93 ford probe 2.0L 5speed - I have owned this car for exactly one week.
The idle was rough at all times on this car and it would stall (at idle) anytime I used the A/C. Being the genius I am I immediately proceeded to check the engine codes using the paperclip technique. I put the paper clip in the wrong terminal. :banghead: When I turned on the ignition the check engine light came on and immediately faded. Now none of my guages work - RPM, Oil, Batt, Temp, Speedometer etc. They all worked fine before my moment of inspiration.
I drove the vehicle after this and it drives the same as before. I also checked every fuse I could find with no success. Please feel free to speak to me as if I were 6 yrs old, I seem to learn a little better that way.
I would take it to a shop but the point of me buying this car was to learn every part of it and do all the work myself so that I am intimate with every bolt and have a thorough understanding of each of its systems. Any help would not go unappreciated.
Had the same problem with my father-in-law's 96 Mazda 626. There are two different fuse boxes. One in the engine compartment and one under the dash. The blown fuse that caused the dash to die was under the dash.
Hi BavarianWheels, I checked the fuse box under the dash as well as the one
in the engine compartment and all looks ok, no blown fuses.
PS Sorry I didnt mention this last post but my dash lights still work even though the guages do not.
Thanks for the help so far.
No need to speak to you as a 6yr old, now. When you start to probe and prod on a piece of electronic equiptment you will learn a fast and expensive lesson, which you did. Get a digital volt-ohm meter and if you have a test light, use it for testing for voltage for lights, not micro circuits. I would say dash is :smoke: ed
Well you've definately got a problem but I don't know what it is. Ya see,
the car you're working on uses Ford's EEC-IV powertrain management system.
That doesn't mean anything to you except this. You can't use a paperclip
to download codes, and the DLC isn't in the passenger compartment. This
car's DLC is under the hood next to the left strut tower.
That means that whatever you jumpered inside the car was the wrong thing. Now the question is, what wrong thing was it? I think this might be one of those instances where a little information/knowledge is dangerous. I'm going to assume that you did this based on the info and picture I provided someone else earlier in the week. The problem is that info was for GM cars only, not a Ford. I'm afraid you may have hurt something expensive.
I jumpered the terminals between the GND and the +B terminal (which is
right beside the Test ENgine terminal). Underneath the hood, drivers side,
between the frame and battery there is a black box labeled "diagnostics"
this is where my misfortune began, a cummunion between the GND and +B
terminal and a bent paperclip.
Question #2 The car runs the same as beore, does this mean my ECU is ok?
PS Yes VW, I did read that post....Now I wish I had iquired a bit further.
The ECM in that car is pretty stout so you might get away with it. Try disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes to clear/reset the computer (yes, it works on that car) then hook it back up and try again. You don't have anything to lose except a little time. If nothing else it gives you a chance to formulate an excuse.
Who says the ECM wan't bad to start with? Get a clue/ don't tell your wife everything :wink2: It will come back to haunt you :ohcrap:
Hey vwhobo and lectroid,
I did as you said to reset the computer but it didnt fix the guages :ohcrap:
but it did blink the hazzard and dash lights for a bit. lectroid said something about the dash being :smoke: ed. and it seems all signs are pointing to the ECM. Is the ECM for the 93 2.5L the same as the 93 2.0L? because I have access to a 2.5L ECM. (hope that wasnt a dumb question)
The car still runs and drives ok though, all the lights work, it seems to all be ok except for the guages/checklights (the rough idle i was trying to diagnose got better after I cleaned the IAC valve, another article I retrieved from here :wink2: .). The most this car has to travel is 3 miles at a time to my work and back. I reset the computer at work, then I drove the car home to write this post, and it ran fine.
Im getting a factory manual soon and I'm hoping I'll get alot more from it than the Chiltons....and If anybody has any more suggestions on how to get my guages working feel free to comment, and thanks to everyone for the help thus far, It may take some time to fix but ill post when it happens.
...and I'm telling the wife it was already broke, whilst I take credit for all your advice and look like a genius. :laughing:
"Experience is the best teacher, unfortunately its also the most expensive."
No, the ECM's are not interchangable. For whatever reason, even though
both the 2.0 and the 2.5 Probes are essentially the same car, and both are
derived from the Mazda MX-6, your car has Ford powertrain management while
the 2.5 has Mazda.
However, if you can find a junkyard that will let you borrow one to plug in, that would be a good first step.
BavarianWheels, I owe you an apology. The meter fuse underneath the dash
WAS blown. Dont know how I could have missed it the first time around.
:doh: Lesson #1 Check Twice Repair Once
I would have replied earlier but I was waiting on an ECU I purchased for $50. Now that I know I only needed a few :2cents: worth of fuses all I can do is laugh. :laughing:
Thanks for all the help fellas, Ive already incresed my knowledge 10 fold.
Glad you had a happy ending :clap:
As for me , I always take constructive criticism as a learning experience, as long as your not trying to kick me in the head. When I'm wrong and YOU know it, correct me or tell me to shutup :mrgreen: Easiest lesson to learn :wink2: