Just after a quick solution to a simple problem.
I'm in the process of installing a central locking kit in my girlfriend's 1998 Ford Festiva. I had a look at the fuse panel and it actually has a slot for a door lock fuse .... however, all of the used fuse slots have a little metal insert in the plastic panel. That way you can insert the wires from one side and the fuse from the other, and the connection is made. The door lock fuse slot doesn't have an insert, it's just a hole in the plastic.
Does anyone know the best way to get a hold of one (or a pair) of these inserts? I was thinking either getting one out of a wrecked car at the wreckers, or trying ford spares direct.
Also, if anyone knows whether they clip in, or how they attach.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
thats mean, not all festivas were bad, most of them were and i really don;t
know anyone that spent the time to learn to fix them.
sorry i can't help ya
Just buy an in-line fuse holder before you screw that little girls car up so bad she won't be able to drive it. You don't need to be dicking around or I should say trying to modify the fuse panel. :2cents:
haha, I wasn't implying it was junk, I was implying the best place to get
odd parts like that is an autowrecker, that's what I did with my 88GP, I
ran my after market interior lights through it, and my undercar light it
through it. Makes wiring a lot cleaner and easier to access.
You could get an inline fuse, as the previous post said, but if you want cleanliness, do what you were going to do.
Thanks for the responses ... I had considered the inline fuse idea, but
like the last post said, I thought it would be neater to use the fuse panel
- especially considering there is a slot in it that is actually labelled
I'll try the wreckers and then if they can't help me I'll reconsider using an inline fuse ... Although if I did that, I'd want it to sit close to the existing panel anyway for ease of access in the event it blows.
Did you have to get something similar for your GP to wire the new circuits?
Sooooo.....is it fixed? :ohcrap: :laughing:
I got lazy and used in-line fuses. I still haven't done the back doors.
They don't come with cable transfer hinges (no cables required in the
standard model), so I got the front ones working, then looped the cable up,
ready to put in the rears when I get round to getting the hinges. The back
doors aren't used much, so it's no great priority. The actuators are in,
so it's just a case of running the cable from the front to the rear, and
out into the doors.
I also haven't chased out the hazard relay to make the blinkers flash when it gets locked/unlocked. As I said though, the basic function required works, so I'm in no super rush - the car's not gonna be sold or anything anytime soon.
"Cough" Haynes Manual "Cough"
Would be very useful as it has the entire wiring diagram for the car in it...then it tells you what colour the wire is and all you have to do is go looking for that colour
did you even read the thread? I know where the wires were because I put them in myself. What I was after was ... well it doesn't matter now anyway, look at the date
:) Just saw that it was recently replied to...dun blame me someone else did it...
yeah, but he did it deliberately.... to see if i'd done it yet.
it still doesn't explain why i'd need a haynes manual to determine wire colours.
Hey, wind. Was this like your first post/thread here?......if so, I guess that makes you one of the few members to join soley to ask a question...but ends up staying!
nah I did the same thing Cliffy...but you'd need to know so you know which wire to connect the flashers to. Of course you could always find out other ways, but the Haynes manual is by far the easiest way
yes it was ... and if i remember correctly, i was told to introduce myself
and decided to ignore that. could be wrong though, maybe i did say hi at
some point (couldn't be bothered looking).
goldenranger - as for the blinkers, i understand what you're talking about now, but i'll just be looking for the relay and sending the signal to the coil side, because the output from the remote unit isn't sufficient to drive the lamp current, so I'll just find the relay (probably by listening) and hook up the signal cable in parallel with the switch one ... might even stick in a couple of diodes ... haven't drawn the circuit yet