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Old 05-14-2005, 03:15 AM   #16
dodger65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeRida67
Putting metal shavings in a cylinder is not really an option... the only way to avoid that happening is to remove the head.

you do it your way, i'll do it mine...

btw- i agreed w/ you that removing the head was the CORRECT way...

and how much damage are some aluminum shavings really going to do, if you minimize them anyway?
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Old 05-14-2005, 01:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodger65
you do it your way, i'll do it mine...

btw- i agreed w/ you that removing the head was the CORRECT way...

and how much damage are some aluminum shavings really going to do, if you minimize them anyway?
Score the cylinder walls, causing ruined piston rings, lots of blow by and lots of oil being burned. A little shavings does alot.
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Old 05-14-2005, 04:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeRida67
Score the cylinder walls, causing ruined piston rings, lots of blow by and lots of oil being burned. A little shavings does alot.

aluminum is gonna score cast iron?
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Old 05-15-2005, 12:13 AM   #19
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if i grease up the end of the ez out and try that, will it catch the shavings?
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Old 05-15-2005, 12:18 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodger65
aluminum is gonna score cast iron?
Easily.

Quote:
if i grease up the end of the ez out and try that, will it catch the shavings?

No.

If you can possibly get this thing removed without having to repair the threads and without cutting into the broke plug in any way you'll be safe. I don't see that happening.

Next time you install spark plugs used an anti-seiz. Especially on aluminum threads. They ruin so easy it can drive one mad.
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Old 05-15-2005, 12:55 AM   #21
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If you can get a needle rod started between the casing and the threads, try to get the casing to fold in towards the center of the opening, gently pry it a bit and try for enough to get a sturdy set of needle nose plyers to grip the fold and you may be able to twist the casing out with minimal damage to threads.
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Old 05-15-2005, 07:59 PM   #22
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i know you are going to do whatever your experience level, time frame,and budget will allow regardless of what bitter end DR and myself come to, but don't use antiseize on aluminum heads, it removes enough friction that (if you have your handy-dandy shop manual in hand...) when you torque the spark plugs to the proper specs, you will easily strip the spark plug hole. not every time, but that does happen.

the best way to keep from reaming out spark plug holes on aluminum heads is to change the spark plugs when the engine is cold, as aluminum and steel have different rates of heat transfer and expansion. meaning- when you change the spark plugs hot, it reams out the already cool (for the most part) aluminum head.

good luck, and let us all know how you make out.

and DR---props on this thread not degrading into a "flame war"...seriously
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Old 05-15-2005, 09:22 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodger65
i know you are going to do whatever your experience level, time frame,and budget will allow regardless of what bitter end DR and myself come to, but don't use antiseize on aluminum heads, it removes enough friction that (if you have your handy-dandy shop manual in hand...) when you torque the spark plugs to the proper specs, you will easily strip the spark plug hole. not every time, but that does happen.
If I had a buzzer I'd press it right about now.

If anti-seiz was used this thread wouldnt exist in the first place.

On your reason of not using it - it's far from the truth because when torquing anything friction is your enemy and it needs to be removed the best it can be. When you torque anything of significance for the first time you'll be preached to about using the proper lubricant. For instance the rod bolts from ARP I bought on the current motor I'm building - It came with a page lecturing the buyer to use the supplied 'special forumulated moly lube" for correct torque readings. It's not ordinary molydbenum lube either - as it says. Using any other lube or no lube at all would probably cause rod failure and ruin my engine. You may not realize this until you get into torquing things that really count.
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Old 05-15-2005, 09:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeRida67
If I had a buzzer I'd press it right about now.

If anti-seiz was used this thread wouldnt exist in the first place.

On your reason of not using it - it's far from the truth because when torquing anything friction is your enemy and it needs to be removed the best it can be. When you torque anything of significance for the first time you'll be preached to about using the proper lubricant. For instance the rod bolts from ARP I bought on the current motor I'm building - It came with a page lecturing the buyer to use the supplied 'special forumulated moly lube" for correct torque readings. It's not ordinary molydbenum lube either - as it says. Using any other lube or no lube at all would probably cause rod failure and ruin my engine. You may not realize this until you get into torquing things that really count.


ya know, i just peeked into a shop manual, and they do recommend anti seize, so i will retract my earlier statement. however, i will continue my self-imposed moratorium on antiseize between hard and soft metals based on my own experience. you do it your way and i'll do it mine, and we will present these viewpoints, contrasting or otherwise, for the consumption of the thread starter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DodgeRida67
You may not realize this until you get into torquing things that really count.

i've been torquing "things that count" since you were in diapers, so i'd appreciate it if you didn't assume what i do and don't have experience in... i'm not busting your chops, so there's no reason to be condescending...
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Old 05-16-2005, 03:46 AM   #25
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well when i bought the car a year ago, the shop tried to change my plugs but couldnt get the one out.. they said they didnt want to break it. well i did. The whole spark plug itself IS out, the threads on the plug are NOT. I can see all the way down the hole and the threads with the tip,and also see past that. removing the head is a b*tch and i honestly dont want to do that not only because its a pain but also because im not that experienced enough the know exactly what goes where or what to take off to get it all.

the motor is a stock motor with 180K on it... so what is the easiest option from this point-an ez out with a nut on the end and use a a socket with an extension? i swear that thing seems almost welded in there when i was cranking on it while it still had the spark plug in it.. so idk
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Old 05-16-2005, 03:55 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C c C
well when i bought the car a year ago, the shop tried to change my plugs but couldnt get the one out.. they said they didnt want to break it. well i did. The whole spark plug itself IS out, the threads on the plug are NOT. I can see all the way down the hole and the threads with the tip,and also see past that. removing the head is a b*tch and i honestly dont want to do that not only because its a pain but also because im not that experienced enough the know exactly what goes where or what to take off to get it all.

the motor is a stock motor with 180K on it... so what is the easiest option from this point-an ez out with a nut on the end and use a a socket with an extension? i swear that thing seems almost welded in there when i was cranking on it while it still had the spark plug in it.. so idk

autozone has the ez-outs w/ the nut formed in... you might want to soak it w/ penetrant, though, first...
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Old 05-16-2005, 04:07 PM   #27
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HM. I see, so you snapped the insulator 100% off and out and the only thing that's in that head is the hollow base.

I'm sorry to say this, but your only option is to pull off that head.
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Old 05-16-2005, 04:29 PM   #28
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k if i pull the head off then what do i use to get the hollow threads out?
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Old 05-17-2005, 12:59 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C c C
k if i pull the head off then what do i use to get the hollow threads out?

an ez-out... same thing you'd use w/ the head on, except now you have to try to hold the head from twisting...
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Old 05-17-2005, 01:34 AM   #30
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ARGHHHHHHH
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