I'm about to replace the coolant temp sensor in my Grand Am and I want to
know if I should drain the fluids before taking it out. I don't want
coolant to gush out everywhere! I don't think I'll have a problem because
of where it's located (near the top of the block behind the spark plugs)
but it's always good to be safe.
Thanks for your help. :thumbs:
Yes and yes. A gallon should be a safe amount. You already had the answer, didn't you? :wink2:
Which coolant should I be concerned with? The thing is, I don't know if it pertains to oil, water, or antifreeze.
Nevermind that last post. It is most definitely antifreeze. I removed the
sensor with a few groans and a socket wrench and as I expected, coolant
gushed out everywhere. luckily, I thought ahead and got something to catch
it in. But now I have a different problem. Apparently, what I thought was
the coolant temp sensor on my '93 2.3L quad 4 wasn't. The electrical
connectors for the new piece and the "old" piece didn't match. The new
piece's connector was oval shaped. The "old" piece's connector was a square
shape with a notch in it.
Now I have no clue what the "old" part was since it is definitely not the one I thought it was. But the "old" part was pointed out by a friend of the family who is a mechanic. He said (and he pointed to the "old" part) "This could be your problem, the coolant temperature sensor. I would replace this, i'm 95% sure this is the problem..." but maybe he just wasn't sure exactly which one it was.
My question to those of you who read this is: What the hell is the "old" part? AND Where is the real coolant temperature sensor located on my engine. By the way, I have a Haynes manual and it's absolutely no help whatesoever.
Thanks for your help in advance and thanks for just reading this post. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.
I would say that you were probably given the wrong part by the shop, It's more than likely the temp sensor...just the wrong one for your car, take it back with the old one and match the two together :thumbs:
Mate = Friend, Buddy, sexual partner- This just ain't right :screwy:
Trouble and Strife = Wife- This is nothing but the truth :laughing:
The 'sexual partner' bit is an 'or' not an 'and' if ya get what I mean lol
I got what you meant :laughing: Just sounds "NASTY" :badrazz:
You're probably right Cliffy. I believe there are two different "coolant temp sensors" in this engine. One of them tells the car's computer if the coolant is up to normal operating temperature; the other tells the temp guage what to read. I probably got the one for the guage instead of the one I need. :doh:
Is this not what you purchased?
Cliffy could be right. I was thinking you had a Temp sensor and a Coolant level sensor. :oops: If ol Ceme was on line he could tell you.
Yes, that's exactly what I purchased, only brass in color. ( I don't think
that matters though)
but the part I intended to replace didn't have the oval connector end. It was more of a square shape with a notch in one corner. :hi:
Well, I don't know :doh: Return it and take the old one with you, like Cliffy said.... But ,you can also buy a replacement oval electrical connector if you can't get the exact temp sensor replacement. :ohcrap:
Also, the part with the square end... the knob at the opposite end (the end
that does the reading) was shorter and larger in diameter than the part I
purchased. Get what I mean?
(Please don't pay attention to the dots, I had to use them to hold the place of the characters for the crude drawings) * Figure A represents the end of the sesor I bought. Figure B represents the end of the sensor I pulled out of the engine today (crude drawings, very very very crude) :thumbs:
Do the threads on each sensor match and is it a two wire conductor/lead?
Where did you buy this?????Adapter=
Do you mean coolant level? I'm curious.Confused :ohcrap:
I am aware of the Coolant Level Sensor. That's located at the bottom of the
surge tank but i'm not concerned with that. I'm trying to replace the temp
sensor and not the temperature guage sending unit (this one sends the
signal to the guage and turns on the "idiot light". As far as I can tell,
the threads on the two parts match. But, I didn't look too closely. I had
to put the old part back in the car because the new one didn't work plus I
had to drive the car today. So I think I'll go to AutoZone today and return
the part I bought. (Thankfully I found the reciept :thumbs: )
Do any of you guys know for sure where the real coolant temp sensor ( the one that sends the signals to the ECM :mrgreen: ) is on a 1993 2.3L quad 4 engine?
Read Tbaxley's previous post.
:doh: I don't know how I missed that post :doh:
He must have posted while I was responding. Anyway. I believe he and I are talking about the same sensor (judging by the location he gave). Only, the replacement I bought looked like the one lectroid supplied the pic of. Is that a two pin terminal? the one I took out of the car was square and I only saw one pin. Am I messing with the one that sends the signal to the guage? :banghead:
By the way, I appreciate all of the attention this thread is recieving :mrgreen:. Thanks to you all so far.:thumbs: I'm sorry I am so easily confused. :tard:
Your always confused :-D
:doh: So I am messing with the wrong one. Good thing I haven't taken back
the part I bought yet. It could still be the right one. Now I wish I had a
digital camera so I could show you guys just what's going on in there. Then
maybe we could have avoided a lot of confusion.
