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Old 04-10-2005, 02:15 AM   #1
65t0wel
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Car dies while driving.. (battery problems) - need help.

I have to charge my battery about.. every 15 cranks.
My car will die on me when im going down the road, i try to crank it.. and the battery slowly dies as i try to crank it up.
The only way to start the car up again.. is to charge the battery,and it then runs fine. any clue whats wrong with it?
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Old 04-10-2005, 02:17 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65t0wel
I have to charge my battery about.. every 15 cranks.
My car will die on me when im going down the road, i try to crank it.. and the battery slowly dies as i try to crank it up.
The only way to start the car up again.. is to charge the battery,and it then runs fine. any clue whats wrong with it?
Do ya suppose you might have a charging system problem? Read this thread, the same basic information applies to your situation.

http://www.car-forums.com/talk/showt...0951#post80951
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Old 04-10-2005, 02:37 AM   #3
65t0wel
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i have a brand new alternator..but it shouldnt cause the car to die all of a sudden should it?
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Old 04-10-2005, 02:39 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65t0wel
i have a brand new alternator..but it shouldnt cause the car to die all of a sudden should it?
I don't know. As is normally the case on these forums, you want people to hand out information without any background. Try reading this first;

http://www.car-forums.com/talk/showthread.php?t=2200

and then get back to us.
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Old 04-10-2005, 02:44 AM   #5
65t0wel
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Car:
1965 Ford Fairlane 500 289 V8
I have recently put, a new solenoid on it. New alternator.
I bought the car not to long ago. Had no problems until about 2 weeks later, this is the only problem. Guy said some kid stole the battery about 1 week before I bought the car, and that he went to his friends house and got the current battery the car is using which is a 12V battery.

Yet again, car dies when running, brand new alternator. I have to charge the battery about every 15-20 starts, I usually charge it for 1-2 hours.
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Old 04-10-2005, 02:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65t0wel
Car:
1965 Ford Fairlane 500 289 V8
I have recently put, a new solenoid on it. New alternator.
I bought the car not to long ago. Had no problems until about 2 weeks later, this is the only problem. Guy said some kid stole the battery about 1 week before I bought the car, and that he went to his friends house and got the current battery the car is using which is a 12V battery.

Yet again, car dies when running, brand new alternator. I have to charge the battery about every 15-20 starts, I usually charge it for 1-2 hours.
Sounds to me like you have at least two different things going on here. You don't have ANY computers so good voltage, while important, isn't critical. My guess is that you have a charging system problem (voltage regulator?) and that it's not just "shutting off" but that it's petering out from low voltage and you, for whatever reason, aren't realizing there's a reduction in performance until it dies.
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Old 04-10-2005, 03:25 AM   #7
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so any suggestions on what I should do? Should I take out my alarm system? Could that be the problem?

Or could is possibly be the battery? Because the battery had been used before. And was just given to the guy I bought the car from.

If none of this.. what should I do? Go buy stuff? Go get it checked out?
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Old 04-10-2005, 03:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65t0wel
so any suggestions on what I should do? Should I take out my alarm system? Could that be the problem?

Or could is possibly be the battery? Because the battery had been used before. And was just given to the guy I bought the car from.

