Yea yea there probally at the bottom of the food chain but i need some cheap subs for my car. plz tell me your thoughts on them.
Linky no work :smoke:
What car are you going to put them in?
I'll be putting them in the back of my 02' Mountianeer.
I was also considering the 12' sony Xplod subs. any suggestions?
They are pieces of junk. Not even worth the money they ask them for. They
dont last for one, and for two sound like bad sex.
You want a good cheap setup get two 12" DVC Volfenhags ($50 a piece at ikesound.com) a good box like an Obcon (around $60-$80 from sounddomain.com) and a Hifonics Brutus BX1000 amp (ikesound.com should have it if not try onlinecarstereo.com). Hifonics makes the best power/price amp line out there.
Don't buy from crutchfield, they are WAY overpriced compared to other dealers over the net.
Thanxs. My budget as of now has nearly tripled due to some fortunate
events. I now have about a grand to spend on a whole new system. I was
thinking about goin with 2 12' sony xplod subs with a 1100w amp. I know
sony xplod products get a bad rap but has anyone expierienced them first
hand? Heres the link to the subs--
Sony car audio blows. Period. Over-priced junk. If you have over a grand, buy a good Alpine class-D amp (AB isn't necessary for subs, and when you decide to upgrade your the unit powering your speakers, you'll regret having a class AB amp for your sub) with a pair of Rockford Phase 2's and you'll have about 400 to spare. Or better yet, get a pair of JL's.
Everything Sony makes audio wise is complete crap.
For a grand this is what i would do.
2 12" PPI DCX 124's - $420 or 2 12" Diamond Audio M612D4's - $460
Orion 1200D amp running a 1ohm load to the subs - ~$350
Obcon Vented dual 12" box - $80
Money left over spend on wires and dynamat.
I will tell you the setup that I have in my eclipse. I got the whole package for around $650. Iono if it's the best bang for your buck but I can tell you that it beats harder than most setups for the price. I bought (3) Audiobahn ALUM12Q subs for around $270 shipped on Ebay. They are 1000w RMS each and 2000w peak and a MA Audio HC4002 Amp which runs at 4000w at 1 ohm. That's like $330 shipped. The disadvantage to the amp is that it is refurbished. I've had mine for a little over a year now and I've had no problems. Buy an 0g amp kit and a big ANL fuse and your good to go. Of course you'll need a box but you'll still have $350 left. I know that audiobahn subs take alot of extra power to reach the same db that some subs like JL's etc. reach but they still work good. Especially if you have enough space to have a real enclosure. I know someone that will build you a custom box for cheaper than you could imagine that would give those subs 3.25 airspace each if you have the space.
You have way too much power running to your subs, there's no way a single
battery can power all that, hell, my car has trouble powering the 1000
(Class AB Rockford Power amp (350), Class-D Alpine(350), Class AB Pheonix
gold(150 [6x9's]), Class AB MA Audio (1200) which I disconnected because
well, MA sucks, lots of engine noise through that one and a Class AB Alpine
V12 5-channel [only powering my front speakers, so using 4 channels])
wattsish of power I have running through it now despite the fact that I
have a 180 amp alternator on it. So I say BS to all of that.
3.25? I'm assuming you're talking about a ported box. If not, that's too big. And that would only allow for 1 sub in the vehicle. No vehicle has enough trunk space for a pair of 3.25cf boxes unless you're talking like a suburban, or, if you face the subs towards eachother in the trunk, which arises more problems such as phasing out, and switching the polarities on the subs still doesn't really fix that too well. 3.25cf is huge, most subs call for about 1cf-1.5cf sealed or about 2.5cf ported. And you can't just put any sub in a box that big, it will blow itself apart if it was only made for a box of 2.5cf or 1cf.
Sealed boxes are the only way to go, best sound quality.
I have 1 optima yellow top a 140 amp alternator and a 6 farad audiobahn power cap. Yeah, I was talking about ported enclosures. I had (2) 2.5 total volume enclosures in the back of my eclipse at first then I bought another sub and switched to a fiber glass enclosure. Of course I don't have back seats or a spare tire though. I would go and take a picture of the old enclosre but they are at my moms garage. They were huge though, I had a hard thime seeing over my shoulders. The ultimate SPL box is 3.25cu. ft air space for those subs and the everyday bass performer is 2.3 cu. ft. taken right out of the manual. I think he said it was going in the back of his 02 mountaineer. I don't know the exact space available in the mountaineer but I imagine if it fit in my eclipse it'll fit in his truck. As far as you raising your BS flag I could care less. Perhaps you would like to see a picture of it. I can take it right now with my camera phone. The subs and the amp are sitting right here in my living room. I took them out because the Eclipse is in the shop.
Caps don't do anything, they just power the amps for split second power drops, I forget what it was, i think it was 0.01 sec on average or something like that per farad. A yellow top still wouldn't power 7000 watts, you'd need probably about 4 or 5 of them to power that. Even if it could, you battery would die in a matter of probably about a minute, probably less, and your car would just die. If you've ever done a battery test to a car, you'd know that they have trouble producing half of their peak output for 20 seconds, if you test it again after the first test, the battery has dropped in power substantially.
