Went home at lunch and took pics of the new garage...
Coming along nicely. Much larger than it had looked on paper. The entire
second floor (600 square feet) is a master bedroom suite... Unfortunately,
I can't put much of a lift in the garage as the ceiling height is only
7'9", but it'll hold all the cars...
And what the upstairs should look like (I just started a 3D model of it):
It's looking good Chris! Make sure to keep us updated on this one :)
looks really cool if i can only convince my dad to do that:hi:
ideally(sp?) my house will look like that in about 10-20 years :hi:
, lol you guys use that tyvec home wrap too, I see that stuff everywhere on houses being built around here:laughing:
and what do those bumper stickers say on the fiat?
looking good!!!! like dodgerforlife says, id like to see the outcome of this :thumbs:
Exciting time for you there ChrisV. Being a dab hand at building my own
homes I have a few questions about the construction, if you'll humour
why the plyboard on all walls? presumably it's for wind loading, but the trusses don't appear to have cyclone rods tieing them to the floor plate? I note the top plate is a single member, perhaps the ply help that for rigidity, especially for snow loading?
why isn't the builder using a reflective sarking? Is there an an energy code in your country or is the moisture barrier the only requirement?
is there going to be a wind brace across the roof or does the roofing system provide the necessary?
do the floor levels tie in with the existing, it appears you have a lower floor in the new section?
sweet deal. lookin good
looks sick man! The garage loooks bigger than your house!
Looking good, but you know no matter what size you do it's never big enough. If you lived a little closer I could help you get it dried in. do you have the steps in yet or are you climbing through the window?
normal construction is to use glue-lam, but the regular plywood is
considered higher quality, and a bit mroe durable. Glue-lam tends to crack
easier around stress points, like windows. We see 5 year old houses with
glue-lam instead of plywod that are cracking around all the windows and
If you look at the pics I attached here, the interior shot shows a double board for the top plate, as well as the engineered plywood header over the window, (similar to the thicker ones over the garage doors). The trusses dont' need teh cyclone rods here. They use custom brackets to atach to the top plate, then teh sheathing ties them together. The initial one is tied into the main house over 75% of it's surface. The plan is that this wil last as well as the original house does (which was built in 1932, and is structurally in better shape than most new houses)
The Tyvek moisture barrier is really all that's necessary here. It has a reflective quality, as well, but it's a good moisture and draft barrier. Of course, once it's sealed up tight, we have to go back and vent it good...
The roofing system that's used is all that's necessary. We've had hurricane force winds here before, and this stuff has lived though it with no problems.
Actualy that was one of the design concerns. On the side that the garage is on, there is a stairway that goes fromjust inside the font door up to the second level in the main house. BUT... 4 steps down from the upper level, there's a landing where the stairs make a 90 degree turn to the right. We made sure that landing coincides with the floor level of the upper level over the garage. So instead of going up an then to the right and up again to the upper level now, you will go up to the landing then left into the new bedroom. the large window that was at the landing will be replaced with teh door to the bedroom.
The only problem is that in order to get the 20 foot free span of the floor joists actross the garage with no posts, we had to use taller engineered joists that reduce the ceiling height in the garage to 7'9" (2.36 meters)
Right now, the guys climb in through the outside window. But after the roof is on and sealed up, then they take out the window in the main house and replace it with a door.
Thanks for the heads up. I note there aren't any noggins either (probably
explains cracking around windows), nor blocking of the hi_span joists.
Glue_lam here tends to be just a trade name for laminated beams
What are 'noggins'?
This should explain:
Unless codes have changed since I built houses you don't need noggins unless the wall is over 9 feet tall (if I remember correctly.)
Lookin' very nice. I can't wait to see the finished product.:thumbs:
lovely looking weather in the garage19 pic lol :laughing:
Latest pics, plus some quick 3D renderings of the proposed space. I've got to finish the surface shaders and detailing, but it's an idea...
Looking better all the time.:thumbs:
thats looking great!!!
Pics from this weekend. the exterior is basically done. And I pulled the ugly yellow siding off of the wall at the front porch and found the original 1932 Cedar shake shingles. they'll clean up nicely, so we're going to leave them on the front porch and back porch/deck wall, while removing the nasty yellow siding and residing it in the clay colored colonial siding that the addition has. That will integrate the whole house. Also, the railing on the front porch that is now clad in that ugly yellow siding is going to be replaced with cedar railing that matches what I did on the rear deck.
wow really nice never seen someone do such a big renovation project :clap:
now we all know where you live :laughing:
it is looking good though
I really love the way that deck is built. Addition is looking great.
