So, I finally got this SOB out of the wheel. I was able to remove the inner CV joint, cleaned it up, its good as new, the outter is a different story. After I removed all the dirt, I took a closer inspection. It does not move smoothly at all, it needs a good oiling, and there seems to be a load of dirt and grim on the bottom preventing a full range of motion. I've taken some GOOD pictures, and hopefully somone can point me to removing the outter CV joint from its housing. See pictures:
1. Why bother replacing just the outer CV when for only a few dollars more
you can replace the entire axle assembly. If you think you're saving money
replacing just the outer you'll soon learn the meaning of false economy.
2. Obviously being cheap is the name of your game. So I'm wondering why I didn't even get a thank you for giving you step by step instructions on how to remove the axle. After all, that would have been free.
lots of thanks so far, youre so far the key to my success :). Anyway, it would cost almost 69 dollars to replace something that I can take fully apart and fix for maybe 6 bucks. I've gotten access to the inner CV joint, no wear or anything. BUT! the circular circly thingie that surrounds the bearings is very rough. I'm going to file it down and sand it some and hopefully the bearings will run smoothy..
The last time I priced a front axle assembly for my daughter's car, the axle with new CV joints and boots was approx $90.00
additionally I see it as a waste.
As I said, false economy. What is it worth to have your daughter driving a
car that is safe and trouble free, in addition to having a warranty on the
part if there's a problem. Just because something is the cheapest, doesn't
make it the most economical.
The "circular thingy" as you call it is machined a specific size to match the "bearings". If it is rough it is damaged. If you file and sand on it, you will end up with incorrect tolerances and have a faulty, failure prone part. So once again I'll ask you, what is your daughter's well being worth? Only you, and maybe your wife can decide.
We could start a pool to see how long this CV lasts after he gets it back
into the car.
Seriously, think about this..... That CV is spinning around with every revolution of your tire. Go on a 60 mile trip and that is a lot of spinning, a lot of friction, a lot of metal on metal rubbing. If it was as easy as your making it out to be, then everybody could be building their own components and driving there own cars. (ok, slight exaggeration maybe)
I'm all for saving a buck but there are some components that are too critical to not spend the little extra money on. CVs are one of these components.
Alrighty, job was a success. I took the CV joint totally apart. The pieces
were rather rough/dirty, so I cleaned them to their original silver color.
I noticed that apart from being rough, there were some small chips here and
there. I took out my grinder and grinded them to a smooth finish. I
polished the parts, put them back in the CV joint housing, and filled it
with the best grease I could find. The joint now rotates in its full motion
and is as good as new. I can't figure any problem I may run into. The
pieces are not loose in any particular way.
I found the problem to be a totally breakdown in the grease in addition to no boot. Over the years it seems as if a sludge build up on the bottom of the CV joint cup. Start the clock because this piece isn't a failure. :clap:
If you guys would like, I still have to do the right side, I'd be willing to photo journal the whole process. Any comments?
well.... thanks for reviving a nearly 4 year old thread...:ohcrap:
My only comment is for you to please post back and let us know how that
joint is doing once you get a few miles on it. With you sanding,
polishing, filing and god knows what else on a precision machined part
where everything is made to fit specific tolerances....I would predict
noise from it, driveline vibrations due to excessive play in the joint and
possible even failure as you have been warned about in numerous postings
above. You simply cannot take a bearing mechanism that is made to allow
for numerous angles of rotation where constant torque transfer will still
be allowed and "machine it" yourself from OEM spec. You will end up with
excessive play, wear and other problems that will/can easily lead to
failure. Some things you can redo and fix without worry if your handly
while other things are just not that way. You've displayed a cavalier
attitude, however, even after numerous people have told you so. The
consequences, whether they are good or bad, will be yours.
I am all for saving money, but I don't "save money" when it comes to brakes, driveline and other safety components that can fail and cause the vehicle to lose control. I am sure your daughter (I don't know how old or anything else BUT....) probably is like most females; she knows nothing about the car other than where the key hole for the ignition is and if she should have a drive axle fail at 70mph and have to handle or evasively maneuver the car, good luck. Never mind the damage to the car that can do!! I personally think you're nuts to do what you've done out of nothing more than safety and I hope you DON'T end up paying for it. You have most certainly been warned. I have replaced drive axles on several of my cars and it's like a couple other people have said, you can get them for between 70-90 bucks for many cars out there. That includes the ENTIRE assy: drive axle as well as inner and outter cv joints. :thumbs:
good job telling him ! oh and im pretty sure he has never and will never be back considering this thread is old balls like hobo, it does raise a very good point and this guys daughter is probably dead after the wheel locked up slamming her head on into a semi and now hes in jail for negligence(im sure its spelt wrong, i dont care...its not one of those words i spell every day) and now there is no one to take care of his wife and other daughters so all 3 are out on the street being pimped by large greasy gangbangers sucking dick for blow and why because your too much of a cheap motherf*cker to by a $90 axle.
WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEW!!!!!!!!! :screwy: :laughing:
Oh, please. :roll: Like they'd be able to tell a car accident was caused by filed down CV joints! They'd have to measure the thickness of the exact part to a fraction of a millimeter, and what do you wanna bet they don't get that detailed in their accident investigations. Wonder how many accidents are caused by service errors that totally go unnoticed.
well i may be just a stupid grease monkey but i can asses most car accident from 20 feet away, and most damaged cars in the shop tell a very simple story, so when it comes to insurance companies and protecting thier own interest it pays to look for these things, if you get in an accident on some highways in the rockies and didnt have adequate traction snow tires or chains on the vehicle NO MONEY FOR YOU! they do look
Please, don't confuse her totally uninformed opinion with the facts. After all, she's a woman. What she "thinks" (and I use the term loosely) is far more acurrate and important (in her mind) than what you've learned from hands on experience.
You are SOOOOOOO smart! :hi: :orglaugh:
Come on! Snow tires or chains in a heavy snow area are probably high on the checklist. IMO, insurance companies would not be so quick to total vehicles if they really did get that detailed in their checking. So many garbage vehicles on the road would wind up being worth less than the time it would take to determine the true cause of the accident (if the car were newer and had a higher value, work like this would be done under warranty). I mean, how detailed does your basic accident investigation check really get? Could they tell if an accident was caused by a cracked Engine block, for instance?