Originally Posted by tbaxleyjr
Lets discuss what synthetics are then give you an opinion only - the ultimate decision is yours.
Synthetics are either Polyalphaolefin (PAO) based group IV base stock such as Mobil 1 or highly refined Hydrocracked/Hydroisomerized API Group III base stock such as Castrol GTX, and several other oils Both base stocks have highly sophisticated anti-oxidant and dispersant additive packages in order meet Diamler-Benz, Volkswagen and other manufacturer's specifications requiring this type of oil.
Most other engines use non synthetic oils.(group III and some group II base stock with additives)
Main advantages of a synthetic: on some cars, longer drain intervals (commercial users may want to verify the correct drain interval with an oil analysis), improved viscosity stability in hot weather ind high speed driving situations
Main disadvantages; Cost
I have read articles published in some lubrication magazines indicating the PAO's don't have a much different coefficient of friction than the mineral oils (dont reduce friction any more or less.)
Opinion - use a good quality (recognize the name brand) oil of the proper viscosity grade and API service classification (I buy whatever is on sale @ Autozone or Wal-Mart for my cars. I have used Shell, Texaco, Mobil, Exxon, Castrol, Penzoil, etc.)
Basically what you are saying is correct. It also helps protect certain parts of the engine, not just operate better. Honestly though, I pay 35-40 dollars for one oil change doing it myself cause I get the best oil, and the best filter, but knowing that everything in the car is working properly gives me the peace of mind that 40 dollars otherwise cant buy.
04 Mazdaspeed Miata #2373/4000: IHI, BBS, Harddog, Flyin'Miata.