Check Engine Light on... this is the error
Hi everyone, I am new to this forum but I think I just might be a regular!
But I have a question... My check engine light is on, and when I got
AutoZone to check it, the error was piso6 idle air control overspeed error
.... My car is a 1997 Mazda 626 automatic, 4 cyc. Can anyone tell me what
this could be? The auto zone guy said it was a valve and that it would
cost 400$ to fix. :ohcrap:
He also mentioned that it might could be cleaned... but I have no idea where this valve is located, or for sure that is what it is. Does anyone have any ideas for me?? I have only had this car since Sept. and at first there was a slight idling problem, it was idling too high in drive. My dad fixed that for me in October, the light came on at the end of january. I dont really notice a big problem with the idling.
And ideas? I can't really afford to take my car to the mechanic.
Hi Tammy...we're kind of quirky here...we like the first post in the Introduce Yourself forum (unmentioned, but we're working on that)......I wish I could help you, but you'll have to wait for our "experts."
For now...Welcome :thumbs:
Make use of the I.Y. forum in the mean time! It'll be great...just try it!
I noticed that as I was browsing the site .... LOL... I just left IY with a thread about myself LOL :D Thanks for the heads up! :D :laughing:
Well Tammy, first and foremost it's always nice to introduce yourself when
you arrive in a new place, especially when you want help. We have a place
for that called of all things, "Introduce Yourself".
Next let me tell you most assuredly that there is no "error piso6". Any DTC you get from your car will start with a "P" then have four numbers, for example P0142. That is, at least for now a dead end.
Now let's assume that your problem lies with the IAC. Cleaning it and the passages in the intake might make a difference. But that's assuming that is where the problem is. You could take the Autozone guy's word for it and replace the part, to the tune of well over $400 part only, and maybe fix it. A quick side note on the Autozone guy. If he was a qualified technician it's very unlikely he would be working at the Zone for $8 an hour. You might not want to take his word on it.
If your check engine light is on, it's on for a reason. With an OBD-II compliant car such as yours, the light will come on anytime there is a problem that excessive emissions that can damage your catalytic convertors. Just because you don't notice a problem with how it runs doesn't mean you're not doing permanent and expensive damge to your car.
So where does that leave you. Well like it or not your best bet is to go to a qualified technician to have your car diagnosed. The small amount of money you pay for their services will be more than made up for in frustration, purchasing uneeded parts and potentially doing more harm to your car than good.
Bottom line is... Take your car to someone who knows what they're doing. It will be far cheaper in the long run.
Im sorry! I didn't know! LOL... I introduced myself right after this! LOL
Ok I will check that when I get home.... I was just going on memory alone on the actual numbers there.
I am not saying I trust the zone dude, just was stating what he said as an idea.... My main question here, is how do you clean the IAC, where's it located? Is this something I could possible do myself?
Ok. What does OBD-II mean?
Ok so the 400$ isn't an option. That's why I am here, trying to see if anyone has any ideas that I might could do myself. I really appreciate your reponse, it does give me a better idea about the situation. Thank you.
On-Board Diagnostic---Second Generation...I'm guessing.
There's an electronic plug somewhere in your engine bay a Diagnostic tool connects to...when connected the tool reads the problem as a number and that number is associated with the problem.
vwhobo is the expert and would know better on the details.
(I just want to seem helpful... :laughing: )
Oh! Ok, that's what the auto zone guy did, when he came up with the idle control thing. You would think they would make cars more simple. Why can't it be like my 4 wheeler growing up? you plugged it up, charged it and drove it like mad! LOL
They do have those...they're called Honda Insights! :laughing: :wink2:
lol Why yes you do! lol
You are correct on the definition. You are incorrect on the location. By law all OBD-II Data Link Connectors have 16 pins and must be in the passenger compartment within 30 inches of the steering column. How's that for automotive trivia.
but those are undeniably pointless IMHO. they make me wanna http://www.mustangcentral.net/mcforums/images/smilies/puke.gif
Would that be the reason for the II part? On my 1988 528e, the OBD is in
the engine bay. On my wife's 1997 740i, it is on the dash under the audio
Why must it be 30" from the steering column?
btw...the count is 8 at 7...:laughing:
Edit: Also on the 1987 325i...in the engine bay.
safety would be my guess...or easy access.
