I actually have 2 questions....1. I was replacing the rotors on my Mom's
Toyota Avalon and while using a new caliper compression tool I ripped the
boot. I have never replaced a caliper boot....can it be done without
taking the piston out and opening the system?
2. I put new rotors on the car with holes and grooves in it. Now the car clicks (best way to describe it). I think its the pads running across the new rotors and will subside as the pads seat and the new rotors wear a little bit....is this a true assumption or is something wrong?
Thanks for the help...
1. There's no real need to replace the boot unless it's non existant now,
it's only there to protect the piston, and with a rip in it it should still
do the job. Unless you're talking about something else...:thumbs:
2. Are you sure there's not any retaining clips catching on the discs or anything?
well for one if the boot is ripped, allowing dirt to get between the piston seal and the piston bore you will probably damage the seal and either contaminte the pad material with brake fluid and/or lose brake pedal pressure all togather, and if the new pads came with pad shims you probably should have used them
The reason rotors need to be replaced is due to wear and tear; the sides
wear down and eventually get too thin to be used safely; this process takes
years and miles. It's a good idea if you're going to be doing a job like
that to replace the caliper as well, especially if the boot itself has been
weakened enough that the microscopic amount of force required to push the
piston back cracks the boot, it's a good idea to just replace the whole
caliper itself before it leaks and requires you to replace the rotor,
caliper, pads and clips again as the brake fluid will eat into everything.
Whenever you replace calipers or wheel cylanders, it's a good idea to also
drain the break fluid and refill to get all the debris out.
Rotors should NEVER have holes, pits or major grooves in them, period; if they do replace them. Some pads come with minor grooving to increase the surface area of the rotor and therefor breaking power; bigger surface means more friction. If you got that rotor brand new, return it. It should be a smooth flat surface with the right number of holes in it to attach it to the spindle and bolts; that's it. If a rotor has a hole through it not only will the holes tear up the pads, hence the clicking sound, but also put a lot of wear and tear on the caliper as the side of the pad scratches against the boot.
Now I have seen duralast breakpads with holes in them; they actually epxoy and bolt the ceramic into the break plate. I'v got those on my caddy; front and rear; and no clicking. Infact, every vehicle I do breaks on I put those puppies on and they work fantasticly. If it is clicking, check your clips and make sure you baught the right pads.
Why change the callipers if they don't require it? It makes no sense. It's not as if you're replacing one brake disc rather than the pair. It's just throwing money at the car for no reason, as callipers can cost alot to purchace in the firt place! As for the holes and grooves you mention....I believe he's talking about putting Grooved or drilled discs on his car....as in uprated discs...not faulty ones...You spent a whole paragraph explaining the physics of how barkes discs and pads work, yet you were talking about a subject that's irrelevent to Nud476. If he had bought discs and pads that were supposed to be standard, yes, he'd have something to worry about... :doh: :laughing:
ive seen waaaaaaaay to many calipers fail, almost always right after a shop did his breaks and squeezed back calipers or the slides werent properly repaired, i wouldn't let my mom drive with calipers that have run through a set of breaks and i certainly dont recommend anyone else do it, but yeah sure save the 100-200 dollars and just do your breaks again in a couple months, its called peace of mind and selling preventative maintenace, less comebacks and better customer relationships if they understand what a professional break job should be.
1: The only time you need to cool a rotor or breakpads is when you're
racing or if you're dealing with a larger application. Sure, some pads
have holes in them; this is in my opinion an idiotic thing to do with a
street vehicle. Not only do the holes allow debris inbetween the rotor
surfaces but it also allows the rotor surface to slowly rust away around
the hole, not to mention it tears up the pads. Additionally, street
vehicles have to deal with conditions which are not ideal such as snow,
ice, sleet, oil, dirt roads, heavy continous moisture and outside storage;
racing vehicle don't.
2: Sure, you can re-use calipers. The problem is it's due for a failure. There comes a point where you've used something and it should be replaced, and if the rotor has worn down and the plate has worn and cracked, then now is likely that time. Sure, you might be able to get away with it and I'm sure people do. However, I'm a person who'd rather replace them when it's time than wait for a caliper failure to, at minimum, destroy the pads, and at worst, destroy the entire breaking mechanism or the car. Looking at autozone, it'll cost for a 2000 avalon around $150 total, $70 of that being a core charge in all in all, he's set back $80 for a new pair of duralast calipers and another $4 for a quart of dot 3, plus a few hours of work. If he returns the racing rotors, he saves some money. More importantly, he isn't doing the same job 6-months down the line.
That sounds like back tracking to me, lol. You are now saying that it's
perfectly ok to have drilled/grooved discs as long as it's on a race car? I
agree with that, as you wouldn't really notice any difference on a standard
road car anyway. However, you stated that discs should NEVER have holes or
grooves in them and if you discover any, you should replace them
immediately, which was you saying that you thought he bought faulty
As for the calipers, if they were renound to failing, manufacturers would advise replacement intervals. The point is, you can replace them if you like, but 99% of the time they'll be reliable enough, and they'll only fail if there's a problem with them (ie; they're leaking fluid etc).
You must come to the realization, cliffy, that being wrong is a good thing.
I like being wrong; it means I'v learned something.
Best place to bs around is on some forums; you learn that way before doing something the stupid way. :)
I do like your thinking, but BS'ing and learning are two very different things. I blag my way through life sometimes, it's a good thing to be able to master, lol.