1991 Ford Probe won't turn over

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Hello,

I have a 1991 Ford Probe that hasn't started for about six months now. When I turn the key in the ignition I get a quiet buzzing sound from the engine but there is no attempt at all for the car to turn over. My father came down here this week to work on it with me and we had it running for about three days, but as soon as he left to go back home, it stopped starting again.

We changed the starter first, and the car TRIED to turn over, but couldn't, so we checked the battery and found out that there wasn't enough charge to start the car. We replaced the battery and the car ran fine for two or three days but this morning when I tried to start it for work, it had the exact same problem as it did in the first place.

People have suggested a bad alternator which would be draining the battery but when we replaced the starter the first time the car at least TRIED to turn over even though it couldn't... now it doesn't even do that and I find it hard to believe that the starter went bad AGAIN in such a short amount of time.

Any help is appreciated, if you need any more information just ask and I'll do my best to get it to you. I'm not very technically adept when it comes to cars but I know enough to fix them if I have help.

posted by  cepo

Hi, It seems to me like it may be that the alternator is in need of replacing. It probably still provides some charge and that is why you got three days out of one fully charged battery. I dont know what kind of motor is in that probe so I can't be more specific so I'll give you the basics and you can look it up in a service manual which you can find at a library or auto parts store. You'll need to take your alterantor out of the car. FIRST disconect the NEGATIVE battery terminal. then you'll have to remove the accesory belt which drives the alterantor. There is always some way the the belt is tensiooned to keep it from slipping. The manual will tell you where it is and how to losen it so that you can remove the alternator. Soem times you will have to remove one or two extra belts because they aer overlay one on top of the other The hardest part will probably be to remove the belt. Then there are usually a couple of bolts securing the alternator to the motor that have to be removed. There are also a two or three wires attached to it they should be easy to get of. try to remeber which goes where. Once you have the alternator out you should be able to take it a store like Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, Murrays Auto Parts, Pepboys, or the like. Most of them do it for free. IF your alterantor test below spec. Buy a new one (or a remanufactured one in which case they'll take your old one and give you one that has already been rebuilt and runs like new, much cheaper). Good luck.

posted by  wizzyb82

Hmmmn...

I agree with what the previous person said.

Ok try to follow this.

A bad alternator will make the battery bad. A bad battery may kill the starter.

Its a chain.
The thing is, while the battery is low on charge, its dying. So you should immediately try to charge it up. You will kill a brand new no deep cycle battery within a few days leaving it discharged.
You will permanently damage it in about 12 hours.
I would invest in a plug in battery charger to help you keep the battery charged while youre figuring out what your problem is.


Ok anyhow, charge or replace the battery. Drive it to kragen auto possibly, where they will do a free alternator test. It might be just the belt needs tightening. Look at the condition of the belt, is it too loose? They can test it without removing it, which sounds much easier. If that chain is in your area or if some other chain in your area does the same thing. Any auto place can test it also, just not usually free....

You could replace the alternator yourself, I dont think its difficult, but its very car dependent how difficult it is. You could pay to have it fixed also.

posted by  stamar

Yes, My boyfriend has a 1991 ford probe GL and its doing the same thing. thanks for the help and i hope that all your guys cars run well. thanks! stang_chic

posted by  stang_chic

your car has a mazda engine.the starter that you put in,was new?,check the battery.sometimes a dead cell will supply enough current to run all kinds of stuff,but will not supply 200 amps to start the car.a fully charged battery will run the car for a few days as long as you do not run high current items.I have seen alot of these kinds of cars that have 400 or 600 watt amps in them.the amplifier can kill the battery,if installed incorrect.(standby current).THIS IS WHAT I WOULD DO. 1)CURRENT TEST THE BATTERY.2)TEST THE STARTER OUT OF THE CAR.CHECK ALL CABLES,TERMINALS,AND THEN MAKE SURE THE ALTERNATOR IS WORKING.IF YOU START THE CAR,DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND IT STAYS RUNNING,WITH ALL ELECTRICS ON,THE ALTERNATOR IS GOOD.

posted by  the lobster

This one too buddy, sorry just trying to help you save face here

posted by  BanffAutoSpa_ap

Take it as I'm the only one who's noticed this is about a 9 month old topic :roll:

posted by  88GrandPrixSE

OH I SEE .THE GUY GOT THE CAR FIXED LAST SUMMER.ARE YOU SAYING THAT THE 4 CYL AND 6 CYL FORD PROBES WERE
FORD ENGINES?OR ARE YOU SAYING THAT ALOT OF YOUNG KIDS DO NOT PUT HUGE AMPLIFIERS IN THEM?I DID NOT SAY THAT THE FORD FACTORY
DECK WAS 400W.THE ONLY WAY TO TELL HOW MUCH IDLE CURRENT IS BEING DRAWN IS TO PUT A CURRENT METER IN SERIES WITH THE BATTERY.IT IS COMMON FOR BIG AMPLIFIERS IF THE CONTROL VOLTAGE IS WIRED WRONG,TO KILL THE BATTERY.THE PROBLEM DOES NOT SHOW UP IN DAY TO DAY DRIVING.WHETHER IT DRAWS 150 200 OR 300 AMPS WHEN IT STARTS,IS OF NO IMPORTANCE.IF THE BATTERY IS BAD THE ONLY NOISE YOU WILL HEAR IS THE FUEL SYSTEM.

posted by  the lobster

just commenting on the last sentance of your previous post, if you EVER pull off a battery cable while the car is running to diagnose an electrical problem .... you have absolutely no right to be in the automotive industry, and no right to be the internet mechanic. thats just ****ing crap! period.

posted by  BanffAutoSpa_ap

what i meant was if you get it started,shut off then diconnect.since the alternator will be at full output from a dead battery,the current spike could take out the regulator.if you jumpstart it with no battery and really good cables,it will start and stay running....if you look it also says to remove the starter and test it out of the car.so it would not start then anyway,i appreciate your input ,so i will be more careful how i put my ideas across....thanks

posted by  the lobster

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