My next question: is the sensor to the ECM around the one for the idiot light? Because I took out the one that was on the driver's side of the head below the valve cover and that one had the one pin terminal. :screwy:
This might be a noob question, but I'm stumped. :screwy: I don't think I would call this a problem, more like a new development. I've tried many things to get it to shut off, but now the "Low Coolant" idiot light won't shut off. I've filled the reservoir to the fill line and tried unplugging the connector and cleaning it out, I've also tried topping off the oil (it leaks very small amounts) but still the light comes on. Can you think of anything I should try that I missed?
there should be a sensor on the side of your rad, when your refilling there is a cap on the passenger side of the car which allows you to bleed the air out the rad. I changed the thermostat on one of these last independence day, they are a pain in the arse. I havent worked it out yet, i came to the states for a holiday and ended up workin on cars. oh well all good fun learning about the quirkes of your yank tanks.
I understand completely about somethings being a pain in the butt. Timing belts and water pumps on some of the asian imports are a real pain.
On your 1993 PONTIAC GRAND AM,
COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR is:
UNDER HOOD, DRIVER SIDE, UPPER ENGINE AREA, BELOW VALVE COVER, MOUNTED IN CYLINDER HEAD
The TEMPERATURE SWITCH is:
UNDER HOOD, CENTER, LOWER ENGINE AREA, REAR OF WATER OUTLET, DRIVER SIDE OF COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR, MOUNTED IN ENGINE BLOCK
It doesn't mention a level sensor at all!
I get what you're saying, but I don't know what a rad is? I is it an abbreviation for Radiator?
rad = radiator
yup sorry, brit lingo.
It's ok. I had a good Idea of what you meant... just wanted to be sure.
:thumbs: I'll check it out.
I feel dumb for asking this, but... it is antifreze that runs through my radiator right? 'Cause I know on some vehicles, it's water.
Probably a 50/50 Antifreeze/water mix if you're south of the arctic circle :clown:
I would like to see what happens to an engine when the water freezes. For
that reason I doubt they exist(engines with "water" only) :screwy:
70/30 is the strongest. 70% Coolant/30% Water
50% distilled water, 50% antifreeze is good in most parts of the US. Running higher concentrations than 60% anti-freeze or 70% antifreeze will make the mixture too thick for the water pump to pump as well as do some funky things with the heat transfer properties.
really dumb idea but just read the label. genrally will tell you what concentration you need as some is premixed, some is part mixed, some comes neat etc. there are guides to what concerations you should have in realtion to the temp of the climate. the more water the better in the summer as it has a higher thermal capacity 4.81kj/mole than the organic solvents in the antifreeze. but just read the label!
higher constant pressure specific, lower boiling point.
Agreed, the chart on the back of the antifreeze jug will tell you what you need to know.
Here in the US, you can buy pe-mixed 50%-50% at most auto parts places as well as Walmart (A.K.A. Wally World)
most systems are under pressure, i try and change my coolant for summer and winter, although there is only a little diffrence in climate here its always cool/cold. but ive managed to overheat in winter sitting in traffic. can be a problem to get it right.
most antifreeze used in the US is either an ethlyne glycol base or
propolyne glycol (low tox) basw with corrosion inhibitors
Accepted practices here in the lower 48 states in the US is 50%-50% with the colling system flushed and coolant replaced @ 36000 miles. Many cars built here since the mid 1990s use an ethlyne glycol based coolant with a different corrosion inhibitor package allowing the stuff to work "effectively" not having to be replaced until 60000 miles or longer.
since ethlyne glycol based antifreeze is regulated here in the US as toxic to plants and animals until it breaks down, getting rid of the stuff after flushing and filling can be a pain.
depending on the manufacturer, a typical cooling system operates under pressure between 13 psig and 16 psig (to allow higher boiling points)
Thanks guys. I thought it might have been a dumb question, but I know I can come here to have my questions answered. You've all been more than generous in your answers. Thanks again. :mrgreen:
questions aren't dumb unless they are not asked. Not knowing about what you are doing can damage the car at best, get you hurt or killed at worst
In regards to your low coolant light coming on:
There is a switch in the coolant overflow tank that is connected to a float.
Sometimes the float gets mucked up and sticks in one position.
If you remove the tank and rinse it out, it might unstick. (Worked for me on my 93 Beretta)
Advance auto sells a replacement, but i'm not sure how you would change it, since it seems to be formed into the tank.
In the meantime, you can try knocking on the coolant overflow tank to free the float (worked on mine). :)
do you even have a clue where and what the sensior looks like drain the freeging coolant man o man .............. :fu: only if you want to put in more .
always always always on those damn reservoir bottles if they go low, after topping it up the light stays on get a screw driver and tap on the tank right where the sensor float is, this alway works for me. :thumbs:
you obviously have a douche complex, the question is what the **** are YOU talking aboot