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Old 06-28-2005, 02:16 PM   #16
99integra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brownstown
I got ahold of an old Motor Manual from 67 and I followed the instructions in there. It said to check power to the coil with a test light, blah blah blah like we've already discussed. All that was good. The new information I got was this: Hook your test light up to the distributor terminal, slowly spin the motor manually or by cranking and make sure when the distributor cam allows the points to close, the light should be OFF. If not, replace your points. Replace? WTF, I just bought them! So what it was - the points weren't quite closing 100% and it was pretty hard to see, we're talking maybe .005 or .010 of an inch. But I played around with them and bam, fired right up. Unreal. I had no idea how touchy points systems could be, so I'm gonna end it all and throw a HEI unit in eventually.

Like I said, I just wanted to hear it run before I ripped it apart for several reasons. Morale, haha, and I wanted to know that it was in good running condition before hand so when I put it back together it should all be good. Yeah right. Haha. But man! It sounded pretty good! Sounds like it has some balls to it. After sitting for the majority of the past 10 years and last ran 4 years ago and it fired right up and idled on that old ass gas! Wow. So I was a happy man.

Thanks guys for the help. I think I'll be hanging around here for awhile, y'all seem like a good group of people.

Glad ot worked out, and yes, everybody here is nice except for Gay-J
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Old 06-28-2005, 11:29 PM   #17
dodger65
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go to electronic ignition, dude. i switched after i fought w/ my points on the coronet on and off for 3 days. turned out the points were binding SOMETIMES. i would check it out, and it'd seem ok. start it, go 2 feet, die. over and over. i finally caught it...

<--- to points ignition
<----to dual points...
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