Turbocharging a Mazda Mx-3

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Im thinking about putting maybe a small turbo on my mazda mx-3. It doesnt have a turbo engine, so what upgrades would need to be made to make it even possible for a turbo to to work on it without blowing it up? lol
Thanks for your comments!

posted by  Napalm76

Usually the kits come with all of the materials need to install the turbo, but you need to ask yourself what condition the engine is in.

posted by  srober32

Alright, the question is, how much do you know about cars? If you know a little, just the basics, DO NOT INSTALL A TURBO! Believe me, I have met a lot of ignorant people who do bad things and think they know a lot about cars. Turbos are hard to set up on an N/A. I'm not 100% sure what all would have to be done, but let's look at the basics, you know how turbos work, right? Force air in. Well, according to MSN's database, the MX-3 is running 10:1 comp. You would HAVE to get lower comp pistons, which may come in the kit. You may also have to relocate a few things, I'm not sure, I have never had the opportunity to look in depth at the MX-3. Basically, if you buy the kit, it *should* come with everything you need, but ask yourself how much you know about cars, how much time you have to put into it, (Typical turbo setup, without pulling the block and replacing pistons, is a large amount of time) and if you have all the tools. If you are not completely confident with your skills,tools, and so forth, don't install it yourself. Do it professional, and make sure they give you a warranty on their work.

posted by  Rhokoku

Well the cool thing is, i am going to college for auto mechanics and ive already been to a technical school for 2 years for the same thing...and students can take in their cars to work on them and students and teachers can help do things....so tools arent really a problem, and man power isnt really a problem either....just comes down to buying the stuff. So i can get the engine rebuilt, and turbocharged for free (besides the cost of parts) because its a lab expence. So we'll just have to see how it goes i guess

posted by  Napalm76

Some suggestions for upgrade are: aftermarket clutch, stronger axles, and of cuorse some lower compression pistons. There is a few things you are going to have to look at. How much boost do you want, and budget. First off you need to find the right turbo. It all falls in from there. Here is a list of some of the parts you'll need:
turbo manifold, turbo, bov, rising rate fuel pressure regulator, fuel lines, oil lines, coolant lines, air filter, downpipe, boost guage, air/ fuel guage, and a fuel pressure guage.

posted by  fast4

This is the funniest thing Ive ever heard :orglaugh: :orglaugh:

posted by  CarEXPERT

Stronger rods
decomp to around 7.8;
dump pipe;
close the LSA a bit,
aftermarket ecu;
resize injectors;
upsize TB if req'd;
MAP sensor;
oil cooler;
possibly a small IC;
colder plugs;
usual pressure control.


e.g. standard 1.6 litre, 9.0 CR, 78kW@6200 :

12 pounds boost, IC 75%, 7.8CR, 156kW@6200, TB = 63mm, 411cc/min injectors

posted by  Wally

Wally, Isnt it if you just have an automatic tranny, you have an oil cooler for the tranny oil?

What do you mean oil cooler? the regular engine oil?

posted by  CarEXPERT

No you need an oil cooler for the turbo. A water/oil heat exhanger is best because it gets the oil feed up to temp quickly and keeps it at a fairly steady state after that.

I should have noted that an oil pump or oil filter adaptor is required to get the oil in the first place. But then I would be getting down to specifics, which his tutor should be able to handle.

Some blokes don't bother decomping either, but better safe than sorry.

posted by  Wally

What's the difference in decomping in a big way and putting in a big turbo, and decomping a small amount and using a small turbo?

Excuse my ignorance, but wouldn't it be much the same, just one is effectively burning more fuel in a larger volume?

posted by  windsonian

It's not so much the size of the turbo, but the predisposition of high comp engines to pink with boost. You find yourself retarding the timing to reduce det, which pushes the peak combustion closer to blowdown, lowering BMEP (torque) and raising the EGT to concerning levels and lowering the CHT too far as well.

posted by  Wally

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