Need information on how to replace the motor mounts.
i cant help, but some lincolnmercury dealers could replace the mounts...
gosh, my answers 2 questions r not good..... :oops:
Actually it was quite ingenious, it was one I had not thought about or even considered!
Sounds sarcastic. :ticking:
If you intend to do it yourself, buy a service manual.
Sarcastic, I agree, but don't know if it pertains more to the advice or my
The Lincoln cars are not easy to buy manuals for other than from the dealer. (I have previously tried to get one). Dealer manual cost is usually more than the cost of the repair. I was told the Lincoln manuals are year specific, so not handled by after market publishers. (With owning a Lincoln, I suspect if the cost of the manual was half the cost of the car, it would still be a good deal!)
I was not looking for step by step instructions, just major things which have to be removed to get to the mounts. It is even hard to see these mounts, so I thought I would ask before I remove things like the PS pump and A/C compressor if this is not necessary.
This was my first try at on-line help, so I didn't know quite what to expect. I do know that after I have replaced the mounts, it would not be hard for me to give someone the major steps which needed to be done.
I had some time, so I jacked up the Lincoln today and changed the bad
motor mount. It was really bad. It is not an easy job, but did OK without
a manual, it sure would be nice to have one.
It is good to sometimes get under a vehicle and curse at it for awhile. I found I also have to replace the serpentine belt and a long A/C hose. The A/C hose looks worse to replace than the motor mount. Back to wishing I had a manual.
Removed the defective A/C hose, damaged due to bad motor mount, flexed too
much. Special order on the high pressure hose, don't know exactly where
I'll fild one yet, but I will.
Also determined the rear motor mount is also bad, one more to go. This one seems to be easier to replace. Doing your own work is sometimes a necessity, but I've been doing it for so long there seema to be no other way.
I also have a '58 corvette that needs some TLC, been having so much fun with the Lincoln, I may have to spend some time on the vette too!
So how much is the work on your Continental costing you so far as far as
parts, etc? (This has pretty much turned into a log of your work and I'm
interested in more details :hi: )
Oh, also, did you have to drain all the refridgerant in order to change the AC hose? I've been meaning to bleed down my system because I forced too much freon into it. Problem is finding a shop that'll do it for cheap or free. I've only called Sears so far and have been too lazy to look into others at all.
The belt and mounts are a little over $100.00. I have not found where to
get the high pressure A/C hose yet, so I don't know the cost on it yet. I
may be able to take it to a shop like GoodYear Rubber and have them repair
I didn't have to drain the A/C system, The bad motor mount caused the rubber A/C hose to flex too much and all the freon leaked out. Having the A/C system empty enabled me to remove the front motor mount without removing the A/C compressor. I removed the A/C flange from the rear of the compressor, which was blocking access to the top front motor mount nut.
If your A/C is still working OK, just overcharged, I wouldn't think it should cost too much to have it corrected. Many places will give a free A/C system check in hopes of doing the work. Seems they could remove the extra freon which they get to keep free!
I have owned this car for about 6 years now and the only outside work that I have had done on it was the transmission. I even got ripped off on that, I was charged an added $350.00 for replacing the motor mounts, which they never did! My work shop is a shade tree and a floor jack. (This car holds up the "FORD" reputation, "Fix Or Repair Daily"!. It's name continually changes between "I love it Lincoln" and "Stinking Lincoln"!
I I didn't do all the work on it myself, I could not afford to own it.
Good day today, GoodYear Rubber repaired the hose assembly for $34.00, the dealer wanted $219.00 for a replacement. Back to AutoZone for PAG oil, freon and the rear motor mount that I just returned.
You are my hero!!! :mrgreen:
No, really, I do look forward to doing a ton of my own repairs and maintenance. Should really take a chunk off the total amount required to own a car in the future -- one for which I'd have to make car payments.
BTW, did anyone else ever notice a sharp rise in the cost of freon? I swear, when my Mom bought that first kit, replacement 12 oz cans were like $2.something. All of a sudden we go back to get some more and they have all these cans on "sale" for over $5. Maybe we were just hallucinating before, but I coulda sworn.....
And oh, this one's just to satisfy the tree huggers :laughing: Were you aware that your freon was slowly leaking out into the environment? Or was it something you checked one day and it was like, oops... it's all gone... ?
Due to a bad motor mount the engine twisted toooo much and broke an A/C
line...Poof, all freon gone at once!
