How can the anti-theft system be overidden? Seems to be the problem, cuz the symptoms are there, won't start, wait 10 minutes then try to start, the anti-theft light stays on(doesn't blink though). Will the installation of a car alarm with ingnition overide solve the problem? Puzzled??
don't know if it can be over ridden or not. Your key probably has the
resistor in it. If you go to a "good" locksmith, they can check the key to
see if it is good.
[should be free depending on locksmith]. If it is good it could be a broken wire going from the key switch down the steering colum to pats system. [common problem with GM]
worth a try anyhowm My :2cents:
It is not the anti-theft system if the light is not flashing. Does the engine turn over?
if it's a quality anti-theft system then it will usually kill your ignition to the starter and it won't crank at all, does it crank over? do you have spark? fuel?compression?
kc, i know we are not answering you original question but maybe this info will help.......ok, usually with the ford and gm FACTORY theft system [vats or pats] the car will still crank, maybe even start for a second or two but cut off. gm's had the resistor on the key, if resistor is no good, wrong one or key cut on a normal key blank the car will crank but not start. On the fords with the transponder key, if it is not programmed or if cut on a normal non transponder blank the car will crank but not start... if it does it will run only for a second or two then die out.I do not know if it kills spark or fuel but I do know it will crank. As far as after market theft systems I do not know. :2cents:
the anti theft system is in the body control module(bcm) also your chip is not in the key but in the ignition cylinder. the bcm may be possible to replace it with another module from a another malibu that did not come with the anti theft system before trying this(a 400.00 option or more) i would check the grounding wire harness at the back of the engine at the tranny mounting bolt it will be a black plug with about 6 to 10 black wires plugged into a metal prong (one bolt holds it to the tranny) there is two of these plugs one on the front side and one on the backside (firewall) out of curiousity does the abs light come on once and awhile (yes i own a 97 malibu 3.1L) hope this helps
[QUOTE=apastarelli]It is not the anti-theft system if the light is not
flashing. Does the engine turn over?[/QUOTe
No it doesn't. It just makes a clicking sound.
It doesn't crank, it just makes a clicking sound.
Yes, the abs light did come on prior to the problems that I now have and so did a check light which looks like a module of some sort(far right light). If the grounding cable was the problem how would I get to it( I tried once and it is difficult to reach. Thanks for responding. Art
i didn't try to remove mine just unplugged it and cut the plug off and ran a heavy ground wire from the battery to the wires keeping it away from the exhaust cross over pipe
[QUOTE=osborste]i didn't try to remove mine just unplugged it and cut the
plug off and ran a heavy ground wire from the battery to the wires keeping
it away from the exhaust cross over pipe[/
when you say, you ran a grounding cable from the battery to the "wires", which wires are you talking about. are you saying that you reattached a new wire(grounding cable) to the same area or to a new one? so, you're saying that i sould make another ground connection?
i cut the plug end off all the ground wires and joined the to the new wire and ran it to the ground (negative) terminal off the battery my ground terminal at the transmission had weaken almost rotted off so i could not clean it or reuse and yes its a difficult location i'll do a better repair when the engine or transmission needs to come out
check the wires from the plus on your battery.those side post types need to
be cleaned every 6 months.if the voltage falls to less than 5 volts when
you try to start your car,the theft system re arms and looks like the
check the cabling to the starter.it will pull 200 amps plus when you try to start the car .if your battery is being pulled down to lower than 10 volts after5 seconds of crank, a dead cell battery could be .all lights and low current devices will work,but when you start it,the battery crashes.my 89 olds 98 did that.i pulled the battery which read 9.2 volts ,charged it up.,put it back in the car,it worked 5 weeks and then finally the battery went .i cleaned all the cables(trickier than it looks )put in a new battery and the car is working good .bad grounds are an amazing source of trouble.clean all major connects and put lithium grease on them. good luck,oh by the way,most immobilizers kill the fuel pump,not the starter.for sure you have a current delivery problem to the starter.check in this order,battery,cables,starter ,grounds, ...the lobster
uhm not really, maybe the cheap versions or crappy tire models, a good anti-theft will do many many things, kill ignition kill esc kill fuel pump kill starter it all depends on the type of system. and when cleaning grounds clean both surfaces and hook it back togather b4 you put proper corrosion inhibitor on it, i saw a tech put dielectric grease on an alternator connection b4 he hooked it up and he tried to explain to me that it will keep oxidizing air out(which is somewhat true) and that it conducts electricity. WRONG grease is not a good conductor it is an insulator , if your worried about fast corrosion because you live in that part of the world, use proper corrosion inhibitor spray it's like spray paint and will keep the air from oxidising the connection AFTER IT IS CONNECTED... not b4.
wow we got this know it all that likes to counteract everything i
say.well,chrysler factory immobilizer key systems of late use a scrolling
code system,and it kills the fuel pump. 3 tries more and the body
controller shuts down the starter.2003 and 2004 nissan products kill the
fuel pump.cut a spare without the chip,and the starter works.maybe this guy
thinking about MANUAL transmission ,DUH .starter kill there.but the fuel circuit is the most common..yes there are others ..as far as grease is concerned ,i thought it would be obvious that the grease is applied AFTER,IF YOU WERE THAT stupid YOU WOULD NOT WORK ON YOUR CAR.,as far as the abs light and check engine light those can be triggered in gm by a low voltage condition. you do not want to use some thing on those connections that cant be removed. you do not want to use a grease that will conduct to the battery surface. the best grease is heat sink compound,used in electronics.it is white grease,and that
stuff is very expensive though. but it is a very high di electric.it is similar in look to lithium grease but is 50 percent silicone.it goes on AFTER THE CONNECTION.keep in mind that positive wiring causes a different kind of corrosion than negative.and contrary to popular belief, voltage and current are actually out of phase 180 degrees in dc circuits. the heat sink compound is available at electronics specialty stores,it is used for mica hardware and transistors and ford use it for mounting the ignition modules to the distributor.the heat sink paste drying out is the biggest cause of module failure.garages do not use it because it is 10 dollars worth of grease per time.the red paint stuff is ok,but if you ever want to remove it,no fun.
i would love to learn how positive wiring causes a different kind of corrosion than negative wiring. please
How can DC current be out of phase?
voltage and current are 180 out of phase in electronics and physics.,
but,for common study,assume they are the same.but take a piece of zinc and
a piece of aluminum,put in salt water .run 8-12 volts through it .do both
corrode at the same rate?no.current flow direction effects it.
negative wiring on the battery behave slightly different than positive.
i would think being a completely different substance it would corrode at different rates
i have found that corrosion works different in positive and negative .if
you have a common ground junction and 8 different positive circuits,the
resistance in every circuit is different.then there is electrolysis.this is
yet different.most positive things if there is an electrolyte involved
behave different than grounds which will just plain rust.and to complicate
things ,if you study the way that voltage works ,in higher frequency it
travels in the outer portion of the wire called skin effect.therefore
corrosion is not equal,except maybe a battery post where both terminals are
the same type size and the current is equal on both halves.but if you
measure the reistance(or voltage drop) on both the - and + they are
different. alternating current is just that ,it alternates,but dc even
though it is one direction,is 180 out of phase with the voltage.there is
also a back emf phenomenon,where a ac voltage can back feed over a dc
voltage ,out of phase to it ,almost like a doppler effect,if it was out of
it also depends what kind of medium the current is travelling thru,gas solid,liquid etc. the finer points of this ,can be demonstated by things like oscillating high frequency circuits from capacative effect from solder joints to close together on a pc board.