Looks great Chris, keep us updated!
Chrisv have you thought about running the verandah roof along the front of
the extension? I think this would tie the two together aesthetically. Ditto
with the storm shutters.
Wally, it was going to add another $3k to the bill to get the roofline
stretched across the front (I was looking into it beofre teh siding had
even been ordered), and to be frank, I don't have it. Considering
everything else that increased in price since last September when I signed
the contract (With Hurricane Katrina causing an increase in costs for
building materials due to shortages, and the increase in fuel costs for
shipping and anything made with plastics). I literally have to refinance
now to try to get the money to finish the interior. And that might be
problematic as it's unfinished (when we refinanced and signed the contract,
my wife was working as a manager, and had been for the previous 6 years,
making as much as I was. This past april, her company reorganized and her
whole division was out of work. She's bartending now and making decent
money, but not as much as she had been, so we weren't able to absorb the
overages and still have the money originally slated to finish the
As for the shutters on the main house, they are leaving. I've ALWAYS hated them, so when we reside the main house to match the addition, all the windows will look the same as the ones on the addition.
All that's left is time. if the bank comes through soon (they did a reappraisal on Saturday), we can get started on the electrical, telecom, insulation and then sheetrock finishing.
Looks good Chris, it's coming along quite nicely. My neighbours have
decided to do a big add on also (not a garage though).. takes up a good
amount of backyard though (as I live in the middle of town). My dad
believes that they probably don't have a builders permit, but that'd be
quite stupid I would think..
But anyways, good luck with it, and hope you enjoy the finished product :thumbs:
Sorry to hear you are stretched, but building costs even if you are a
stingy bastard like me and DIY. Still you have a realisable asset that's
probably net value increased.
I'm glad you are getting rid of the shutters. Being an expert on these things after watching a few episodes of This Old House and that Canadian dickhead who goes around fixing shoddy work, I can see their practical worth, but they are so cliched too.
yeah, all of the interior work wil be done by myself, my wife, and a few
friends. She's actually going out today to buy the parts to rough in the
electrical wiring (we're using the NEC 2005 code book, one of the benefits
of working for a facilities management group...), and will probably have
the boxes all mounted by the time I get home from work. We'd have done more
ourselves, but the subcontractors only took a few weeks to go from nothing
to the finished shell.
Certain houses around here look good with shutters, but only if they are REAL shutters, not these crap plastic fake ones. So many siding companies put them on as a matter of course, trying to make things look "colonial" but I'm not a fan, and neither is my wife.
Maybe functional shutters on a 1700s brick house, like these...
don't suppose you're doing anything funky with the wiring?
If I had the opportunity to wire a house (or part thereof) from scratch, I'd run as many devices as possible on 2 parallel circuits, with the second circuits all ending up in a single location. This gives you the opportunity to set up some cool automation at a later date if the situation arises.
At the end of the day what's the cost of a little extra cable when you've got the chance?
meh, maybe i just like the idea of remote control too much :oops:
Well, code only allows so much, and to do that, I'd have to go out and buy
a new sub panel for the addition, vs the one I already have that is set up
for it. The service for that panel would have to be double the capacity of
the current current panel, plus the run from the main panel to the sub
panel would have to be rethought, with larger capacity. Compared to what
we're doing, it'd be 3-4000 extra. The main problem is I'm using vastly
more capacity for the garage than normal. Code calls for one outlet in the
garage, that is GFCI protected. I'm running separate circuits for the
compressor, the wall outlet series (which are sized to use the welder at
any point in the garage or driveway), the work bench, and lighting/garage
doors. That uses four of the available 8 circuits for the addition. BUT,
since the upper addition is simply one bedroom and bathroom, it needs very
little. (one circuit for the lighting, one for the bathroom, and one for
the bedroom outlets). Also, the bedroom circuits have to be on AFCI
breakers instead of the standard stuff.
I'm also running coax and Cat5 into the bedroom and garage for later use, even though I have a decent wireless network.
I just meant switching circuits, no extra current draw.
speaker cable can be a decent thought too if you want to pipe central music etc...
Oh, yeah. And I'm running hidden speakers in the ceiling, as well as a sub
under the bed... ;)
And yeah, multiple lighting circuits with lot's of low voltage halogens and dimmers. I have decided however, to nix the idea of heated floor elements for teh bathroom tile. Too much extra circutry and too much possibility of shorting and futzing with the AFCI setup.
yeah, that's more what i was talking about.
if you have all your switching / dimmers in one location, it makes for some easy automation.... what with pc i/o becoming more accessible.