The old R12 freon went from about $2.00 a pound to about $40.00 and not consumer available. I think the R135a had increased some also from a couple of years ago. (At least it is still available) My total A/C repair including parts, freon and quick disconnect tools will be about $80.00. Shop estimate to have it repaired was close to $600.00. The motor mounts were approx. $80.00 vs a couple hundred. One must be willing to get dirty though, also how to take a walk to think things over when they don't go so well!!!
Ah. I dub thee Mr. Environmentally Responsible :laughing: Or is that
NOT environmentally irresponsible. Subtle difference :hi:
eh... I learned everything I know about AC repair from this forum starting about four months ago. Total cost for fixing my problem (AC wasn't working) was... mm... let's see...
Fancy factory repair manual (electrical): $75
Cans of freon (waste): $15
AC pressure checker (+thermometer): $9 ...I saw this one in Walmart for 50 cents on Black Friday! Regular price $2.something
Actual part required to fix open circuit causing AC not to work -- Factory terminal connector part: $4
Miscellaneous: Maybe $10
Multimeter and repair manual have both been useful several times over. Repair manual can be resold @ very similar value. No way I'm getting that pressure checker cost back and the cans of freon will be useful as pressure gets lower in any of the R-134a cars in the house (although it is my understanding that this really shouldn't happen in a properly functioning system!)
By the way, I checked my freon pressure again and it's on the high side of "alert"!!! (just before "danger") I will be taking care of this issue today or tomorrow.
So you actually needed a walk to figure things out, eh? Wow, you got jipped. For me, all I needed was tons of information from multiple sources, ever so slightly mild depression over not fixing the problem, a couple million brain cells and four months, and I was good to go! :laughing:
I have never tried it, but it seems like you could connect an empty freon
can like you were going to fill the system, but let the A/C static pressure
put freon back in the can. One of the big cans may decrease the pressure
enough to get you out of the danger zone.
Yea, I needed a walk. Was lying on the cement under the car trying to get a motor mount lined up in a very difficult spot. I had both hands, one foot and one eye lined up where I could see the part and almost had it lined up to get it in place. A !@#@$%^&*() piece of grease fell right in my eye (past my hard hat and safety glasses, before someone says I should be wearing them), so I had to drop everything and get out to clean out my eye! That is when it was time to take a walk. Better luck the second try.
Charged up the A/C tonight, good 40 degree air vent temp, I'm happy.
Next project is to repair the drivers side power window motor and remove the instrument cluster to replace the smoked plastic glass on the electronic speedometer. After many years it decided to develop a burned spot from the bulbs heat. Checked for one at the lincoln used yard, the guy said all of them that he had were burned. Sounds like a design deficiency. I am still looking for the right piece of plastic to use.
I think a Lincoln continental could be used for a mechanics training aid. After owning one for a few years, you will be required to repair about every part known to man.
Now I know the 'can method' is illegal and probably dangerous, but I just
may have to try it. Every place I've asked so far wants to do a complete
evacuate and recharge. THAT'S NOT WHAT I'M ASKING FOR, losers, just drain
a little bit of the freon and send me on my merry way!!! :cussing:
They're wanting upwards of $100 and I just can't do it. Unfortunately, I'm
risking compressor failure, as I've read that that's one of the dangers of
having too much pressure in your system.
OMG, grease fell in your eye?!?!? That sounds pretty........., gross, actually :laughing: .............and then kinda funny! :orglaugh: Okay enough of that.
You are so right about learning a lot by having certain vehicles. For me though, it's just having a car that's almost a decade old. The technology isn't as complex as today's vehicles, and also I'm not messing with a particularly expensive piece of property.
Either way, I'm not sure I could own a new car now, though. It seems every other month, I'm banging the car against a curb when rounding a corner or making a right turn. I'm not a bad driver; these things just happen and I certainly couldn't afford to damage a brand new car that way.
Actually I don't think there is anything illegal or dangerous about putting
the freon back in the can. You close off the can valve after filling and
none escapes into the atmosphere. It also is not dangerous as long as you
do not connect to the high side then start the compressor. The static
pressure in the system is high enough to put some freon back in the can,
but not as high as a full can of freon contains.
I disassembled and fixed my power window motor, so one less project.
Do you know of any inexpensive places to evacuate a system, then?
I seem to be hitting several road blocks, and I'm pretty sure there has to be one where I could get this done... after all, people have to empty out their systems before they can replace pressurized parts such as the receiver/dryer, etc. Or do they mostly have to do that after the system has mysteriously leaked out all of it's freon, much like Ernie's case?