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Old 04-13-2005, 03:00 AM   #31
65t0wel
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I found a wiring diagram for my car.
http://www.tocmp.com/tOCMP/wiring/57...re5765-231.jpg

see if you can help me out.
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Old 04-13-2005, 04:17 AM   #32
Wally
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Is the external regulator still being used? I haven't seen a voltage/current regulator for decades, but I used to calibrate them. They need servicing after some years because of contact burn and loss of arm tension.

You can either have an auto electrician or someone knowledgable calibrate it for you, or if it was me I would replace the alternator with one incorporating an integral internal solid state regulator.
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Old 04-13-2005, 05:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65t0wel
I found a wiring diagram for my car.
http://www.tocmp.com/tOCMP/wiring/57...re5765-231.jpg

see if you can help me out.

ok, this test assumes that you pulled the alt. & had it tested, so if you haven't--do it. if the alt. tested good, then from what i can glean from the diagrams...

this is how it should be

first. there should be battery voltage between the positive battery terminal and the regulator casing. make sure it's grounded.

"I" terminal - key on engine off= grounded
key on engine running= +12V (or slightly more)

"A" terminal - this is +12V at all times. if you don't have this, that could be your problem. this comes IN to the regulator, so if voltage is not present, there is a break in the wire between the battery "+" terminal and the "A" terminal.

"S" terminal - key on engine off= +12V (or slightly more)
key on engine running= +12V (or slightly more)

"F" terminal - key on engine off= +12V (or slightly more)
key on engine running= +12V (or slightly more)

Disclaimer: Fords are not my chosen discipline. if any Ford folks have an addition to this or think i'm just plain wrong-let me know.
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Old 04-13-2005, 05:55 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally
Is the external regulator still being used? I haven't seen a voltage/current regulator for decades, but I used to calibrate them. They need servicing after some years because of contact burn and loss of arm tension.

You can either have an auto electrician or someone knowledgable calibrate it for you, or if it was me I would replace the alternator with one incorporating an integral internal solid state regulator.

on modern cars, not that i'm aware of. on a '65 Ford, absolutely.

edit: that was in response to your first question.
if i'm not mistaken, if this reg. is not solid-state, i think parts stores have superseded the P/N to a solid-state unit.
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Old 04-13-2005, 05:57 AM   #35
65t0wel
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the alternator is completely new. got it about 2 weeks ago. old one was pretty worn out. so the alternator SHOULD be good... i do believe it was a rebuilt one, so it might be a dud.
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Old 04-13-2005, 06:02 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65t0wel
the alternator is completely new. got it about 2 weeks ago. old one was pretty worn out. so the alternator SHOULD be good... i do believe it was a rebuilt one, so it might be a dud.

after getting a few dud alternators for cars that suck to change them on, i started having them test them before i even leave the store... they're kinda pissy until they test 2 bad ones in a row while you're standing there
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Old 04-13-2005, 06:11 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodger65
after getting a few dud alternators for cars that suck to change them on, i started having them test them before i even leave the store... they're kinda pissy until they test 2 bad ones in a row while you're standing there
how can i tell if it's a dud or not?

* a good way to tell*
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Old 04-13-2005, 07:54 AM   #38
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try this.

you are lighting up a light bulb.depending on what kind of bulb you are using,the current draw will appear different. (I = E/R). get cheap meter from
radio shack 100kohm per volt or higher,and test the current draw.THEN pull out fuses,one at a time.the circuit that is causing the problem will cause the current draw to go away.or use a lamp if you find that easier,but the problem is that you cannot see a minor current difference like a meter can.
if i was to venture a guess,i would say get the battery load tested,then start pulling fuses out.if you have a decent battery and charge system and you are driving any sort of distance it should charge it back up.....
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Old 04-13-2005, 11:48 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65t0wel
how can i tell if it's a dud or not?

* a good way to tell*

when the guy at the parts store bench tests it, and says "hey, this one's a dud!"
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Old 04-15-2005, 05:21 AM   #40
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so where'd ya go. didja fix it or what?
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Old 04-15-2005, 05:54 AM   #41
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Charging Problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by 65t0wel
I have to charge my battery about.. every 15 cranks.
My car will die on me when im going down the road, i try to crank it.. and the battery slowly dies as i try to crank it up.
The only way to start the car up again.. is to charge the battery,and it then runs fine. any clue whats wrong with it?


This is more common than you would think. Check to see if you have a good engine to frame ground. Sounds simple but you could be grounding through the throttle cable or transmittion linkage.
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Old 04-15-2005, 08:24 PM   #42
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My husband and I are having similar problems with our 68 olds 442. I have found, that most parts stores i.e. Autozone...Orielly's, will test your battery and alternator for free, on or off the car. I think wal-mart even has a tester they can hook up to your car now. We are still having charging probs with our car, but it has helped to narrow down where our problem is coming from. Just a thought. Also, we have also been through enough brand new alternators, that now we have them test them before we ever leave the store with them. These parts stores, can also check your voltage regulator to see if it is bad..they tested ours for us.
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Old 04-16-2005, 02:48 AM   #43
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BEFORE you start your car with the new alt, make sure the battery is in good condition, with a full charge (I suggest 4-6 hours on about 10 amps), and has good connections. Otherwise you may pop a diode or two inside of the alt. Having the voltage regulator tested beforehand is a must as well to ensure the alt is putting out the proper voltage.
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Last edited by srober32 : 04-16-2005 at 04:46 AM.
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