Sparkplug torque

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I want to change the spark plugs in my car,
Their hard to get at :cussing: but I can access them, the problem is I can
only access them with my socket wrench not my torque wrench, :banghead:
anyone have any experience with this problem? How important is the torque
on the plugs, and Is their any other way to get around this problem?
Thanks

posted by  Driver-88

DO
NOT
TALK
LIKE
THIS


GEEZ BUDDY :banghead:

posted by  DodgeRida67

DO
NOT
TALK
LIKE
WHAT!! :ticking:

posted by  Driver-88

My god buddy, what do you think? :ohcrap: Everyone has been telling you (me and SJ I think), don't put every couple of words on a new line! :thumbs:

posted by  DodgeRida67

Sorry I’ll stop. I was doing it cus I thought it made it essayer for people to read. :doh: Sorry.

posted by  Driver-88

The question concerning spark plug torque

The specifications vary somewhat depending on if the plug is a tapered seat or has gaskets, if the cylinder head is iron or aluminum, if the plug is a 14mm or 18mm

Rules of thumb:

14 mm gasketed, 18-22 ft-lb w/ aluminum heads, 25-30 ft-lbs w/ cast iron
14mm tapered, 7-15 ft-lb w/ aluminum or cast iron heads,
18mm gasketed - 28 - 34 ft-lb w/ aluminum heads, 32 - 38 ft-lbs cast iron
18mm tapered - 15- 20 ft-lbs - cast iron or aluminum heads

If you don't have a torque wrench (or one will not fit) this can be used as a guide

Gasketed seats - tighten finger tight then tighten an extra 1/4 turn
tapered seats - tighten finger tight then tighten an extra 1/16 turn

May want to use a dab of high temp anti-sieze (Loctite - Felpro C5A, Permatex 133K, VersaChem 13 or something similar) on the threads before installing to prevent siezing.

posted by  tbaxleyjr

Thanks tbaxleyjr
I checked my spark plugs they are pretty bad, and were almost twice the gap
they were supposed to be, they are the tapered kind so finger tight and about 1/16
of a turn my cylinder head is iron so maybe just a little tighter,
I’m buying new plugs soon. anyway thanks for the help. :thumbs:

posted by  Driver-88

What you dont want to do is to strip the threads or cross thread them - heads are expensive propositions

Does the Regal in the picture have the GM 3800 (231 CID). That little V-6 is a potent little motor - I had the a 1979 Cutlass and an a 1984 Regal. I do know they got more potent in the early - mid 1990s. My mother in law has one I just tuned recently in her 1996 Olds 88

posted by  tbaxleyjr

I agree with all that has been stated, however, if you cannot access the plugs with a torque wrench, you can tighten them by hand and by feel. I do it all the time, just do not put all your muscle behind it otherwise you can damage heads obviously. I use my recommended, "just feel it and you'll know"
approach, but I know what I am doing and have done it many times over. :laughing: As long as you get them nice and snug you should be okay.

posted by  cmeseadoin

Yes It’s the 3800 3.8L 231 CID. it’s never lacked in power for me
and you can probably imagine the increase in power with properly
gapped plugs. :thumbs:

posted by  Driver-88

good to know. before I got any replies I though I was in shit now I’m
A lot more confident I can change my plugs without wrecking something.
Thanks :thumbs:

BTW My stupid shop manual sed “tilt the engine forward to access the plugs”
after loosening the correct clamps then putting a rite angle bend in my
freaking tire iron I’ve given up on tilting my engine. If anyone knows how
to do this so it works pleas let me know.

Anyway I’m still happy I can change my plus without taking it to the shop.:mrgreen:

posted by  Driver-88

good to know. before I got any replies I though I was in shit now I’m
A lot more confident I can change my plugs without wrecking something.
Thanks :thumbs:

BTW My stupid shop manual sed “tilt the engine forward to access the plugs”
after loosening the correct clamps then putting a rite angle bend in my
freaking tire iron I’ve given up on tilting my engine. If anyone knows how
to do this so it works pleas let me know.

Anyway I’m still happy I can change my plus without taking it to the shop.

posted by  Driver-88

LOL, tilt the engine????? That woudl only be possible after disconnecting or loosening the motor mounts and possibly the transmission support/mounts. That would only be for the rear spark plugs on the back three cylinders since the engine is mounted in a horizontally opposed fashion. I would think you can get to them somehow without doing all that shit, but again, I don't know. Some of the underhood automotive designs anymore are the dumbest thing I have seen. Good Luck :thumbs:

posted by  cmeseadoin

In my car book, it told me that the starter was held in by 3 bolts and slids out easily, however if the car has A/C you must remove a engine mount and jack up the engine to remove the starter. The :cussing: thing was right. A/C can be annoying.

posted by  Zderad

I've never once torqued spark plugs up, I've just never seen the point in it lol...just use your initiative :thumbs:

posted by  Cliffy

Me either :mrgreen:

posted by  DodgeRida67

I use a torque wrench when I can gain access to the plugs. - the Ford 4.6 L V8 does not have a great deal of metal in the heads -

On the Olds 88's with the GM 3800, and probably with the Regal you can reach the back three plugs from the top but for all intents and purposes, you are working by feel

posted by  tbaxleyjr

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