alarm going off for no reason. HELP!!!

Home  \  Repairs & Maintenance  \  alarm going off for no reason. HELP!!!

Last week the factory alarm on my '92 Maxima SE started going off for no reason. It happens during the night and also when I'm at work. The neighbors have called the cops twice allready because there is no one around to shut it off when I'm at work. I was told that a factory alarm is hard to disconnect, is there any other solution? Maybe shutting off the siren? It became a real pain in the *** and I just want to shut off the alarm for good. Any input is appreciated.

posted by  xilef

:laughing: :laughing:

Take it too a dealer. (that was hard to say)

posted by  DodgeRida67

Hello to you, The primary problem with alarms going off "most" of the time by themselves is the shock sensor is set too sensitive. There are various settings. If it is an aftermarket alarm, you will find a small square black box with a tiny white plastic dial on it and the numbers 0-1-2-3-4-5, it is often located underneath the dash behind the knee bolster. Turn the white knob to the proper setting you want. If it is not labeled for high to low sensitivity, turn it to a number, get out, lock the car and shake some part of the car. Use the exact same shake to set it where you want it. IF it is a dealer alarm, then it probably a faulty door, trunk or hood switch causing it to go off. Hope this helps.

posted by  MsSnapon

He said FACTORY alarm. Read, think, type.

posted by  DodgeRida67

I hear your point... and it is well taken. However, there are differences which often get used interchangably. There are Factory Alarms, Dealer installed aftermarket factory alarms and plain aftermarket alarms. Most Factory Alarms which come hardwired into the harness do not have 'sirens'. They are wired into the horn(s). The difference there being that factory horns just continue to sound in monotone, aftermarket have dual or multi-tone. Dealer installed alarms can come with or without sirens, and most plain aftermarket alarms do come with sirens. That is the reason I made reference to such. Now, splitting fine hairs a little more, last week I had a Ford Expedition, which came to the dealership with the factory alarm, I programmed the remotes, installed a FORD aftermarket alarm (made specifically for Ford by another company) without siren which cuts out start signal, injector pulse and fuel, programmed into a separate remote, then on top of that I installed a ViperII system which has a siren and hidden push button remote start which over rides the factory and Ford aftermarket alarm, so in essence one can see why I said what I said. Thank you and still... your point is well taken. :)

posted by  MsSnapon

It is definitely a factory alarm. The horn just continues to sound in monotone.
I checked the ground sensors yesterday that are located under the hood and on all doors, they seemed fine. Is it a possibility to disconnect all the sensors, so the alarm wouldn't activate at all?

posted by  xilef

The alarm system is a inter-databuss system, it sends and recieves signals, so if a signal input is interrupted either way it will arm and you will not get SPOUT (spark output) signal and/or no injector pulse width and the fuel pump will become disabled. All Factory alarms share at least two common activities, they cut out fuel and/or fire. Nissans usually flash lights, sound the horn and cut out starter signal. It turns itself off after 2 to 3 minutes when avtivated. Short of taking it to Nissan (and checking recalls or tech bulletins) you can try to find it using a few simple tests. The alarm system in that car will activate even if windows are left open so it will require some work on your part to find the problem. However, Most Nissans have what they call "silencing the horn beep feature" which will quiet the horn but not solve your activating problem. Try this method: Using your multi-remote controller press and hold BOTH the lock and unlockj buttons for at least two seconds. The hazard lights should quickly flash 3 times to confirm that the horn beep feature has been deactivated. If this works then we know the remote controller and theft module are probably okay. Something to note here, deactivating the horn beep feature does not silence the horn if the alarm is triggered by a door, trunk or hood. So if silencing the horn fails then you may start looking at the doors, hood and trunk. Get out, lock the car with the remote. Grab each of the door handles trying to open the door and see if it trips at any one point. Grab the hood and pull up on it, then push down on the side where the hood switch is located. (This is usually a small spring loaded black post looking object on either fender side). Shake the trunk up and down. If none of these trip it, then go around each body panel and rap lightly. If either body panel set it off, odds are you are near the short. If you can replicate an alarm trip then you can narrow the area of fault. If none of these cause an invasion, it is possible one of your door jam/window switches, trunk or hood may be tripping an invasion by sending a false signal. Since the system uses a 6volt backup, if any of the previous wired areas lose voltage they will trip an invasion. You can check the connections inside the doors, trunk deck lid and hood. Remove the panel off the driver door (especially if you had to get a lockout done before or bought it used), look at the lock assembly where the door handle is, there will be a 2 wire plug connected very close to the lock mechancism. Make sure it is plugged in good. Same holds true for the trunk and hood. Since the theft warning system provides alarm if parts of the vehicle are disturbed, you may find the fault by doing just that. Worse case senerio your VASM (vehicle antitheft security module may be faulty. Usually they are located mid dash between the ac/blower housing and the center console radio/climate controls, possible in the upper left hand corner of the driver side dash near the top. I know I have said a lot, but disarming the entire system itself is not an option without a lot of butt connectors, wiring diagrams and days. A snap-on OBDII or Modis scanner may give you a memory code pertaining to the module itself or if it tripped a code stored in memory of the ECM. While you can not clear this code or use the tool to fix it, you can possibly find out 'what' tripped it. The rest will have to be done at the dealership. Hope this helps. Sincerely, Caroline

posted by  MsSnapon

this might sound weird, but just disconnect the battery

posted by  locomex4life16

Your Message