If none of this.. what should I do? Go buy stuff? Go get it checked out?
Oh, now we have an alarm system. Maybe you don't get it Ace, I'm sitting if front of my computer who knows how far away. I DO NOT HAVE A CRYSTAL BALL. The only thing there is to work with is the information you provide. I don't have the time to dig it out piece by piece, so... When you decide to spill your guts and tell us everything that may be pertinent, let us know.
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Old 04-10-2005, 03:36 AM   #9
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haha dude, im not trying to be a hardass or anything, but i will try my best to explain EVERYTHING to you. There are 2 alarms system i do believe. a glass breaking alarm sensor, and a shock detector. They're both on and working, I currently have the brain unplugged, so it doesn't go off. If you would like the models, I can probably get those, but I have done research on them, and they are very hard to find on the internet, so I suspect they are old or obsolete..???
But I called the guy i bought the car from and he said all he could think of that could be wrong is that the alarm system is draining the battery, and he told me to unplug the alarm system, but the wires all bundled up in such a tight space it's hard for me to get to them without taking out the entire dash. So I took out all the fuses from and to the alarm system(s). But SOMEHOW the alarm system still unlocks the doors... it's insane. But it COULD be a possibility. And thats what I was wondering, if it IS a possibililty that it's draining the battery.
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Old 04-10-2005, 03:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65t0wel
haha dude, im not trying to be a hardass or anything, but i will try my best to explain EVERYTHING to you. There are 2 alarms system i do believe. a glass breaking alarm sensor, and a shock detector. They're both on and working, I currently have the brain unplugged, so it doesn't go off. If you would like the models, I can probably get those, but I have done research on them, and they are very hard to find on the internet, so I suspect they are old or obsolete..???
But I called the guy i bought the car from and he said all he could think of that could be wrong is that the alarm system is draining the battery, and he told me to unplug the alarm system, but the wires all bundled up in such a tight space it's hard for me to get to them without taking out the entire dash. So I took out all the fuses from and to the alarm system(s). But SOMEHOW the alarm system still unlocks the doors... it's insane. But it COULD be a possibility. And thats what I was wondering, if it IS a possibililty that it's draining the battery.

... Alarm systems have 1 shock sensor. The only way to detect a broken window without a shock sensor is with that special conductive tape they put on buildings, and I'm betting your car doesn't have that to say the least. Why would you need two? Last time I check to break a window you needed to bash the glass (unless you have one of them glass breaking spring loaded things, but even that will set off a shock sensor, saw it first hand) which would set off shock sensor. Anyway, back to the topic.

Do you have a test light?

With the ignition in the off position, remove the negative battery cable, clamp the test light to that cable, then touch the negative terminal on your battery, if it lights up, you have a drain, if it doesn't light up, you don't.

You have a multi-meter/volt-meter?

With the truck running touch the positive and negative terminals, should give 14.4 or so.

If this all checks out, take it to a local mechanic and get them to put an AVR on it to check the charging system, may not be putting out any amperage.
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Old 04-10-2005, 03:51 AM   #11
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so, let me get this right, clamp the gator teeth part of the test light onto the negative cable, that is currently taken off the battery, then touch the end of the test light onto the negative side peg?

If it lights, I have a drain? Correct?
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Old 04-10-2005, 03:55 AM   #12
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well, i just went outside. took off the negative, clamped the gator teeth clamp to the negative cable, and touched the negative, no light.

I grounded the test light gator teeth clamp onto a metal part of the car, to get it grounded, touched the negative with the test light. and the test light - lighted up.
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Old 04-10-2005, 04:02 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65t0wel
well, i just went outside. took off the negative, clamped the gator teeth clamp to the negative cable, and touched the negative, no light.

I grounded the test light gator teeth clamp onto a metal part of the car, to get it grounded, touched the negative with the test light. and the test light - lighted up.

You must no't have been making good contact on the cable then, because the ground cable is connected to the body, so it should make no difference, really.

So you have a drain, hook your battery back up. Now what you do is you go to your fuse box, with the ignition off still, and all possible other things turned off (ie. if it has a dome light, close the door if possible). Touch the top of the fuses (the metal parts of course) and if there's current, your found your drain (nothing should be getting power with the ignition off).
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Old 04-10-2005, 04:05 AM   #14
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wow 1965.. i get even get a wiring diagram for it..

so we need lots more info on ur car.. the alternator. how many wires does it have? internal or external regulator? does ur car have a battery light(charge indicator light) if so, does it work?

edit: please explain the test light procedure. i thought it will always light because of the other constant drain.. ie clock. we are suppose to use a DVOM on amps and drain cant be more than 50miliamps.. (.050 amps.)
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Last edited by thongsai : 04-10-2005 at 04:21 AM.
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Old 04-10-2005, 04:06 AM   #15
65t0wel
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GO TO PAGE 2 PLEASE

Last edited by 65t0wel : 04-10-2005 at 04:10 AM.
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