I never said anything about 7000w I said 4000w, and even with the 0g I don't get more than 3400w at BEST. Dying is not an issue, my car runs just fine. Tell ya what, you can look at the specs for the subs and the amp yourself. Then I can send you a video of it running just fine in my car. If it was really worth all that.
my bad, i thoguht your audio bahn stuff were amps
You do realize that power is lost due to resistance in the wire? Just because you're only getting 3400 doesn't mean it's not drawing 4000. A 0g wire is plenty big for that little bit of power too, not like you're trying to power the city block. Your car cannot power that much. You can't fool any of us that know how a car works. We know how much a cars alt will put out (usually 100 or so stock), how much a battery is able to put out for any amount of time, etc etc etc.
what class is your amp
Audiobahn like MA Audio over-rate their equipment quite a bit. The ALUM's cant take more than about 500-600rms of TRUE power for any length of time. MA Audio amps I havent really dealt with but their Subs arent much to write home about from what I've heard personally. For the price I could of gotten better equipment but it's not bad for the price you got.
You guys have been helpful but all of you are forgetting that i'm getting a whole new system no just subs. Trust me if i had the cash i would go with some JL's or some Rockford fosgate subs. I still need 4 speakers to buy on top of a new head unit and subs, amp ect. But thats alright. thanks for your input. I think i will steer clear of the sony xplods.
I agree with you about the sound of sealed boxes as opposed to ported, but then again, it all depends on who, how, and where those boxes are placed. However, I do NOT agree with the statement about MA being junk. Because you bought an AB amp that had some engine noise running through it, probably because the power and RCA's were run on the same side, doesn't mean the whole line of MA is garbage. I have two HC4002 4000 watt amps in my Saturn powering 8 Audiobahn 1205Q 1000 watt subs, and if you think that A) there's road noise, or B) they're junk, you are MORE than invited to come take a listen.
Oh and I forgot, as far as the Audiobahn AULM series, they have pretty much the same specs and manual as my 1205Q's. As far as the boxes, I know in the "manual" it recommends those box sizes, and does NOT recommend sealed boxes, but come on. They write that to cover their butts. I could not have put more than two or three in my Saturn if they need 3.25 cf on space ported, with TWO ports per subs at 11" deep. That's friggen ridiculous. I made my boxes 1.25 cubed, sealed, yes, sealed, and they hit just fine. I do agree that Audiobahn subs are not subs to be pounding for hours at a time. However I have pounded the sh*t out of those things for over a year and they're still kickin. They're good subs for competetion, and that's what I am all about right now. As far as daily driving, Fosgate, JL, Kicker, they're damn good subs.
They are junk. I have 3 amps for subs in my car, an Alpine, Rocford and MA.
They are all run the same. Power wire and remote is run on the left of the
car, RCA on the right. My car is wired with Stinger power wire and Rockford
RCA's. There's no excuse for engine noise. Anyway, I hav ea fuse block in
the back which enables me to easily turn one off by taking out a fuse. If I
just have the MA pounding, it's junk, Alpine is good, Rockford (Power
series) is great (Though AB class :ohcrap: ). You just think it's good
because it's yours, that's what most people think. Why do you think MA
isn't well known like the better quality brands such as JL, Rockford,
Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer (Head units only) etc etc etc. Why do you think
their website hasn't been updated since late 2002? And once again, your car
can't even power one of those amps so why waste your money on two?
Easily proven. AMPS = Watts/Volts
AMPS = 4000/14.4
AMPS = 277.77
Good job, you can't even power one of them. You can power just over 1/3 of one, and that will still kill your battery. I could only power just over half of one and I have a high amp alternator (180amps I tested it at)
What the hell are you talking about? I don't know who you are, but you're definitely run-of-the-mill. JL, Rockford, they're all great for daily driving, class AB amps. Woo. As far as my MA's go, I have a 200 amp aftermarket Ohio Genertator alternator. I have an Optima Red top for a startup battery, and my alternator feeds an isolator that runs to a Kinetik Power HK2400 Monster Power Cell in the trunk. Yeah, definitely underpowered buddy. Definitely. By the way, that looks like an '88 Grand Prix, am I right? Had an identical one, good runnin cars, I just beat the piss out of the transmission, oh well. Listen bud, I know you're doing the math on this stuff, and I can see you took the time to calculate the voltage, amperage, and wattage. Atleast I know that you're backing your logic up here. However, I also had to take into consideration what I was doing here. I wasn't going to waste my time with this little "Saturn Project" because of the points you made. The thing had a 96 amp stock alternator, had a LOT of broken inside trim pieces, seemed underpowered, yada yada. I took the time, looked into what I had ahead of me for work before I even bought anything for this beast. I had never dealt with MA OR Audiobahn before this, I used to be a Kicker and JL guy. Primarily Kicker. I bought the amps, stupidly enough, through recommendation of a good friend who has been dealing with car audio longer than I have. I told him I read reviews and saw good and bad, he reassured me to the point that he would eat the cost of both amps if I wasn't satisfied. So I bought them. Let me tell you, I know you hear road noise through yours. I am sorry to hear that. I am sorry to hear that one amp blew your judgement on the whole MA line. As far as the website, I don't care about the website, I care about the product. And as far as these two amps go, I gotta hand it to MA, I haven't had a single amp that could honestly hang with an HC4002, but that's just me, obviously JBL has that 6000 watt puppy that I would like to get my hands on.