Okay, so its only a little 2-door Toyota Tercel, circa 1990, but I sure
wuld be grateful for any help ideas or advice thrown my way on this...
Left my headlights on all day; battery, 6 months old, was totally dead. Several attempts were made to jump start it, but this thing wqasn't making a peep. No emergency flashers, no horn, lights, etc either. Removed battery, trickle charged it over night. The next am, the fully charged battery was reinstalled but still no ignition. The flashers etc did work, however. A blown fuse, 80amp/Alternator was discovered, and was replaced. The car did start right up following the replacement of the dead fuse with a new one. However, the car wouldn't idle, and stalled unless I pushed the gas pedal to the floor; I managed to drive it about 50 feet, but the car had no power, and ran extremely rough.
My problem starts here, actually. I had it towed to a nearby, unfamiliar garage. They indicated that they would be able to aqt least diagnose the carbefore closing. I only went there because it was Saturday, and I thought, still, that the peoblem must be related somehow to my battery/fuse/alternator/electric troubles.
Besides the fact that these guys didn't even look at it until tuesday,never returned my calls, and initially refused to consider that the car might have some electrical problem or at the very least, damage caused by the whole dead battery/blown fuse episode... sorry, I'm rambling...
Bottom line: the car has a new fuel pump (150.00 plus labor) but still is undriveable. The engine light does not light on the dash when the key is on nor does it light when I start the car.
Now they want to replace the carburetor, a unusual part only found in a few models of Toyota, at a minimum cost of 700-900 dollars.
I want to pay whats fair, but still don't have a driveable car; I ain't letting them touch my carburetor, and can't get 'electrical trouble' out of my head.
Before this happened, the car was driving great, wasn't showing any synptoms of trouble.
Toyta Tercel 1990 2 door carbureted, non-fuel injection, manual transmission, 4cyl.
My apologies for the length of this story. Anyone make it to the end and have a helpful thought? :banghead:
I don't have a clue as to the diagnostic work these folks have done. My
initial impression is these guys are throwing parts @ the car instead of
If the car cranks but does not fire, the troubleshooting should include determine if there is fuel or spark. If there was no fuel getting to the carb. when cranking the car (disconnect the fuel line @ the inlet and check), the fuel pump was a logical starting point.
If there is no spark, the simple stuff should have been checked (dist cap, rotor, plugs, power to ignition module, etc.)
The check engine light not coming on is the first clue. Your car has a feedback carb (we have had a few discussions on these) as well as an electronic ignition system both controlled by the ECM. Trouble codes can help determine what is going on. This needs to be diagnosed to determine if the car took a heavy power surge and damaged some of the electronic control devices or controllers (ECM, a device on the feedback carb, etc.)
This is one where it is tough to offer much more without seeing the car.
I concur with tbaxleyjr that these guys are just throwing parts at your
car. I am also worried about your statement that you found a blown 80A
fuse. Damn, something is wrong there. In your attempts to jump the car
did you guys hook the cables up backwards? Something is not sounding right
here and I don't think we are getting all the information.
If you are not comfortable diagnosiing the car, then my suggestion would be to take it to a different shop (with a good reputation for solving problems) and tell them everything that happend so they can determine where to start.
Thing is, diagnostic work is not cheap. You may have to ask yourself if the car is even worth fixing. Maybe you should put your money into another car.
So you blew the 80A fusable link to the alternator? I strongly suggest starting the car, and checking voltage at various points. Battery post towers, terminals, alternator to ground. Voltage at these points shouldn't very more than 1 volt and should read between 13-15 volts and shouldnt very at trhe same point while running at all. Im thinking one of the following: Fried voltage regulator, or when you ran that battery completely and utterly dead, and then charged it, it's not taking the voltage and current to ground from the alternator which is really making your voltage readings go off the wall.