i have a 96 mazda 626 , i just notice that the coolant start leaking when i start the car ... the leaking is coming from the engine block, but i don't see it leaking from the water pump ... around the water pump is dry and normal .. but i've searched this forum for the same situation, and i saw couple of threads saying the water pump problem ... can anyone tell me what's the problem? thanks .. :doh:
This is one of those things that we cannot really help you with - we can't tell you where your leak is from from online any better than a blind man could. And you didn't introduce yourself :laughing:
I C , introduced...
any one else have other suggestions or tips???
Where on the block is it leaking from?
it's above the oil pan, under the engine block ... that's where i see the coolant dripping out ...
Here is the deal on many inports (and several domestics). I don't know if
Mazda has changed their timing belt philosophy from the 1980's-early
1990's. My discussion is based on their philosophy in this time period
The water pump is located inside the timing case and is a hemorhoid (a real pain in the butt) to access for inspection and to change.
Look for loose or ruptured hoses first. Many of these cars have connections and a section of hose/pipe routed under then intake manifold. Check all of the hoses including bypass lines and heater hoses as well as the top and bottom radiator hose. Check around your thermostat huosing, the coolant temperature sensors, cooling fan switch if equipped and sending unit.
If you dont find leaks in these areas, and the coolant is coming from inside or near the timing case, the water pump bearings/shaft seals are probably shot and leaking through the weep hole.
If you have to open the timing case to inspect, go ahead and replace the water pump. Repalce the timing belt and tensioner while you are in there since this is a 4 to 6 hour job to do.
i guess i will have to take everything out, and inspect those :banghead: thanks guys, i will come back when i'm done :laughing:
very likely it is the freeze plugs or core plugs as wally described. Has
it slowly been leaking more as time goes on? A few could be corroding.
It could also be leaking from a hose and leaking all the way down there and fooling you. The hose that always goes first is the one on top that goes to the heater.... Its attached to the hottest peice of metal.
I don't know about the hottest piece of metal deal but do know heater hoses
fail occasionally -
I forgot about checking the core plugs - (they are there to get the sand out from the casting process when the block is manufactured, not freeze protection) I have never had a car leak from there
Hoses have different routes in different cars. The hose doesnt always go
from the top to the heater core.
However the one on top of the engine is alway the hottest, attached to the hottest fluid in the system it will often corrode first, the clamp will expand more severely and etc.... Ive seen it leaking in too many cars... so even if in this case its not the problem I know I always check that hose first when theres an undiscovered leak.
The freeze plug repair is not difficult but very extremely dirty. Access is often difficult, some of the plugs are behind the starter and exhaust. Hopefully its not those one.
The freeze plug is round sometimes oval. If it is corroding it will start leaking from the edges. put your finger on it, is it wet? sometimes they even perspire and only leak when the pressure is high.
You buy them in a set usually. Youll need a heavy mallet and the wooden end of a hammer at the least or a specialize plug driver if you want.
okie, It's water pump problem... replaced it, and now i have to do the
timing belt .... I had to remove the timing belt to get to the bolts on the
side of the water pump ... so i removed it,
can some one please tell me how to adjust the timing belt? i did mark on the belt and the wheel to make sure to put it back on the same spot, but accidently i turned the shaft a little bit. i just want to make sure that i do it right otherwise i will damage to the engine.... where is the mark on the engine block? by the pulley???? :ohcrap:
thank you :thumbs:
On most cars, you need to make sure the #1 cylinder is @ TDC (distributor
should index @ #1 cylinder as a sanity check). Once you verify this, there
will be timing marks at both the crankshaft and camshaft which will have to
be aligned with marks on the block or on some cars, with each other.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/ 80/14/42/2d/0900823d8014422d.jsp should link you to specific instructions for a Mazda 626 of your vintage. A good Haynes manual or Chiltons is also a good investment.
The belt is tensioned on most of these cars by a spring loaded tensioner.
okie, thank you very much tbaxleyjr .. :clap: :thumbs: