It's a 2003 2.5 liter, automatic transmission, 62k miles.
The car's has been driving badly, shifting hard, and sometimes will only start after 2 or 3 good long cranks. I got P1336 which is the crankshaft position sensor. I also got the codes P0725 and P0725pd. These two are not registered in Autozone's code banks and they aren't in my Haynes manual either. What can I do to know what these codes go to? Also I have not changed the O2 sensors yet is it really necessary to do so at only 62k?
I figured you posted this question here so that Cliffy and/or Satty (two
juvenile names if ever there was... surprise!) could provide you with
guidance and bestow their unsurpassed automotive knowledge and wisdom upon
you. Until they show up, let's see if I can take a stab at it.
P1336 is not a valid code for your Altima... Some Nissans but not yours. The DTC that it most closely relates to is P0335, Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Circuit. The possibly good news is that while the other DTC is a transmission code it may relate directly to the 1336. P0725 verbage is Engine Speed Signal. The input to the PCM for both of these circuits comes from the CKP.
My suggestion to you is to start by getting under the car to inspect the CKP for security or damage. It's toward the back of the block near the transaxle. If you find nothing there, closely inspect as much of the associated wiring as you can see, paying special attention to the connectors for corrosion or water/oil intrusion. If anything is obviously faulty, make the repair, clear the codes and go for a drive. If everything looks good, you have some decisions to make both monetarily and personal skills assesment.
This is not the place to teach you how to chase wires, operate a DSO or read sine waves. So you have basically three choices. Take the car to a competent technician for proper diagnosis and repair and cough up some cash, or throw a $50 CKP at it and cross your fingers. One is a sure fix and the other isn't, so it may or may not be cheaper. But this story gets even better and includes the third choice.
A few years ago, Nissan had a TSB/recall on 2.5L Altimas for DTC P0335 and long crank times. Their fix was to replace both the CKP and the Camshaft Position Sensor as a new and upgraded pair along with a PCM reflash. If you bought factory parts and installed them yourself and then took the car to Nissan for the reflash, you'll probably be in for $250-$300. That's not a quote, just a guess. You should also find out if this has already been accomplished before taking this route. A good Nissan service department can tell you in two minutes just by running the VIN.
So there ya have it. I hope this information was correct and wasn't a waste of your time. I know it's not as well explained as Cliffy or Satty could do, because I have nowhere near their level of experience, but everyone has to start somewhere. Do let us know what route you take and what the results are.
P.S. Don't under any circumstances purchase electronic parts from Autozone unless you like wasting time and effort. From my own direct and indirect experience, you can expect a 50%+ failure rate right out of the box.
P.P.S. You have to know that if this in fact CKP related that it could be caused by damaged cogs on the signal plate which is attached to the crankshaft. There's only a miniscule possibility but just as soon as I don't mention it, some internet expert will come along to say I didn't tell you.
P.P.P.S. Why are you wondering about O2 sensors at 62k miles? Kids.
You betcha. Glad I could be of help. You're welcome.
I appreciate the advice, oddly enough after driving to Bradenton the check engine light magically went away and it's been driving fine ever since. I took the little Duralast CKP back. The wiring harness is a little beat from what looks like water damage and caked on dirt. For a preventative measure should I replace the connector? Or is this another case of if it ain't broke don't fix it?
It's hard to say without actually seeing it. On the other hand, if you can
separate the two halves of the connector without damaging it (pull on the
connector, not on the wires!), I'd certainly consider cleaning it inside
and out with contact or brake cleaner and then putting them back together
with a good glob of dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, water
intrusion, etc. It might not fix anything, but it'll give you peace of
ETA: I wonder why the two most important and knowledgable members of the forum haven't jumped in to help yet. Oh yeah, that's why.
Alright I just spliced the casing apart so to speak and fitted a sort of jerry rigged hard rubber boot for it. I shouldn't have to worry about it anymore hopefully but I'll see how the boot holds up. Thank you for the help Hobo.