Drum brake issue...

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I am not 100% sure this is the drum brake causing this but think so. I drive RWD Firebird, 95 with the 3.4L V6. Anyways as I drive my rear wheel like to make a sort of grinding noise... it becomes moreso apparent when the brakes are warm, and even moreso when braking, unless I am braking really hard. I am curious if anyone can help me out and throw out some ideas about what this could be. If you need more info, ask questions I'll see what I can tell ya. Thanks everyone.

posted by  Flame Roller

When was the last time that the rear brakes were done, it sounds like the linings are shot and causing the noise. :2cents:

posted by  srober32

if its the rear you could check the grove in the drum for rust/dirt build-up as well look at the pic for areas that are bent rubbing on drum the pic is similiar to your set up only its off a fwd with rear drums

could be the front disks rust around the outer edge of disk rubbing on the outer edge of the pads

posted by  osborste

Well I can tell from the sound it is in the rear... Also I believe you mentioned a picture, but forgot to post it. Anyhew if it is the drum problem you were referring to would I need to replace the whole thing or what? I've never done maintenance on drum brakes, only worked on disc brakes. Also I've had the car 15-16k miles and no rear brake work has been done, not sure about before then.

posted by  Flame Roller

sorry got side tracked here's the pic

posted by  osborste

You might want to pull the drum off and visually check for dents in the groove that runs around the outside edge of the backing plate or rust buildup there. and while you have it off, inspect the linings for wear and for cracks, and that there is not any debris or anything in the drum.

posted by  srober32

I can't say for sure, as I don't have the same kind of car. However, I recently had the same problem that you're having, and it was in fact, the drum.

My Uncle cleaned it and all of that, but when I replaced my tires, it made it even worse. It was grinding, pulling, squeaking, etc. So, I removed the old ones and replaced them with new ones. And it's perfect now.

posted by  jlynnek

That is what I was afraid of hearing.... replacing the drums I have heard can be a bit of a task... and it probably costs a pretty penny, when I have other fish I wanna fry. But ya gotta do what ya gotta do, so any more advice will be helpful, since as I said I have dealt with disc, not drum. It hs probably been 108k since the drum brakes were fully replaced so yeah, it may be time.

posted by  Flame Roller

Drums aren't that bad, the drums themselves cost about what rotors cost and you just have to put stuff back where you got it to have 'em assembled correctly. :laughing:

posted by  srober32

Well the problem has gotten worse it seems like. I could really notice it when I was on the highway traveling between 70-80 and would let off the gas and let it coast, or if I used the brakes, boy it was shaking something fierce, like my wheel was gonna fall off it was so wobbly, thanks for all the advice, hopefully I can get the problem taken care of on my next free day.....Friday....or on Thursday morning if I am feeling lucky.

posted by  Flame Roller

my guess is someone drove with the park brake on...or the park brake cables are siezed, and they drove and drove and drove and wondered why it was gutless.... :mrgreen: then put the brakes on and cha ching, your drum is all warped to hell now and you'll most likely need new ones, if they got it hot enough your shoes probably cracked down the center, boiled the brake fluid, and ruined the springs for the brakes, check the baking plate too make sure there aren't any huge wear gouges where the shoe's ride on the baking plate, make sure you have a high and hard pedal so your sure there isn't air in the system, check the park brake cables and make sure they aren't siezed, and the star adjusters in the self adjusting brake system aren't siezed either, if it was bad enough you'll see the boots on the wheel cylinders are melted or really hard and cracked due to the heat. you may be able to fix the current problem but have you fixed the cause, that is what seperates the good from the bad. find the cause don't just fix the problem it created or else you'll be back in thier doing it all over again and having to buy new parts again :thumbs: :thumbs:

posted by  BanffAutoSpa_ap

have realized that problem before putting 16,000 miles on it then? I mean the parking brake issue. If someone did that I woulda had signs by now I'd think. Anyways some other people are saying it may be the driveshaft, is this also a possibility?

posted by  Flame Roller

yeah sure but i thought you were saying you had brake problems....anyway check the driveshaft u-joint's they should be tight from yoke to yoke, so grab both yokes and try to turn em the opposite ways. or pull off the driveshaft and pull the end caps off, you'll soon realize if they are fubar or not

posted by  BanffAutoSpa_ap

Car started having gauge electroniv issues yesterday, and the batt power was slowly dying, with being in class till late yesterday and working and having class all day today I haven't had a chance to bring it in, and it actually died on me. Could the lack of juice be somehow related to a driveshaft problem, or am I just one unlucky son of a gun?

posted by  Flame Roller

sounds like your unlucky

a dead battery is not caused by a driveshaft but the battery having dead cells or a bad alternator or wiring problems or a blown fuse for the alternator

posted by  osborste

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