Ok, a couple things... Laying a good paintjob down on a car is vastly different than making farm imlements one color. Making it even and not sagging/running/dry/orange peeled is a skill.
Yes, paint needs warmer temps to lay down good. Too cold and it won't flash fast enough and can mottle, blush, and most importantly, stay wet and sag/run very
easy. You can add ore hardener to copensate, but if you add too much it will not gloss and it will be more likely to react with the paint layers below it and wrinkle. I wouldn't paint in room temps under 50 if you wanta good job (I've painted down to the low 30s for cheap ass race car jobs that didn't have to last but they always look like hell).
Another consideration is the quality and type of paint being used, as some are more forgiving than others. Catalyzed paints are easly touched up and reshot over bad areas without chance of reaction, and can be color sanded and buffed out to give a higher shine and get rid of mistakes. Uncatalized paints are what you see is what you get, dirt runs, orange peel, dry, whatever is permanent. And the cheaper teh paint, the worse the quality. Maaco uses cheap synthetic enamels, like Western and Nason. If you spend extra money, they will ada urethane hardener to it for more durability, but it's still cheap paint. (and if they didn't add a hardener to it, you HAVE to strip it completely
off before repainting it with a catalyzed paint, or you WILL end up with a wrinkled mess)
But the single most important component of a successful paint job is prep. Proper trim removal, proper dirt cleaning from every nook and cranny, proper degreasing and de-waxing, thorough sanding with the right grits of sandpapaer, proper priming, correct dry times for each different step, etc. Take care and take your time with prep work, and even cheap paint done in improper conditions can end up looking relatively decent and last a long time.
So I don't have to retype it, here's a link to some prep work info I gave out a couple years back: