manual transmission or clutch problem
i can't shift into any gear when i'm in neutral. the only time i can
actually make the car run is if i turn the engine on with the car in first
gear, but that will result in the car stalling if i leave it on for 10
seconds without putting it into a drive, which it shouldn't if i have the
clutch pushed down.
and even when i have gotten it to drive (by turning the engine on with the first gear in) i have a hard time putting it into any other gear. it will work but there's a big resistance.
is it my clutch? or is it the tranny? i had this problem a few weeks ago, and i realized my coolant reservoir was all dried out, filling it up and after a few days the car would run smoothly again for a week or two, but now the problem is back. any body can give me some heads up on this?
chances are it's your clucth. other problems could be your hydraulic system have someone push the clucth in while you see if it moves the release fork
I think its your transy
i'm not familiar with all these things, could you elaborate what you mean by release fork, where could i find that.
when you push the pedal it moves a fork placed inside the trans but the fork also sticks out of the housing by where it joins the engine. what you want to do is see if it moves usually 2 to 4 inches
forgot to ask what kind of car is it?
Dude, you are full of it.
really enlighten me i'm a certefied VW and Ford technician maybe you can teach me a few things
Shut the fuk up dodgerider. Carlos knows more shit than you and is willing to help people unlike your dumbass.
Dont start the insults everybody... :banghead:
He isn't helping anyone. He is spreading bullshit. He's telling someone all
about how their vehicle works, and then he askes that person what kind of
car is it. That right there is a BSer spreading & spewing BS. You know all
about what I'm talking about. :wink2:
On most hydrolic setups, there is no "fork." If there was... It wouldn't even be inside the transmission as he is saying.
So...CarEXPERT, you shut the "fuk" up. carlos, you've been enlightened as requested.
it's an 87 Legend v6 2.7L
it is a hydraulic clutch.
if there is a fork, and you said it joins where the engine is, i could simply pop the hood and see it? or is it underneath the car? sorry if i'm still confused.
btw, i am thinking that it is the clutch as well. when i put it into first gear when starting the car and i drive and try to shift into another gear i can do it a bit easier after i hit 3000 rpm, but it gets a bit more stiff when it's around 2000 or when i down shift. that to me implies that it's the clutch because in theory you don't need the clutch to shift gear when it hits 3000, and of course when i slow down the rpm is lower than 3000, probably around 2000 or 1500 and therefore it gets hard to shift.
so with that said, what could be the problem? my clutch isn't spongy or anything, it goes up after pushing it down, so im trying to eliminate the fact that there are air bubbles and i should bleed it....i mean is that what happens when there are air bubbles in the clutch cylinder? the clutch is a bit spongy? i did have to fill up the clutch reservoir and a few weeks later the car got this problem.
thanks in advance to anybody with some suggestions.
chances are it is your clutch by the symptoms you've described its
probably not a hydraulic problem my car was having the same symptoms but it
was not affected by RPM it turned out to be a broken spring(clutch disc
component)that would wedge between the disc and the pressure plate
and not allow the clutch to be disengaged
as to your questions yes it is posible to see the fork if you just pop the hood
by inside the trans i meant in the bell housing as to your statement of,"most hydraulic setups don't have forks" you have obviously never worked on a Honda, and as we all know Acura is a affeliated to Honda would it not make sense they use the same system. SO NOW YOU'VE BEEN ENLIGHTENED
in the case of it being a broken spring, what are my only options? to simply take it to the mechanics? and if so, how much would it cost to fix that? i hope not too much because the car isn't worth much either so i rather just not spend money on fixing this car if it exceeds the car's actual price value or anything close to it.
your only option would be to replace the clutch a job like that can cost anywhere from $400 to $700 depending on the price of the parts and how much the mechanic will charge for for labor. good luck with your problem and keep us updated
i was fearing it would cost within that range, which is almost not worth it
since my car can't be worth more than a grand, so i'll be possibly spending
half if not more on just fixing it.
i tried to check out the release fork, i can't quite figure out where exactly it is, as i dont actually know what it looks like. can you possibly refer me to a picture of what a release fork looks like in general? the stuff under my acura hood looks really intricate, i compared it to my accord 01 and there was a significant difference.
the more i think about this, the more im convinced that it is the clutch, because i can actually shift the gear when it hits 3000rpm, and as mentioned before, when the rpm revs to that point, you theoretically could just change the gear without stepping on the clutch.
but what's confusing me is that i had this exact same problem a few weeks ago, but it went away, i'm not really sure what i did or how it went away, which makes me somewhat questionable on what is wrong with the clutch, and what about the clutch it is that prevents it from engaging. i'm a bit afraid to go to a mechanic and he will do more than what's needed for the car to work again, hence i'd have to pay more than what i should, no offense to any mechanics out there, but there are a handful of them that does this. and luck is just not with me lately.
sorry it took me so long to respond back i had to think about this one.
try shifting into all speeds at idle,but every time your going to try another speed release the clutch, re-apply it and shift to the next one.
you said you could shift at 3000RPM does this apply to all speeds or can you shift some at normal RPMs?
another thing that i should have asked you before ,how many miles does the car have? do you have any maintance or repair history on it?
i'm not quite following what you mean by shifting into all speeds at idle.
what do you mean idle? when the car isn't moving?
no i can't really shift to any speed on anything lower than 3000RPM without it being stiff or giving some resistance. and the only time i actually can shift (with it giving resistance) is if i start up the car by having the gear in 1 and driving off.
and it has about 290K on it, and no it doesnt have any repair history as far as i know, and the maintenance has been quite a while, about 3 years ago, that was the last time it had a tune up. and i know i'm suppose to have my spark plugs checked , but i dont think the spark plugs have anything to do with the clutch, that's at least what i've been told.
