Hey its me again and i have a chevy s-10 97' and the front brakes are shot and they need calipers and the whole shibang in the front but backs are fine can some one give their opinion on how much they think this would cost for a mechanic to do ive gotten one estimate for 600 dollars but i think that is a bit steep
That's not steep at all, infact, I think that's quite reasonable. In the UK, to do the calipers alone you'd be looking at £400 to supply and fit both sides, also, most calipers that garages fit are reconditioned.
Between $350 and $450 depending on cost of labor in your area and if your rotors can be turned or need to be replaced
The pads and calipers probably tie up to about 30-40% of that quote you
received. I am sure most of the cost is in the labor.
question: What makes you say the Calipers need replacing? Are they leaking or siezed?
being a 97 Chances are they are split calipers and rather simple to work on. As far as front brake pads or any disc pads (baring ABS which I have not had the pleasure of experiencing nor care to) they are rather simple to replace. I have done them on several cars of all different makes and models and years. I never had too many problems outside of maybe needing a specific tool to loosen a the bolts that secure the halves. Most rotors remove easily as well and can be bought off the shelf at most car parts stores as well. If the bearings are pressed as part of the rotor that job gets a little tuffer, but i think that is not the case for your truck. Once you start messing with calipers though it gets a little more involved and I assume you need to bleed your caliper once installed so you need another body to help you there. I always like to try things first before I take it to the shop. Worse you do is add a tow charge if you really screw up. Most times you can reverse what you do and get it there if need be. Thats my :2cents:
Suggestion 1 Always anytime you are going to pay for a service the three quote rule applies. At least three quotes are needed and do not base you decision solely on the lowest cost. It is important, but also the reputation of the service entity need be considered and weighed in the decision.
Good luck whetever your choice. :mrgreen:
yea thanx for ur opinion and there is no chance at all that i will be doing the breaks myself lol but i am scheduled for another qoute tommrow and i will let u kno wat he says but my friends dad is a mechanic and he says that 600 is a rip off as well and idk much bout cars and i thought that too thanx for ur help
there not that difficult to do.
I did the front brakes on my dads Discovery in under an hour.. That was callipers, pads and disks.. :thumbs:
Most disk brakes are not difficult
Buy a service manual for your car if you dont know the procedures and make sure the brakes are bled well when replacing your calipers. Read it carefully and make sure you understand what you are doing.
Correct, most are fine...has anyone (mainly the Brits) ever changed the discs on a Rover 600?....I once had to take the hub assembley of and stick it in a bearing press...I bottled out at 20tonne and let the boss do it...I hid behind a nearby car :hi:
And the result was? Please say it exploded..!!! I've done them on a m8's Rover Coupe tho..
No...it released eventually, it did nearly go through the floor though, lets just put it this way, you wouldn't have wanted your hand beneath it :wink2:
He he he.. And thats is why you wear steel toe-caps in the workshop...! :hi:
Yes, but I really dont think that steel toe capped boots would help much with 20tonne shooting your foot lol :hi:
But the momentum whilst traveling will not equal the initial force..!! :hi: Some steel toe capped boots i have had for working in the construction industry have been claimed to with-stand something like 20 tonnes!!
Well, there ya have it then lol....I wouldn't really wanna test em out though :laughing: :ohcrap:
Yeah, we have Arthur for that!! :banghead: :mrgreen: :thumbs:
Oooooo, you're so evil lol....*agrees anyways*....Ok, I must no longer reply to this thread, I have to uphold order :laughing:
Well, i'm a convicted post whore so it's ok for me..!
E = 1/2MV Squared
EXACTLY! :mrgreen: :thumbs: Thanks mate!! :smoke:
with out the conditions dodge its a untrue statement
Go ahead and explain this to me. What conditions do you speak of?
Well its only true in a vacuum for 1, assuming no friction for a second etc
Um, try no. :thumbs:
at time t=o the it is true, but you are saying that wd= 1/2 M Vsqd is true
at all points.
This means you negating the effect of friction at t>0 and when you can do that then any one will be able to hit a golf ball as far as tiger woods.
E = 1/2MV Squared Holds true at all given situations at given points
where the variables are at a constant. Because these variables are taken
from any given point and is used as a constant this crap your saying about
friction and a perfect vacuum does not play a role in this formula.
By what you said you do not know what this forumula is, what it does or how to use it. Now I'm sure your going to bullsh*t me on this so to skip a few posts we'll get right to the point of pointing out you bullsh*t.
If a car is travelings at a constant speed of 30 MPH, and the exact weight of the car is 3,000 LBS, what is the kinetic energy in joules?
Good luck kid :thumbs:
But given it was a 1 meter odd fall these factors are highly negotiable.. I do agree that friction due to air resistance could have some effect tho but only in larger senarios.... Is this topic really worth arguing about tho? I think not.. :mrgreen: :thumbs:
E is a vector therfore you have to consider net value. KE is a scalar so its an instentainous energry atributed to body at a velocity, as mass has no direction.
Is it just me or are you dodging a question? :laughing:
Nevermind the whole thing. It's OK. You can't even spell anyway so I won't expect anything from you. :thumbs: :laughing: :orglaugh:
No offence or anything :thumbs:
Sounds like a good idea... :2cents: :thumbs: