U Joint Replacement / Installation
Got my Chevy Sprint running okay. Whenever I backup, I hear a horrible grinding sound. I have a U Joint that needs to be replaced supposedly. I'm looking for a walkthrough on this procedure. Anyone?
Not knowing much information i'll tell you this.
Since I'm a Dodge guy and not much of a chevy person, I'm going to assume this car is rear wheel drive since you called a u-joint and not cv-joint. First of all, crawl under your car and loosen the to u-clamps on the end of the driveshaft. Take them off. Most cars use 7/16 in. size for this. Once you get them off; you can pull the back end of the driveshaft right off. Pull it toward the rear bumper and the front end will slide out of your tranny. Crawl out, grab your driveshaft and put it on a bench or something. You will then need to look at the inside of the bearing cups and see if you see a clip around it. If not, you should let a machine shop press them out for you. If you see it then do the following. With a screw driver and a hammer, gently tap off the rings. Once you get them all off, with a socket a slightly smaller size of the bearing cup bore, place it over the bearing cup and tap with hammer gently until the oposite side bearing cup comes out. Once it does, tap the oposite end (bearing seat since the cup is now off) until the bearing cup comes out. then pull out the u-joint. Now that was for the differential end, now for the yoke. basically, for the yoke, you do the same thing. Just have to do it for twice as many bearing cups :banghead: Throw away all this junk and buy new u-joints. Put a little grease in the cups on the needle bearings on the new u-joints. WARNING: Careful not to drop or overturn the bearing cups when off of u-joints as you will spill the needle bearings and thats never fun. Once you got them all greased, put the u-joint in place. Tap on one bearing cup 3/4 of the way on, then do the same for the oposite side. Repeat for all bearing cups. Now, tap them in the rest of the way, moving the u-joints as you tap making sure you don't get them in too far and they tighten up. you want them in just enough to slip on the retainer rings on the inside. Once there all on as they should be, you can now tap on the retainer rings. Be careful not to let the rings slip off halfway on as they will shoot off in your face or somewhere and you can't find them. Once the retainer rings are all on, even the two in the back that goes on the differential, with a grease gun, put grease in the front u-joint only for now. Because the backend needs to be on the differential and tighten before you put grease in them because if not they will shoot off under the pressure of the grease. Now take your driveshaft under your car, and make sure you dont let the back two bearing cups fall off. Slip the front spline into the transmission, and put the back into the half circles on the differential. Put on the u-clamps, tighten bolts, grease rear u-joint. and your done.
Usually cars "clunk" when you take your foot off the gas and cruise at about 15 mph and when you put the transmission in gear when you have bad u-joints. i;ve never heard them squeel but it's always possible its the u-joints squeeling.
Devon, you can disregard EVERYTHING Dodge said. He is giving you procedure
on drive shaft U-joint replacement mainly for rear wheel drive vehicles and
others that have driveshafts to a differential. I read no more than his
first sentence and I know that I nor you need to read anymore.
Here we go with people spewing information about thigns they KNOW NOTHING about again. We established this with DODGE a looong time ago and in another posting.
I think the main IQ of this chat forum wtih certain "key" members must be about 28. Anyone should know that a sprint is a FWD vehicle and has CONSTANT VELOCITY joints and NOT U-joints. This procedure is totally different. If you need this procedure, you probably are not qualified to do the work. It requires special tools and therefore should be done by a professional. I am not going to type it out. It is available from other resources.
So Dodge, while you think you look smart with all that fancy jazz you typed out, you totally undermined yourself and you did not help this Devon guy out one bit. What a genious!! You summed up your knowledge of the subject with the one liner you started with and that is the FIRST line in your posting!!!! :banghead:
Hey hey, he met not 1, but 2 of your flaming criteria...! :hi: :screwy: Anyway, like cmeseadoing said the replacement of a CV joint is not as straight forward as one may intially think, get it done right by some one who knows how... :thumbs: :mrgreen:
Damn straight.....knowledge is key to success. High five err good buddy! :hi:
Well, did anyone help DEVON? OR just rag out the Dodge boy for supplying what DEVON asked for, in a pretty in depth, basic form? He asked for information on U-joints- that's what he got! What's a Cheby Sprint? Hell, I don't know, or care. Where is the mis-information???
No Lectroid, DODGE did NOT help out DEVON at all. This was the ENTIRE
point of my posting above. :banghead: Dodge detailed how to install
UNIVERSAL JOINT into a DRIVESHAFT aka PROPELLOR SHAFT and NOT how to
install CONSTANT VELOCITY joints into a FRONT WHEEL DRIVE - drive axle.
DEVON needed specific information on CONSTANT VELOCITY joints and NOT
U-JOINTS which is NOT what he got. If you'd have read the postings and
followed them logically you would see that.
A Chevy Sprint is a small compact four cylinder front wheel drive car made my GM. There are NO driveshafts in this car with U-joints. Being front wheel drive, it has two independant "drive axles" that extend ******ds from the transaxle with inner and outter CONSTANT VELOCITY joints on either end. IN NO WAY are replacing CV joint and U-joints the same. A constant velocity joint does the same thing in priciple that a double cardon joint does. A double cardon joint is basically two separate U-joints placed together to create the capability of smooth power and torque delivery across a wide variety of driveline angles. Hence, double cardons are used on many four wheel drives where the front drive shaft protrudes from the transfer case to the front differential and even on some rear driveshafts where the shaft goes to the rear differential yoke. The reason you would place two u-joints together to create this capability is that with just one u-joint, you are limited to a certain flex angle. With two together, you can double this flex angle while actually cutting out the actual amount that each u-joint has to give by about 50% because you have two of them together working together. This gives less chance of driveline vibrations and driveline cavitations and certain speeds. None of this factors into a Chevy Sprint, it has Constant Velocity joints. I was just explaining how CV and Double cardons are alike.
He said u-joint. Not CV joint. Like I said, I made the assumption he ment driveshaft u-joints.
That ment not knowing much information about his car. I had my doubts about it being rwd. But I'm a Dodge guy and since he said U-joints I took it to mean rwd.
Yes Dodge, you are right, he did say U-joint....in fact, he said:
"Got my Chevy Sprint running okay. Whenever I backup, I hear a horrible grinding sound. I have a U Joint that needs to be replaced supposedly. I'm looking for a walkthrough on this procedure. Anyone?"
So he is mis-informed and/or using the incorrect lingo.
HOWEVER from your end, a Chevy Sprint is a littllllllle itty bitty front wheel drive four cylinder vehicle that does not have any driveshafts. You gave him great information procedurally for U-joints, problem is....he ain't got a rear wheel drive. He's got a small front wheel drive compact car. :hi: So basically I was arguing that it was a shame with all that info. you shelled out..... it was not admisable in this case. :doh:
Happy to see that this one didn't turn into a pissing contest. :clown:
Lectroid, I reserve all my pissing contests for you baby! :hi:
Alright. I understand. That's the whole reason I stated out in the beginning I was a dodge guy and didn't know much about the designs and specs on chevys. I had a feeling it was front wheel drive but since he said u-joints I assumed rwd. I should have done some research first right quick since I had a little doubt. I'll try a little harder next time.
:laughing: :laughing: Don't call me baby,,fag-boy. :laughing: :laughing:
You wish ;-) :laughing:
No problem, that was my point :mrgreen: It's no good posting a ton of good info. for the wrong question right? :thumbs: