small enclosures.
I have 3 mephis M-Series 12'' subs on a 900 watt pioneer mono block amp and they are in a 1997 S10 regular cab in a nonported truck box and sound great I won the freak show speaker competition last year I want to to sell the whole set-up for 425 if anyone intrested I want to get 3 of the memphis audios with a 1000 wat mojo amp I strongly suggest mobile milleuim in greenville nc 252-355-4444
Memphis makes some very efficent subs. The M-class with 300-350rms gets pretty damn loud.
Get Kicker Amps and Fusion Subs and speakers, they're a great brand. for a
head unit I would get a poineer AVG, it can connect to a VDP (Vehicle
Dynamics Processor) so you would be able to see your car temperatures and
all the other information needed to race.
YES YOU CAN CONNECT A DIFFERENT TYPE OF HEAD UNIT TO DIFFERENT SPEAKERS< AMPS AND SUBS!!
What do you guys think... This deserve the "No Shit" award of the week?
For sure. It has my vote! :clap:
*bows down to captain obvious, aka GTUNER*
Just relized ive been maybe posting in the wrong area. I finished reading this whole thread and nearly pissed on myself from laughing. I know its been awhile since you guys posted on this thread, and if any of you read this, please respond so I can use this thread as my stereo questions resource.
I read it...not sure if you meant anybody, or just audio guys, but it says
any of us, and I'm part of any of us :laughing:
BTW I don't think it will make a difference in which thread you post it in, but worth a try I guess :thumbs:
lol, yeah i tried to be crisp and concise so as not to get shot down again by hobo. but yeah anybody's opinion will be at least interesting:thumbs:
hey i just hit a 278 on a pressure meter i have to loudest system ever, louder than any of you wannabes. Your all so stupid!
Jesus I thought you got banned...
This clown is back?
nah, he's good value
just don't let him wind you up, then he's funny as ... just listen to what he says with an air of "i know its bs, but he thinks i don't"
.... then it's funny.
he'll only keep goin while he gets a rise outta people.