HI, guys I could really use your advice on oil leaking.
My 1988 chevy Caprice is leaking oil . It leaks rather quickly.
The dip stick was empty like dry clean so I put 4 quarts in today, didn't seem to leak then I took it for a drive went on the highway and noticed it started to sputter around 50 mph and up, under 50mph it ran fine. It is a 305 v8 carberated. I stopped at the gas station realized there was a puddle under the engine. I'm thinking rear main seal but this really leaks alot of oil if anyone has any ideas I would be greatful, thanks in advance.
if it's coming out of the rear main, then you have some expensive problems, it could be the oil pressure sender unit, or even oil filter loose or double gasketed, check drain plug. otherwise if the rear main is pouring oil, the transmission has to come out, or the motor has to come out, i would suggest just pulling the motor and taking off the oil pan to do that gasket at the same time, and plastiguage your main bearings, if you just go wapping in a new seal and pay 4 or 5 hours labour to pull the tranni, it may end up leaking soon after the repair because of the play in your crankshaft bearings
When my car was leaking oil when I got it, I had to replace one of the gasket seals. Costed about $90 at the Nissan Dealership.
question did you check the oil level after adding each quart or did you just put in 4 then drove it if oil level is to high you would get to much splashing of the oil in the pan airating the oil air and oil dont go good together just a thought
clean it first.put paper under and see wher its from.it could be a valve
cover gasket,leaking down the back.always change the seal on the drain
plug,i do mine everytime its not worth the headache for 25c .i had some
idiot overtighten and crack mine,and it pissed oil everywhere it was
amazing how much.so i made them steam clean it and they hosed my engine
down and got water in 2 of my plugs.was i pissed even more then,and worse
yet ,i was working at the place! .oil pressure senders are
common.sometimes with certain jobs ,by the time you buy all the tools ,like
changing a harmonic balancer say,you can pay somebody to do it. i put in a
heater core in a 1987 sable wagon.fun that was.but i saved 1000$.oil pan
gaskets are easy.
THE ONE THAT REALLY GATS ME ..ALL THESE SO CALLED EXPERT MECHANICS OUT THERE WHO ARE LICENSED ,AND NEVER TORQUE THE WHEEL NUTS."just use a 300 lb air gun" i had some canadian tire goof put on my lug nuts so tight i broke one taking off the flat tire. THE BOOK SAY 95 TO 105 LBS AND THEY DO 300 AND WARP YOUR ROTORS.now i work on my own cars.at least if i screw up i am to blame.good for you.and you gat atisfaction from it .
first of all i think you may have had a bad experiance with one shop or one guy, but blanketing statements like that are ignorant and uninformed, i did 10 weeks at canadian tire and saw alot of BS not from mechanics but from corporation who force flat rate and promote commision on parts. if you see a guy hammering on the wheel nuts with an impact gun, make sure he's using a torque stick, or will torque them properly afterward b4 you go spouting your mouth at them, and oil pan gaskets are not as easy as you think, one of the most time consuming jobs in my opinion, properly cleaning the gasket surface on both mating surfaces, and if it's a 4wd 5.0L ford goood friggin luck buddy you have to lift motor, and a ford explorer 4.0L the job pays 8.0 hours flat rate. step 1 remove engine so..... in the words of hobo... think type submit.