Ok update, guys... the error number is P1506 ... my bad, i thought the 1
was an i
Oh...that is excellent information for vwhobo! :clap:
Okey dokey, this is my second time typing this and you know how painful
that is for me. Server please don't dump me again. First I need to make a
correction to a statement I made earlier so I can sleep at night. I don't
wanna be a spewer of mis-information. The actual specification for the
Data Link Connector is "located close to the instrument panel within the
area that extends from the drivers door to 12" (300mm) beyond the vehicle
centerline". Whew, I feel so much better now and you have some bitchin'
DTC P1506 is in fact defined as "IAC overspeed error". Very simply the idle speed is conrolled by the PCM through the IAC. The IAC is essentially nothing more than a computer controlled, electrically actuated vacuum leak. More air equals higher idle. During operation the PCM performs system self tests and this is one of the things it checks. What the DTC is telling you is that for some reason the idle speed is higher than expected and the system is unable to bring it back down to the correct level.
So what the hell does that mean? Most likely your problem is one of three things. You could have a contaminated or sticking IAC. It's possible that by simply removing, cleaning and reinstalling it will cure your problem. You could have a vacuum leak such as a bad hose, PCV valve, deteriorated gasket, even a loose oil filler cap could cause it. Vacuum leaks are normally fairly simple to find but not always.
Now for the scary one. You said in your first post "at first there was a slight idling problem, it was idling too high in drive. My dad fixed that for me". For the PCM to perform self tests it relys on the outputs of many sensors. If any of these sensors are working correctly, but out of adjustment, it may cause the PCM to set a code for no reason other than this misadjustment. I don't know what your father did but he might have masked the original problem and created another one. This is why I continually stress the fact that unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing on a modern car don't touch it.
So, in closing, I can't tell you what your problem is through a computer. Unless you are a qualified technician or just get lucky you might chase your tail for a long time trying to fix the car yourself. This of course brings me back to what I said in my first post on this subject. Take your car to someone who knows what they're doing. It will be far cheaper in the long run.
GOOD STUFF.......I would definitly take VWHOBO's advise and take the car in to a trained mechanic being in your shoes. Myself, on the other hand, would first obtain the CORRECT OBD-II code (PXXXX) from the PCM. I then would inspect everything from vacuum lines to electrical connectors on the intake and make sure everything passes. I then would remove the IAC (commonly on some vehicles called the AIS motor) and clean it. Sometimes if you do not de-carb your intake periodically it can get dirty and then does not allow the IAC system to operate correctly. If Idle speed is too high, you have too much air getting into the engine if the problem is that AIS motor, or a vac. leak. Symptomology when the engine is cold can be excessive idle speed, or it can be started and then it will cut right off and not want to run at all without holding down the accelerator a little. All I can say without the car is right with what VWHOBO did, and that is.....sounds like an IAC related problem.
So... take it to a mechanic... nothing I can do myself? Do you all know
of any online stuff that tells you how to clean the stuff you mention or
even where it's located exactly?
sorry it took me so long to get back to you, had to go out of town yesterday.
Thanks guys... I have one other problem that is just boggling me, maybe I will post it in a day or two too and see what you all think it could be.
Not being rude here, but if you have to ask those questions......you need not be touching the OBD-II system in that car. These things are very sensitive and no-one on here with any real car knowledge would advise anyone to touch a car if they do not know what they're doing. It is clear that you do not have the knowledge nor skills per say, so do yourself and your car a favor and head to the dealer or other qualified technicial for work. None of us have a problem helping you out, but none of us will advise a non-qualified individual to work on their car either. :thumbs:
i totally understand what you are saying... that's the reason I wanted to
ask about the problem... i am some familiar with the basics of the car, I
wanted to see if it was something semi simple that i might be able to do
myself... if it was something as easy as changing the oil or what have
you... then i could do it, but after getting more info from you guys, I
know it's not something I can do, and it will just have to wait til i have
money to go to a mechanic.
No problem Sparkli........I totally appreciate your quest for wanting to do this yourself and I am extremely glad to see you understand why I said what I did about having the knowledgte and skill to do it. I respect that money could be an issue for you but think of it this way......if you're gonna spend X dollars today to fix it at a qualified shop, or you can try to fix it and end up damaging something, you'll end up spending X+Y dollars and X+Y could = LOTS more than it should. We're here to help out though and if you have questions this is the place for them. Just give us all the technical info. you can and we'll work with it. Have a good one and don't forget to come back and post what ended up being wrong. :thumbs: