99 Ford Taurus- Acceleration Problems
Hi there, Need a little help here, my taurus works fine otherwise, BUT after the car warms up for about 15 minutes, and after stopping at a light or something and i start to accelerate again, unless i just cruise off gently mu car produces a crazy jerking motion... as if the rpm drops...the car dies off a bit and then it kicks off at a higher rpm. I dont know what it is really....Does anyone know whats going on there and how i can attempt to fix this ??? Thank you in advance for the help..... OriginalTaxi
If you find out why your car does that let me know also at firstname.lastname@example.org cause my car does the same thing it is really annoying :banghead:
:clap: i might have the solution to your problem. on your transmission you have a TR SENSOR (Transmission Range Sensor) check that it is plugged in first if so check that it does not need to be adjusted or changed. For these instructions visit your local autozone and view the 96-99 fird tauras service books on the shelf Chapter 7-2 in the book will explain the TR Sensor to you.
My 1989 olds 98 3.8 litre v6 does the same.anything over 2500 rpm and it
tries to cut off and it makes the car like riding on a horse.back off on
the throttle AND ZOOM AWAY IT GOES.I bought a fuel filter but the original
looks 17 years old and it is rusted on to the lines.
I can hear vacuum somewhere and am thinking it is a vacuum problem.About 2 months ago,the service engine light soon light came on,but reset when I disconnected the battery.
Read The Post On My Olds .the Catalytic Converter Made The Car Do What Yours Is Doing.
the air mass sensor might be the problem in your car that is creating the problem.
no such thing, even a parts guy would be selling you wrong shit if you asked for an air mass sensor, the proper terminology is Mass airflow sensor, or MAF for short, and yes they are a common problem on fords, i know on the GM's AC delco sensors you can press your thumb on the "A" if it had a bad transistor on the IC it would stumble when you put pressure on it, fords.... well maybe tap lightly on it while it's running, unless you have proper testing equipment then it's hit and miss, good luck
before resetting the ECm did you get the codes.
Vacume leaks can be a P.I.T.A. to find and fix.
FOR COMPONENTS THAT HAVE BAD PARTS INSIDE,I HAVE FOUND FREEZE SPRAY WHICH IS 50-F TO WORK BETTER THAN ANYTHING.JUST A 5 SECOND SHOT IS ALL YOU NEED.YOU HAVE TO GET IT AT AN ELECTRONICS INDUSTRY SUPPLY STORE.
NO. the service engine soon came on. my wife was freaking,so i
disconnected the battery to see if it would go because i was thinking it
had a start counter like some of the chrysler stuff.the light went out.the
idle speed was a little weird if prolonged idle.it was a little low.i put a
shot of freeze spray on a couple of parts and it had no effect.(spraying
diodes raises the voltage drop rom .7vdc to .8 or .9 so sometimes spraying
semiconductors will have a minor effect.the cat converter was heating up at
idle.the original owner was bragging that he had 200000 km on the original
plugs.the misfire roasted the poor cat.the car is fine now.revs all the
way.the problem with the hiss was the exhaust flange donut.my neighor is a
GM SERVICE MANAGER,HE PUT ME
ONTO THE IDEA THAT THE CAT WAS BAD.