ChrisV, this is for you...

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On my Coronet, I'm leaving off the factory running trim. I hope you know what I'm speaking of. Anyway, with the trim removed, and the clips, of course now I have the holes drilled where the clips once where in the body panels. They are about 1/4 in diameter. What I want to know are my options of getting rid of these holes and what must be done for painting prep around the holes. Thanks.

posted by  DodgeRida67

It's your loss that you think only ChrisV can answer that question. I have personally done loads of de-chromes and am currently overseeing my son doing his first full de-chrome on his own car.

Pity you'll lose at least one valuable source of knowledge.

posted by  vwhobo

The cost of your knowledge is an insult. Rarely do you help someone without insulting them for asking the question. I think that's why he called out ChrisV, so people like you wouldn't insult him while vaguely answering his questions, thus wasting time and losing focus on the question.

You're source of knowledge isn't as valued as you think...if you consider ctrl+c to be knowledge at all.

posted by  What

ChrisV is (was) the only person who I thought (at the time) would be able to help me. Even if you knew the answer to my question, like you've said before, you have no reason to help me. But ok, since you know, could you please help me out. I'd appreciate it.

posted by  DodgeRida67

You sir are a walking penis. A brewery swilling pig with a modem.... Not only do you frequently tap dance around giving advance but you're so demeaning and condescending... It's the internet you jerk-off. Buy me a cheeseburger with the fact that you told the people on car-forums you know how to dechrome to... Shut up.

posted by  wrecked00

Rarely is someone so consistently incorrect as you, but that is outside the scope of this thread. Once again you are attempting to hijack someone elses thread because you have nothing useful to say. Maybe if anyone on this forum cared for your opinion you wouldn't feel that way about other peoples (mine in this instance) opinions. You are a sorry and pathetic little boy. Back to the subject at hand.

I have no reason to answer your question except... We remain members of the same online community and it's a reasonable, well worded and intelligent question. That's good enough for me.

The best way in my opinion, and a common way of doing the job, is fairly simple.

1. Obviously begin by removing the trim. You'll also want the area around the holes to be relatively clean and certainly free of grease.

2. Start by hitting the exposed surface with a sander to knock back the paint to bare metal. About a 1" diameter (maybe slightly bigger) bare metal area is perfect.

3. Next, using a common screwdriver the appropriate size, scrape the edge of the trim holes down to bare metal. Remember, clean shiny steel.

4. The hardest part. I use a TIG but you can get away with a MIG, fill the holes with weld. You want the new metal to stand slightly proud of the base metal. It's a good idea to practice on some scrap sheetmetal to minimize the possibility of blowing holes through your car. Weld in short bursts to keep the heat down and reduce warpage. If you don't have access to either of the above pieces of welding equipment you can do the same thing with an oxy-acetylene rig, but... Braze the holes, don't weld them. Remember heat.

5. After the holes are filled, grind down the welds to the body surface or very slightly below. I use a 3 1/2" cutting wheel on a die grinder for this as it's much easier to control than a big ass grinder.

6. Follow this with a skim coat of platic body filler and sand smooth. If you want it to be perfect you can spend more time on the grinding and make it look like no welding was ever done, including the back side if you can access it.

7. Continue with normal body prep.

Keep in mind that excess heat is the enemy of your sheetmetal. Whether you are sanding, grinding, cutting or welding, too much heat will create warpage and generate alot more work to repair.

posted by  vwhobo

Thank you for your thoughts. Coming from someone with no apparent automotive knowledge, no credibility and certainly no concept of what's going on here it means... Well it means absolutely nothing to me. You are further proof that the bottom of the gene pool shouldn't be allowed to breed, or use a computer. May I suggest that you go f*ck off and die.

posted by  vwhobo

Thank you very much hobo. That was exactly what I needed.

posted by  DodgeRida67

Yup, Hobo was just as valuable a source as I would have been. Sorry, I haven't been her emuch, my wife just went through ovarian surgury (she had a tumerous growth in one ovary that was maing it grow at a fairly rapid pace) so I've been home taking care of her and not on the computer.

Tig welding is preferrable, though mig welding works (some of the better MIG welders even have a setting for this operation that lets the wire slowly melt into the hole). If the holes are large enough, you might actually make some filler bits. Use a weld-thru primer like PPG DP40 or 3m and coat the part so that it doesn't stay bare metal on the backside and collect rust.

One thing I've found: never braze anything on the body of the car. The chemical reaction of brazing can generate rust rather rapidly under the new bodywork and paint.

posted by  ChrisV

She alright now?

posted by  Godlaus

gas welding is an art, its very difficult to stop the joint being porus, you can get primers and also some welding compounds naturally over come the problem certainly dont gas weld on an aluminium structure as it does have nasty effects. Another solution depending on your skill set and preference is to fill with an epoxy. Or weld then lead fill.

posted by  cinqyg

Ok this is off subject, but I just notice cingyg back in the forums! Welcome!

posted by  Ki2AY

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