Car Forums  

Go Back   Car Forums > Technical Discussions > Repairs & Maintenance
FAQ Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-12-2005, 11:32 AM   #1
JaneiR36
CF Freak
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 701
Those new high mileage oils...

...they any good? You know, the ones they say last up to 15, 20, 25000 miles. Either by Mobil or Quacker skate or whomever......... is it really possible to protect a high mileage vehicle, especially, for that long?

Oil changes are beginning to get to me, especially since I don't really have anywhere to do them without having driven the engine too far for it to not be smolderingly hot! I still don't want to take my vehicle to an oil change place, though, so these high mileage oils are the next option I'm looking into. I'm just a little skeptical still, is all.
JaneiR36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2005, 07:00 PM   #2
Oomba
Banned
 
Oomba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,137
Maybe you should start changing the oil before it starts giving you problems
Oomba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2005, 07:12 PM   #3
72firebird
Banned
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 437
all i have to say about this is oil isnt that hard to change nor is it expensive. so just change it like ever 6000-10000 miles depending on conditions and how you drive it
72firebird is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2005, 07:13 PM   #4
99integra
CF's Florida boy
 
99integra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Piqua, OH
Posts: 6,099
I thought she meant so her car could run smoother
__________________
Current whip: walking
99integra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2005, 07:16 PM   #5
72firebird
Banned
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 437
anyone with a drive way and a basic set of tools can change their oil in the drive way. all you need is a pan to drain into. and a jack if the vehicle is low so you can get to the drain plug easier.
72firebird is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2005, 07:34 PM   #6
SlipKnoT
The Ultimate Maggot
 
SlipKnoT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 1,066
Its actually Mobil 1 5,000 10,000 and 15,000. I would suggest gettting them. They do actually work. My actually has Mobil 1 10,000 in his Alfa Romeo right now, its up to 6,000 miles since the last oil change and its still clean. Besides, in the owners manuel it tells him to chainge the oil every 10-15,000 miles anyway. Those crazy Italians.
__________________
1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo [Projekt Redline]
Mods: Airbox delete w/ K&N cone, hollowed cat, Fidanza short throw.
HOW FAST!?...we'll find out this summer.

SlipKnoT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2005, 08:37 PM   #7
JaneiR36
CF Freak
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 701
wow, SlipKnot, thanks for understanding my question. I'm glad those work, I think I'll try one (I couldn't even IMAGINE paying that much for oil before now, but I just might do it).

I have basic tools but no driveway. Apartment management specifically said no working on cars (please). I'll work on my car in the parking lot, anyway, but I'll be considerate by not jacking up the car which could damage their asphalt (hmm... hope all the oil will drain out? It's a '96 Camry), and by being careful so the oil doesn't spill. But to do this regularly will raise eyebrows and management might become upset.

Again, no driveway = freagin' hot sun. Can't deal with that right now. However it won't be that much better in the winter when it gets COLD! ... I usually appreciate the workout and natural warming up during the winter, but not too often am I in the mood.

So it's just a multitude of circumstances leading me to take this route.

No, I can't change every 6000 - 10000 miles! (regular oil, anyway) I live in Stop-and-Go town USA, I barely drive more than 10 miles at a time. My engine would die so fast I wouldn't know what hit it.

My car does drive like crap because of the neglect, but that's all my fault and I know what to do to fix that.........
JaneiR36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2005, 09:05 PM   #8
72firebird
Banned
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 437
i didnt realize you had those circumstances. i can see how thatd be a bitch to deal with. especialy since i know how apartment managers can be real dicks. but im glad your questions got answered here.
72firebird is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2005, 12:26 AM   #9
BanffAutoSpa_ap
Pants The Ripper
 
BanffAutoSpa_ap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Southern Alberta Likes:Long walks on the beach.....after anal
Posts: 1,510
im still skeptical about all that jibba jabber about letting your oil change go that long, crude is still crude is still crude although the additive packages are getting better and more suited to the vehicles of today, i buy the best oil and still change it b4 5,000 km's no matter what anyone says, basic chemistry shows when one oil molecule starts to break down beacause of heat, contamination, whatever it may be, it starts the chain reaction that will never stop no matter how many times you change the oil, the new motor i put in had it's break in lube for about 200km's then i dropped oil and filter, and ran 10w-30 for 1000km's then dropped oil and filter again, and am still running 10-30 and do the change at about 4,5000km's or if ive been runnin it hard i do it sooner, i only put 2500$ into the motor but i'll be damned if i let that oil ever break down , i understand not everyone can afford this money wise and time wise so do what you gotta do, but the 200,000km 1990 toyota 4runner of my brothers is proof that regular maintenance and clean oil will save you alot of money in the end, you can pull the stick right b4 the oil change and challeng someone to find the level on the stick, most newbs claim it has no oil in it, it's just golden all the time, so do what ya gotta i thought i would just share my opinion.....i know i know opinions are like a-holes everyone has one and they usually stink
__________________
Despite the high cost of living, it remains very popular.
BanffAutoSpa_ap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2005, 05:48 AM   #10
tbaxleyjr
CF Extraordinaire
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Somewhere in the Southeastern U.S.
Posts: 1,067
As far as an engine manufacturer is concerned, the oil change intervals in the owners book are regardless of the oil used.

