Brake question/advise sought.

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This post may get a little complicated, as I have the same kind of question to ask about two different cars.

OK, Car 1, My daily car. (pug 205) Recently failed it's MOT with a lot of brake parts needing replacing. it's an old car, so this is kind of expected.
So far I've replaced the brake pads, the brake discs (though they were advisory item only), and the flexi-hoses -which were excessively corroded.

The problems came when I started bleeding the brakes.

on the first side I attempted to turn the bleed screw and the head sheared right off. since doing this I decided that rather than try to extract the broken bleed screw I'd see how much a new calliper was, (£50), so I got a new calliper. the nearside is now complete, and bled and the car feels fine and the pedal doesn't feel spongy at all.

The offside, I decided to take the calliper off so as not to make the same mistake again, cleaned it up, applied liberal amounts of penetrating oil. even tried using a blow lamp to try heating the calliper body around the nut, yet despite my best efforts the bleed screw sheared off again...

I decided, what the hell, I'll get a new calliper. so now I'm a hundred quid down on callipers, and when fitting the latest purchase I bled the brakes (bought a bleeding tool with a 1-way valve so that I couldn't mess this up!) but on tightening the bleed screw the screw just came straight out of the calliper pulling the threads with it.
When I say tightening it, I don't mean over tightening. I'd like to say that I believe that the calliper was bad, (it's a reconditioned calliper) with poor threads.

SO I plan to take it back to the shop tomorrow and tell them what has happened and see if they'll send it back to the manufacturer to be re-conditioned once again...

If they tell me that it's my fault, that the part should have been fine when it was sent out I realise that aside from a little arguing I'll have no recourse.

(question 1)
so what are my options? the hole that the bleed screw goes in is now pretty threadbare, can I tap the hole to a larger diameter and out a bigger bleed screw in there?
Can I use some of that stuff that bonds to metal to form a metal like strength bit of material and drill/tap this to the correct size for the existing bleed screw?
or is the only option available to buy a (another) new calliper? (and be more careful!)

The second part of the problem, that I have to ask concerns a different car that I've bought to restore.
there is a problem that the bleed screw is broken off in the calliper, I'm not sure whether I can even buy replacement parts for this car, and have no idea how much they'll be, (there is an owners club website so I'll ask about spares there).

(Question 2)
the question is, how difficult, (and how practical) is it to remove a broken bleed screw? I assume that the bleed screw has been sat in the calliper for 25 years and is fairly firmly stick in there. -(got history with the car that suggests that the brakes were last replaced (more than just pads) in the 80's

can I bath it in WD40 and try with a reverse spiral drill bit?
if that doesn't work can I drill out and re-tap the calliper? (I guess that the practicalities of that will be answered in the first question).

posted by  danny_boy

1. Take the caliper back to the shop and explain to them, they should have no problem exchanging it for you as a faulty part. If they wont replace the item, I guess you could re-tap the thread. Or maybe get a cheaper replacement from a breakers yard. If doing the latter, make sure you check that the part you are getting is the right park for the car, as scarp merchants don't like replacing stuff they dont have to. They should still give you a couple of weeks guarentee though!

2. It would help to know what the second car is, as certain cars are renowned for certain things. For example, Spark Plugs in Fords with the OHV engine that date back a few years are renowned for becoming seized, so much so that they often snap off. I suggest you douse the nipples (sounds sick, lol) in WD40 or similar and leave for as long as possible!

Edit: Just noticed that the second car nipples have actually broken off, or so it would appear. In this case, a replacement caliper would be easier, and shouldn't pose too many problems obtaining them, although a make and model would be good.

posted by  Cliffy


cheers for the advice, I'll go back to the part supplier tomorrow morning on the way to work.

the second car is a standard 10, (sold in the states as a triumph ten).

(it was a cheap impulse purchase on ebay). it's from 1956 (and is older than my dad!

I'm told that it shares a lot of parts with the early triumph spitfires, (as they took the engine and made the bore bigger and put that into a different chassis and made a new car.

posted by  danny_boy

If it shared alot of parts with the Spitfire, chances are that the braking system will also be the same, meaning replacement parts should be reletively easy to come by! :thumbs:

posted by  Cliffy

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