I know I know there are like 3 threads about this but alas I don't know what parts of which thread pertain to me. So here it goes. when I try to start the car the coil only fires like once and then stops I think it occasionally fires if you try to crank it over for a long time as well but that is verry rare. the car (84' accord) has been sitting for quite some time it was my brothers I was told the fuel pump died so I tried it and it pumped no fuel (it was getting power) I replaced it and it works (not sure if it pumps the correct ammount and at the right time or what not but pump it does). Anyhow I also did the plugs/wires and cap/rotor ... anyhow any clues. I need to get the damn thing running so I can get to work tommorow. what connections do I need to check and what parts? I'm not to knowlagable about how things work but I learn quick when I dig into em ... fuel or and suspension make scense electical not so much thx for the help. :banghead:
Does it have points? If so check the gap.
there are points on a coil or are you refering to the cap ... not sure I understand I'm lacking spark from the coil. I did gap the plugs when I put them in but I'm not getting spark that far down anyhow.
If the car has points, they will be inside the distributer.
Ok that's what I thought but would that prevent the coil from firing? I'll have tim e to mess w/ it aggain tommorow I think so I just want whatever info there is to work w/.
if anyt old school guys read this you can correct me, when your points are closed it sends power to the coil and saturates when the points open the circuit is broken and the saturated coil fires the plug wiires which in turn fires the plug and so on so the answer to your question is yes... sorry i don't get to do much work on older points distributors so i would be the best guy to answer but the theory is there
That's a good enough description BanffAutoSpa_ap. The number of cam degrees
the points are closed is the "dwell". As a rough guide the dwell should be
about 360 divided by twice the amount of pots, although it does vary from
engine to engine.
Ideally, if you don't have a dwell meter, the points should be set by gapping the rubbing block to the rotor flats, but for an adjustment on the run have the points gapped to a hacksaw blade thickness when the rubbing block is on the highest point of a spindle lobe.
Apply a thin smear of stick grease or moly/lithium grease to the spindle lobes, or temporarily some vaseline. The rubbing block will wear awy quickly otherwise.
Make sure yoiu have the negative of the battery disconnected when doing this activity.
Or it might be a bad pick up in the distributor since it is probably a magnetic/HEI type dist. You might end up just replacing the whole thing though if it is worn and you don't know how to re-furbish it. :2cents:
Gang - everyone is providing answers without knowing what kind of car we havevhere. Need make, model, yr, engine size, tranny type (auto, man, etc.)
i was waiting till the end of your post for that comment, in school my brother was gaping points on a forklift when the instructor turned the key on, i had tears in my eyes i laughed soo hard, old man instructor was havin a ball too!ZAP ZAP OUCH
Hell I've been doing it for 30 years and I still manage to arc them up now
and again, because I'm not thinking.
I hate points and tend to swap in reluctor wheels and pickups from Denso dizzys. I'm just embarking on doing the same to an Autolite circa 1970 windsor 302...... just have to find a suitable single piece advance plate to replace the POS setup of the original = no wonder the engines ran uneconomically.