Currently I have an 800watt amp w/ 2 12's hooked up in my Hombre.. and I would like to add more in teh bed under my tonneau... I was wondering what all I would need.. if I'd need to boost the size of the initial amp wire going to the batter.. capacitors.. etc..? How would I got about hooking up the other amp and two more subs?
Okay, a few people have gone with audio in bed designs, but usually they are pretty complex and comlicated, I suggest going to a local car audio shop and getting their specific advice on how to setup this, it's not going to be cheap, nor easy to do.
I plan on doing all of the work myself. I'm not looking to connect the cab and the bed, just put my system back there.
You CAN'T do that. A lot of work and preparation goes into this for imaging and such, if you just throw a box of 4 12's in your bed, it will sound like shit, trust me. I don't think you realize how much work actually goes into bed audio (such as imaging, fiberglassing, soundproofing etc...). It's probably not worth your time unless you're willing to pay the big bucks to do it right. Otherwise, I'd find a better incab solution, possibly go with 3 10s or 2 15s. More area than 2 12's (2 12's works out to 226.08 sq/in, while 3 10s works out to 235.5sq/in and even better is 2 15's work out to a massive 353.25 sq/in). What 12's do you have and what amp are you pushing them with, are you looking for more output? Sound Quality?
Right now in my std. cab I have 2 12'' Kenwood Typhoon Series subwoofers, w/ an 800watt Volfenhag 2channel amp. I'm just looking for something (I know this sounds stereotypical) that blasts away the competition in my area. I wanna be heard comin' down the road and I wanna really feel my music.I had planned on purchasing the dynamat spray and coating the bed of my truck w/ it. Maybe even some dynamat sheeting under the tonneau cover to reduce vibration. I hadn't planned on working with fiberglass but I did plan on running plexiglass between two single 15'' boxes and connect the two (sort of like the RF best buy set up).
Stick to in-cab audio, you aren't ready for a project like bed audio yet.
Fiberglassing is almost a must for inbed audio. And you'll need WAY more
preparation than what you listed just for sound deadening.
Your problem is you have weak subs and a weak amp.
IF this: http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2507
Is the Volfenhag amp you have then yeah, you are REALLY underpowering the subs. I assume you have each amplifer channel going to each one of the subs because you cant bridge the amp because the two subs in parallel have a 2ohm load, which would fry your amp. The Subwoofers have an RMS rating of 400 a piece. The amp isn't even rated with RMS ratings, but since it's a 800 watt max then it probably should be rated at 100x2rms @ 4ohm, but since it's overrated for sure, it's probably 75x2rms @ 4ohm. So you're sending your subwoofers about 20% of the power they need. That's your biggest problem right there, you need to buy an amp that properly can power your subs. You'll see a huge gain output once you get an amp that properly power your subs.
Such as this:
Any amp that sends about 800rms At 2ohm mono will fully power your subs.
That sure is the amp that I have... I don't know too much about wiring, I just know how to hook it all up (weird huh)... How would I wire them in parallel if I got the amp you recommended? Would I need to? I just hook each sub up to left and right channel of the amp, I heard something about wiring the subs together.. but.. yeah..
Also do they make boxes that could fit behind my seat for 15s w/o compromising leg room? or would I be better off sticking with 12s? I was thinking of selling the set up I have for as much as I can squeeze out of it.. and buy two apline type R's .. what would be a good amp to power those?
Go there, they explain a lot of "how to" stuff with audio.
TO wire two single voice coil 4ohm subs in parallel is very simple. You simply wire the each postive together and each negative together. That way you have one postive wire and one negative wire going to the amp. That will present the amp with a 2ohm mono load.
Here's a visual:
I kind of doubt you could fit a 15" or 12" Type-R behind a truck seat.
These are VERY long depth mounting subs (the 12" is like 8" of depth, while
the 15" is about 9.5" of mounting depth). You need something definatley
under 8" of mounting depth.
Something like these are pretty shallow for a 15" (Diamond D3)
Do you think two kickerl7s would work?
L7's cost too much for what they accomplish.
the only reason I wondered is because I have a friend who would sell me a pair of L7s w/ truck box for $500.. there only a year old.
Could still do way better for the price. If he offered it for $300-$350,
then it would be worth looking at, but $500 is a rip-off. You can get
refurbished new L7's for $135 (which are better than USed, as they are
fully rebuilt). So I think you should either tell your friend to
drastically reduce the price or tell him to shove it. Because you could get
the same deal, but better for under $350.
Don't believe me?
Yup, brand new model too.
I personally would never get Kicker Square subs. While they CAN get loud, they are some of the worst sounding upper market subs there are. They also tend to have more cone cracks and cone failure rates than any other upper end subwoofer. Think of it as the RX-7 of Subwoofers in reliability...
For that kind of money I'd get Resonant Engineering SE's. They get REALLY loud but sound EXTREMELY good still. Way better sub than the L7.
:clap: Well put. The Square subs tend to get reallllly mushy and muddy sounding. Personally, I've never heard of any L7s cookin, but I've heard of a couple L5s go, even when they aren't overpowered or overplayed.
I even know how much most of the time a recone is for a 12" L7 that Kicker charges. $130 (including shipping)! Seen it happen so many times. The L7 is built just like the L5, only a little beefier here and there. If you put the L7 through a torture test, something will fail, seen it everytime. Another bad thing about the L7 is it requires HUGE ported boxes to get as loud as it does. Hearing a 12" L7 in a 2cu-ft ported then a 3cu-ft ported box made all the output difference in the world. To think though I could have TWO 12" Type-R's in that same 3cu-ft ported airspace and get WAY LOUDER too. It doesn't make for a very good truck sub.
What sub/amp combo would you recommend to get me the slammin' base I desire? Would Alpine TypeR's fit in a truck box?
Check out the Pioneer slim mount inverted basket woofer. Sounds great, pounds hard, and is something like 4" thick..
Good amp to go with em'?