No Brakes

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I need help my friends, badly.

I was changing the brake pads on my car when i accidentally pressed the brake pedal (bangs head against wall) and the caliper wasnt on the rear left rotor...SO the damn piston comes out and i cant push it back in. Then i decide to let just enough of the brake fluid out of the line to be able to push the damn caliper back in and that doesn't really work as i planned cuz after i get it on i push the brakes and of course they're soft. So i decide to bleed the lines and before i do that i open the hood to check the brake fuid level in the master cylinder...It was fuller than when i started. Confused. So then i decide to bleed the lines and the front two were okay but in the back left one there was no liquid. I tried like 4 times and each time i got nothing. So i put the wheels back on drop the car, turn it on and press the brake pedal to see what happens. There is no pressure what so ever, it felt like i was trying to push a piece of paper. So i dont know what to do or where to go. I read somewhere that each wheel has its own slave cylinder. Is that true cause if so that may be the problem. any help would be appreciated.

posted by  VMJYogi

The brake fluid will go up if you install new brake pads. Caliper pistons will not be pushed in as much because you have more meat on your pads.

I’m assuming that you were able to install the pads on all four corners. You problem is probably due to the air in the lines. Check your brake fluid reservoir. It might be chambered (like in my car) and make sure that both chambers are full before you start bleeding the brakes again. Hope you are doing this with a friend. Make sure to top up the reservoir after you bleed the corner once or twice. Last thing you want is sucking in air.

Good luck! :thumbs:

posted by  sash

might be a leak, and it might even be the master cylinder itself (for some forsaken reason).

posted by  Inygknok

I bled all 4 corners and got nothing. After i bled 'em the brakes were even worse than before i bled them. I'm not sure if its the master cylinder and i think it could also be that there might of been some dirt in the brake lines and that makes bleeding the lines harder to do. I dont have any one helping because i bought one of those do it urself lil vacuum pumps to bleed the lines.

posted by  VMJYogi

well people i must annouce my stupidity...after checking the master cylinder i noticed something odd. it looked full but there was something else... i open it and out comes the damn rubber thing thats inside and what color is it painted? the same color as the damn fluid!!! there never was fluid in the lines!!! but yeah i fixed it...next project. the clutch disc change, and the timing belt replacement. wish me luck people as im only 16 and have no help. oh yeah. its also my first time doing all this crap.

posted by  VMJYogi

ummm, i wouldnt mess with the timing belt if i was u then.... screw that up and ur car is history.

posted by  Inygknok

oh well. the faster i break my engine the more of a reason i'll need to get a new one. hehe.

posted by  VMJYogi

YMJYogi - There is nothing wrong with learning to do work yourself and am glad to see someone motivated enough to try.

I will ask you to go to the library, bookstore, autoparts store, used book store, etc and get your hands on a shop manual for your car before you start. After you get one, I ask you READ it carefully. Autozone.com has online manuals for some cars which has good specs and diagrams but a little to be desired concerning procedures. These manuals especially Haynes or Chiltons are good for beginners since they give step by step instructions for doing a job.

The next thing you should do if you can is make a couple of friends @ a reputable shop or a dealer service department whom you can call upon for advice (I am talking about the 50 yr old experienced troubleshoot man in the department - not the 19 yr old oil change monkey) They can teach you much.

As far as the timing belt goes, it is important to have the #1 cyl @ TDC and the cam shaft and crankshaft timing marks aligned before removing the old belt and installing the new belt. A shop manual should explain this in detail. If you don't know how to do this or you think you will do something stupid such as rotate the crank or cam shaft after pulling the belt, get some help since many engines are interferance engines and serious damage to the valves and pistons can happen if the valve timing gets screwed up. While you are in the timing case replacing the timing belt, go ahead and replace the water pump and timing belt tensioner as well.

posted by  tbaxleyjr

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