Do you have a multimeter?
Is the dizzy points type?
You have probably done the basics, but double check these things:
the spark plugs are gapped properly and there is no cracks in the porcelain;
the leads from the dizzy are connected to the right plugs and the ends of the leads are not corroded;
the contacts (electrodes) inside the dizzy cap have been cleaned of any silver oxide;
the points have a gap approximately the thickness of a hacksaw blade when at maxiumum opening and the points themselves are clean;
the rotor button sweep arm has a clean leading edge;
a side issue make sure the rubbing block of the points has a smear of grease between it and the rotor lobes;
is there +ve 12 volts on the coil +ve when you turn the key to ign without starting the engine?;
:- if so, isolate the battery -ve, disconnect the -ve coming from the dizzy at the coil and connect a temporary wire in it's place, with the loose end's insulation stripped back a fraction. Put battery negative back on. Get a spare spark plug and connect the high tension wire from the coil to it and rest the plug threads on the some bare metal of the engine or chassis. Turn ignition to on, without starting the engine. Tap the wire you put on the negative of the coil to chassis ground and look for a spark at the plug everytime you lift the wire. If you don't have a spark, there's something wrong with your coil or maybe the ballast resistor.
Post edit: Make sure your leads have the correct resistance, especially the one from the coil to the dizzy. If you get a spark you need check each lead the same way and if that is ok, to start looking at things like the points suppressor (condenser), points, etc.
"She gave me a look only a mother could give a child."
Last edited by Wally : 02-20-2005 at 09:18 AM.