Chick Doing Front Brake Pads Needs Refresher Course
Alright guys, I am in need of a refresher course on changing the front brake pads on my 1995 Geo Metro, 2 door hatchback, 3 cylinder, 1 liter. I have done them once before but, of course, I can't recall all the details from 2 years ago. Any help would be appreciated, no doubt! So be gentle with me and the more details I can gather, the more likely I am to actually stop on red! Thanks Again, Beth
That looks familiar, is that a rebadged Suzuki?
That would be affirmative. A Suzuki Sprint if I'm not mistaken. The were sold in that and the previous body style in this country under both names. A couple of years ago they dropped the Geo brand and just called it a Chevy Metro. Brand engineering at its finest.
suzuki swift, for the record
Thanks for the discussion, Wally and Dodger, on whether or not my car is a
suzuki swift, its close but no cigar. It is a geo and yes they did just
remodel the name so that people would not look at it being a Geo but
instead as a Chevy. Needless to say the same thing happened to Datsun with
it's Z and as we all know now that it is a Nissan. So, without much more
banter and without buying the guide (becase I can't find one to buy
outright, I would have to wait for it to come in) I really do need some
help on how to go about changing my front brake pads again. Thanks for
trying, though. So once again, I need some details to fill in the what I
You search for this first? I'm to lazy to do it to see if anything would
it's always a little different for a given model. General:
*Take off tire.
*Unbolt calipers and pry/pull them off of the big metal disk (hondas have one bolt, swing up. I think most american cars have two bolts (sometimes under rubber cap and allen or star wrench needed) and pull off.)
*Pads should be clipped in. pull them off.
*Push calipers back into housing. You can do this with block of wood, clamp, or pair of channel locks and a rag over the calipers.
*Put the new pads on, go in reverse of removal.
*Remember you won't have brakes the first few pumps after you are done.
**I usually take the cap off the break fluid resevoir when i am doing this, but don't guess that makes any difference. make sure you don't have fluid sloshing out of it from what got pushed back in. corrosive.
hope that is somewhat helpful. And if you look real closely, I think you can see a diagram for the process on the pic hobo was nice enough to upload for you.
[edit: I said upload, I actually meant to say "steal" from partsamerica. Theif! Theif!]
So you don't reckon it's a Suzzy? Damned good engineering on the 1 litre
three pots from them and Daihatsu, consdering they are near on 30 years
So as lookbothways said:
Loosen respective wheel nuts;
Jack up front and put on stands;
Undo bottom bolt on caliper;
Swing caliper away from rotor (disc);
Use a piece of wire or rope to hold the caliper up tied to a suspenion coil or something handy;
Take a mental picture of how the pads and clips are arranged;
remove pads and anti rattle clips;
Grab an 8" or 10" G Clamp and a used pad;
Put pad over the piston and clamp it with your 8" or 10";
Wind G Clamp to retract the piston;
Take off and place somewhere you wil have trouble finding it , the G Clamp;
Put new pads and anti rattle clips in place;
Undo rope and swing caliper back over new pads;
Put some loctite thread binder on the retaining bolt threads and screw into place;
Repeat for other caliper.
30 minute job
Wally and Lookbothways, thanks so much for your input. I realize that the whole brake thing is pretty boring and simple, for most. But I am trying to become more knowledgeable about cars and their interworkings. So I thank you guys once again, you have me started on the right path.
A meat baster makes a good syringe for removing some brake fluid from the
resivoir before bottoming the calipers. (dont use the baster for cooking
If the car has ABS, other techniques are required (such as opening the bleed screw when bottoming calipers) to keep crud from being forced back into the ABS systems hydraulic control unit.
well now if ya ask me(and you didn't) that kind of sounds like 2 shoddy ways of doing brakes. people only throw on a set of pads? meh whatever is cost effective eh? i feel so safe driving on the highway knowing people have crap for brakes.anyway a proffesional brake job consists of a good inspection, have the pads worn into the rotor, if so they have to be machined or better just replace em with new ones. is the pad wear even? did the inside pad wear out b4 the oustide pad? if so your caliper has probably been sticking either on the slide points,pins,or the seal is not retracting the piston fully. how's the brake hoses, cracked or outer rubber peeling off, if so you would probably like to get new ones b4 they fail completely.or just take these guys advice and happy stopping :thumbs: and brakes aren't boring when you really need to stop :mrgreen:
Yeah. On my cars, I usually measure the rotors for run-out and thickness
(then replace them instead to turn them since the metal in the newer rotors
is very thin)
I look for cracked hoses, etc everytime I have the wheels off of the car.
yes, but that wasn't the query was it?