but i'd like to bring this up again, my coolant reservoir was all dried out, and when i filled it up, the car would function normal again after a few days, and it was working for like 2 weeks and then the problem appeared again. i know the coolant is important because it helps maintain the engine and other parts. so could that have contributed to the problem?
my radiator (the fans) aren't spinning when i turn the car on. is it suppose to? it will spin eventually, perhaps after 3-5 min of waiting, and sometimes it stops spinning for a bit and starts spinning again. is that normal?
lastly, could it be that i need to check my transmission fluid?
those are some of the stuff that i'm wondering, hope to hear from you or somebody else.
idle is when the car is just sitting like you said.
as far as maintance thats probably what caused your problem. with mileage that high periodic maintance is very important,
drain the fluid any excessive metal in it(fluid looks like gray glitter)would indicate a worn out trans based on the sypmtoms you have mentioned this is my conclusion:
your transmission synchros are worn out and you need a rebuilt(not really worth it because of mileage)high rpm shifts is a common symptom of this
as far as coolant it doesn't really affect your trans or clutch
and your fans coming on and going off is normal your ECT(engine coolant temp. sensor) is an input as to when your fans come on as well as your A/C anytime it's on your fans will also come on
IF anybody else has any other suggestions i would like to hear them i know a quite bit about cars but there's always somebody who knows more
yeah i can't change the gear when the car is idle, and i try to step on the
clutch several times to change it (and each time i try i release the clutch
to try again) but it still doesnt change, when idle.
furthermore, i dont intend to keep the car much longer, just for a few more months, so do you think if i were to drain the fluid (i assume the transmission fluid) and then fill it up again, it would work? or are we talking about the clutch fluid?
also, i assume the transmission fluid is located close to the bottom of the car? i looked through my manual and it shows the location, and what needs to be done is that i unscrew a bolt where the transmission fluid is. unfortunately i can't find a bolt around the surface when popping the hood. however when i actually did find something that looked similar, it looked like it was deep down under the engine and whatnot, and the only way to reach it would possibly be by going under the car. but yeah im trying to make sure that the bolt is actually around underneath the car or not, just to be on the right track.
btw, i appreicate your help and your fast replies, they're very assisting.
Hi, I'm having a similar problem with my car, it's a 2000 Mazda Protege. It has about 62,000 miles on it and the shifter just up and decided that it didn't want to shift anymore. Even in nuetral there is no play in the movement of the shifter, which I find odd. Does the clutch have anything to to do with the shifter not moving in nuetral? My mom also has a manual vehicle in which she has had to have the clutch and the transmission replaced at different times and it may seem that both could be possible problems; however, I don't feel any problems with the clutch and all the gears drive perfectly fine when you can get the shifter in gear. When I push in the clutch to change gears I have to physically beat the thing into gear (which I've heard is not a good thing because I could bend a rod or the fork...but this just happend last night and the car is sitting safely at home in the driveway, so not to worry). I've been instructed to take apart the console and make sure there is no loose change or pins/springs that may have come loose or jammed the motion of the shifter. I would just like to see if anyone had any comments on why the shifter would just stop working or if I just need to take it in to be looked at for a clutch or transmission problem. (NOTE: As far as there possibly being a leak in the transmission causing loss of fluid, our drive is concrete and I pretty much park in the same space every day. There is no indication of any puddles forming under my car. With the gears working well when actually shifted I can't see this being a transmission problem. Then again I could be wrong.)
what exactly do you mean when the gears are being shifted? are you talking
about when you're on the road and you shift (up, i.e. 1 -> 2, 2 -> 3?)
the thing here is that when you reach a certain RPM, you don't need the clutch to engage (per say) in order for the gear to shift. however, if you have a problem down shifting (from 4 -> 3, 3 -> 4, etc.) or you can't shift it into any of the gears when you start up the car while in Neutral, or when you don't have enough speed, as in your RPM is at 1500 perhaps and you try to shift it up, then it's most likely that it's your clutch. the clutch is simply not engaging thus you can't shift the gear. but as mentioned at times you may be able to shift it smoothly, because the RPM has reached 3000 where you don't need to use the clutch.
but yes it's odd that the clutch/tranny just stopped working. the only way i can actually get my car to drive is to start it up at first gear and then just beat it into another gear if i don't reach enough RPM. although i tend to stay away from driving local and take the freeway when i use the car, since i can easily pick up speed and only have to stay on 5th gear, and not to mention having to stop each time at a red light.
Sounds like a master or slave cylinder problem to me. Hows the fluid level
in the master cylinder? If it's low you have a leak. Check any hoses for
Try pumping the clutch pedal a few times before attempting to change gears. If successful have the hydraulics checked out.
i've tried pumping the clutch before changing, no luck there. i've been
told to check for air bubbles which has something to do with the cylinders,
but i'm a noob with these things, i dunno what the master/slave cylinders
look like nor where they're located. the stuff under my hood is a big
mess, there's seriously no space to put your hand in there to look for
fluids in those places that you need to unscrew a bolt to check it.
could you refer me to a general picture of a MC or Slave cylinder?
Can't help you specifically with your car, just the symptoms.
Well, what I mean is that even in nuetral I can barely move the shifter. It generally won't shift up, down or any way unless I beat it into gear. I've always driven an automatic so I've never really come across these kind of problems. I'm just a bit confused since I'm really not too familiar with how a manual works. I mean if you have to have the clutch pushed in to start the car wouldn't a bad clutch mean the car wouldn't start at all? Just a question I was curious about....but anyway....I can't go long without a vehicle so I'm having it towed in to see the car doctor tomorrow. Nothing I can really do about it anyway, atleast not at that scale and with the limited knowledge I have.