Most fleet managers such as rental cars and corporate fleets change oil on a 5000 mile interval since they find that milage is optimal for oil life vs manufacturer warranty requirements.

The most important thing here is to change the oil and filter between 3000 and 7000 miles depending on the type of driving you do and what the owners book says and use a good quality oil meeting your cars API service classification and SAE viscosity (current warranty oils are API classification SM for gasoline engines)
tbaxleyjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2005, 06:46 AM   #11
JaneiR36
CF Freak
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 701
In other words, tbax, to you the high mileage oils don't mean squat?
JaneiR36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2005, 05:47 PM   #12
tbaxleyjr
CF Extraordinaire
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Somewhere in the Southeastern U.S.
Posts: 1,067
for a typical American built engine maintained per the manufacturers recommedations stated in the owners manual, the long life oils are a waste of money.

There are applications where a good PAO base oil with good additive package is mandatory - primarily German built engines used in Mercedes and some VW's having 10000 mle drain intervals. At least through 1002-2003 Mercedes used Mobil 1 0-40 as the factory fill oil. Some other engines in high dollar cars use PAO synthetics.

I had a 1990 Buick Skylark 2.5L 4 cyl I drove for 130K miles using regular oil and 4000-5000 mile oil changes, I had a 1994 Ford Areostar 3.0L V-6 I drove for 170K miles. In my cars, I used the brand of oil which was on sale (Texaco, Shell, Mobil, Exxon, etc) when I was buying a case to use. I also used 10W40 in these two cars during summer (our summers are hot in the S.E. US and it did not hurt them a bit.

I have a hard time justifying over $5.00/quart for some of these oils when I can buy Texaco for $1.60/qt or Walmart Supertech (the paperwork says it meets the same API service class and SAE viscosity grades as the name brands for $1.07/quart.

Last edited by tbaxleyjr : 08-13-2005 at 05:51 PM.
tbaxleyjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2005, 11:31 PM   #13
JaneiR36
CF Freak
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 701
Yikes! I feel like I just pissed away $25

Actually, tbax, if you believed the longer protection offered by synthetic oils (which you don't ), the economics actually work out. Not better than the walmart brand, but I buy a 5 qt bottle (....wait a minute, I KNOW it's not a bottle, but that's better than "5 qt gallon" which I was about to say ), anyway, 5 qts of Penzoil, regular, cost $7.77 in walmart, while 5 qts of Mobil 1, the 15,000 mile kind costs 25 bucks. So basically it costs 3x as much and supposedly lasts 5 times as long!... for mileage, anyway.

As for whether or not it actually works, here's what Mobil has to say:

"...Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W-30 fully synthetic motor oil is designed for today's longer service intervals. It provides guaranteed performance and protection for 15,000 miles or one year. Mobil 1 Extended Performance products contain 50 percent more SuperSyn, 37 percent more cleaning agents, and 36 percent more anti-wear additives than Mobil 1."

http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...ilOption2.aspx

(May have to enter your car make and model to view the text I quoted in the link).

On the other hand, I feel like rust and metallic residue sits at the bottom of the oil pan, anyway. It wouldn't be too easy to tell if your oil is working for that long and actually keeping your engine clean? I can't usually tell if an oil change is necessary just by rubbing the oil on the dipstick. It's usually after draining the oil, the heavier stuff sinks to the bottom of the bucket and I can finally tell how bad it is
JaneiR36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2005, 11:44 PM   #14
elchango36
WWJCD
 
elchango36's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Last year @ SIUC
Posts: 2,122
Quote:
Originally Posted by JaneiR36
I can't usually tell if an oil change is necessary just by rubbing the oil on the dipstick. It's usually after draining the oil, the heavier stuff sinks to the bottom of the bucket and I can finally tell how bad it is

Not true, warm up your car before you change the oil, and it will drain like water.
__________________
elchango36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 01:14 AM   #15
JaneiR36
CF Freak
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 701
Quote:
Originally Posted by elchango36
Not true, warm up your car before you change the oil, and it will drain like water.

....


I meant I can't tell if the oil needs to be changed just by dipping in the dip stick and rubbing the oil from that between my fingers to check if it's dirty.
JaneiR36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Forum Jump



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:35 AM.

Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2002 - 2011 Car Forums. All rights reserved.