So what advice did I give that implied it was ok to just replace the pads without inspection? How does the changing of the pads using the method I described equate to being "shoddy" ?
Should I review your previous post history and check for comprehensive and accurate information? :wink2:
dont get anal on me dude, giving brake advice can be a dangerous thing. step 1 of all problems automotive would be verify customer complaint, so the first question is why do you think the brakes need to be done? what part has failed or is it preventative maintenance(which is usually not the case cuz people are cheap) i was simply implying you need to get more of the story b4, or just jump all over it like a fat kid on a smartie, and maybe it's just me but i don't think pushing back caliper piston should be an accepted practice in the automotive industry, so that i would say is shoddy
This is why you should ALWAYS lead lazy people to the manual first.
Because this response is bullshit. She can have the manual anywhere in North America off the shelf or overnight at the longest. She's just to damn stubborn and lazy.
While I'm typing, she obviously has no clue about Datsun/Nissan. As anyone with a rudimentary understanding of the company knows, Nissan sold it's cars worldwide as Nissans... Except North America where they were called Datsuns until the mid '80's for reasons I forget.
You guys should be smart enough to know it's better to teach someone to fish than to hand them one. Hell, you cleaned and cooked it for her. Shame on you.
We had Datsuns over here too. There were some classic (sic) Dattos - 120Y, 180B etc etc.. :laughing:
What does "get anal on me dude" mean?
How does a piston get retracted without pushing it?
it means nothing, and the piston doesn't get retracted... you buy a new caliper.
so you need a new caliper every time you go to replace the pads?
Damnit I thought I had found someone who new what anal, in the context of
flaming, meant. :wink2:
I am not aware of having calipers replaced everytime pads need replacing. Is that US thing?
In fact ... if this was the case, then why oh why would the pads be removable from the caliper assembly??
I think I could search all of texas and not find a shop that wears pads
into the rotors. Never even heard of that. But after ten years of my piss
poor break jobs, haven't had a problem yet. Guess I'm lucky? Probably.
Note to the masses: If you see a red saturn driving down the road, steer clear. But don't worry too much, it's all plastic.
It's not people that have crap for brakes you have to worry about, it's folks that don't know their car.
Look, I know that brakes are the lifeline in the car, but let's face it,
they're just a couple of hydraulic rams that squeeze the wheel (rotor
anyway) to slow it down. As long as they're squeezing, the car will slow
down and stop. The rest is all a sliding scale as to how fast the car
stops, depending on:
cylinders (master and slave)
speed of travel
brake application force
etc etc ....
But at the end of the day, you squeeze some fluid that pushes a couple of pads onto the disc to slow the car down.... pretty simple concept. It's not some black art where you need every component to be brand spanking new to operate properly. :2cents:
prime examples of why this industry is such ****ing bullshit, cheap ****s and stupid assholes, thx guys for keeping it the way it is. you just keep doing your proffesional work and hopefully the automotive world will still be in the lines of lawyer scum or dentists, we are the most untrusted people around, wonder why, don't even bother to reply let me do it for you,blah blah blah leh blah blah, this shit tastes great.
and what the **** are you talking about? a shop that wears pads into rotors, smoke some more crack for christ sakes cuz you have no idea what your talking about
I have seen shoes arced to the drums but not pads worn into the rotors, unless they were worn out, and any shop that does that needs to have it's license revoked. I can see where Banff is coming from on the calipers but it is not needed every time, if it goes in easily, is not rusted badly around the piston and does not seep fluid during and after the re-seating.